thomastractorsvc

I had watched that video a couple times on youtube and just that some were still in service, some where for parts and some where just parked and forgotten

Thanks, going stir crazy though but pay now or pay worse latter.

Update, still waiting on parts, did get my door locks.

Wow, thats where all the trucks live! No wonder I cant find any here in Kansas city.

Always wanted an unstyled A with front and rear spokes!

There is older gentleman that lives the next town over, a collector with quite a few different makes and models , has one for sale I looked at last year thought his asking price was to high, this year he has since come down on price, it runs and starts is in over all fairly decent shape, it looked like an older resto maybe 15 years. I know that it is quite a ways but could be worth the trip if you worked a deal for the other one he wants to sell to. http://kansascity.cr...2933683512.html and http://kansascity.cr...2933688612.html

I was told air starters where used for high torque application ( power to weight) and a benefit was it could be used in hazardous areas where fire may be of concern like on generators , ships and chemical/petroleum areas. And of course they don't generate heat the way a electric starters do so they have a longer life and not complex for repair.

only in the mo

Thanks for the great tips, since I am laying around with my foot up I have been making calls and ordering stuff some item still pretty elusive.

Pawel is spot on for the military equipment, it is or was for versatility of transport and convoy security. Years ago if a truck was outfitted with a ring mount it had a soft top and the passenger seat flipped down with a steel tread plate so you could stand on it to fire the mounted weapon. The trucks were unarmored and the operators would sand bag the floor and hood not the best but it worked, the US Army Transportation Museum has a couple of good examples of gun trucks from Vietnam. http://www.transchool.lee.army.mil/Museum/Transportation%20Museum/museum.htm

In Desert Storm and Panama we used the basic truck configuration for the most part from Vietnam with sand bags . In Somalia the threat was little different and wire mesh/chain link fence was attached to frames and slid over the door and window openings because they allowed fresh air in and rocks and debris out. In Iraq and Afghanistan we went from basic Vietnam style armorment to full blown hardened vehicles. We did incorporate "slat armor" from Vietnam initially on the new Strykers vehicles because they would catch RPGs now that has spread on to other vehicles.

I have a hobart 145 mig that I have always used flux core and a hobart ac/dc stick. I have used other migs with and without gas, I have found the hobart 145 by far the easist to use. It did come with the regulator but have never got a bottle. I know what some will say about welding body panels with fluxcore but I have obtained good results with the welder with tacking and welding, I wire brush the tack/welds and typically weld with a wet rag in one hand and keep everything cool. I have also used it to fab up pressure tanks and stuff with good results and no leaks.

Brian

Sent a PM

Brian

I am just looking for the data plate not a transmission at this time.

I would just get new glass, any good glass shop can cut the glass as it is all flat, I am like you on a budget and all the glass for the doors,windshield, vent and back cab glass will cost what the windshield gasket will.

I am holding off until the last minute on the windshield gasket becasue of the price, you never know what you might find.

Rob so the "0" is for overdrive? The TRD 67 is what I have since that is what is on the build sheet, I wonder why on the Mack brochure that transmission was not listed, is it more common in other variations than the B61 so it was more of a custom option?

_{Congratulations with the promotion, I am with you, anything a parent can do to instill respect, responsibility, self reliance, work ethic and "can do" attitude will make a child very successful.}

Superdog

I sent you a PM.

Thanks

B20Mack,

I found most of the trim I needed on ebay, I spoke with the King and he has a bench seat seat which I have since found won't fit (contour cab) and he did not have the glove box. I am trying to hold out on windshield and back glass gasket/molding I think it is very expensive for what it is. I plan on stopping by LMC here in KC and bringing samples of the gaskets and window felt trim I will post what I find. My experience with older equipment is most pieces of that era were dimensionally pretty standardized. I may have to buy some expensive stuff but I am sure I can get some interchange.

Brian

The build sheet says TRD 67 and the sales brochure calls it a TRD 670, I figured it was a factory abbreviation. I am sure it is the right one.

Jamie

USPS for the glove box door and my Dad is driving out from Maine in about three weeks, that seat would fit nice in his truck. Just because I live in the "Show Me" don't me I aint a Damn Yankee!, I retired from the Army at Fort "Lost in the Woods" and I not been able to find my way back east.

Looking for some B Model parts or interchange

passenger seat frame (single seat) with cushions but not required (contour cab)

glove box door

windshield gasket/molding (usable condition)

rear window gasket/molding (usable condition)

data plate for 670 5+2 transmission

door glass felt & channels (usable condition)

Shutter actuator or repair kit (seal dry rotted)

Wanting to purchase ASAP if reasonable priced

Thanks

Rob Thomas

Retrofit Mack B61T Park Brake System.

I own a 1959 B61T Single Axle Tractor, this thread will document my process of retrofitting the rear axle to “Spring Brake” brake chambers. My truck has a single air system with only one air reservoir tank. I will not discuss air brake theory unless it is important to the retrofit.

Disclaimer- Use of this information is at your own RISK and PERIL. Obviously there is a risk of accident, incident and injury this thread is not intended to be the “end all/be all” or an all-inclusive description on retrofitting the brake / parking brake system on an antique truck or other air brake system. All information that I provide is described to the best of my ability and may contain errors or omissions that could result in an accident, incident, injury or death. There is no guarantee of the validity of the information found here or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or adequacy of the content of what is written or posted. Use of information is at your own risk and peril.

Mechanical Ability and Skill

General mechanical understanding of air brake system and general mechanical expertise is required. Common and basic safety considerations and installation processes must be followed. Such as the use of chock blocks, safety glasses, disconnecting of battery and consideration of pressurized air brake system.

If you do not have the required general mechanical understanding of an air brake system, general mechanical expertise that is required, doubt your skills or just prefer to have someone else perform the work, check with a qualified shop and certified mechanic to have the retrofit done.

Parts

There are numerous truck part vendors’ that are available for sourcing the required parts both locally and online. In my location it is easier for me to order online. Whatever your source for parts, confirm that the parts are DOT certified for the application they are to be utilized in.

Parts List

1. "Spring" or "Maxi-Brake" rear brake chambers – two (one for each side) WARNING: NEVER interchange 3.0" (76 mm) stroke actuator components with 2.25" (57 mm) or 2.5" (64 mm) stroke components. WARNING: NEVER interchange spring brake manufacturer’s components, although spring brake manufacturers components look similar performance and stroke may be seriously affected which could result in Injury or Death. +++Before ordering determine the length of stroke of current brake chamber

2. Tee Fitting- two (one front air supply and one for rear air split) one to be mounted under dash one near the rear cross-member, ahead of the rear axle.

3. Rubber Air Lines- two (one for each side) from the tee to the rear brake chambers, Inspect the existing air/lines hoses as now would be a good time to replace if needed.

4. Air line from Tee Fitting to interior cab position at least 3/8” also Air line from valve to air source.

5. Air valve –Push/Pull

6. Misc fittings as required

Next Order Parts and Wait

Good Morning All,

I am currently convalescing from a service connected surgery and since I have a little bit of time on my hands and my wife’s laptop I was hoping to research what is required to change over the brake pods. Develop a list of parts and a straight forward thread that documents the process for the future.

I am no expert on Mack B61s brake systems but I am an ASE certified Medium/ Heavy Truck. Years ago hearing about converting a single air system over to springbrakes without adding a secondary system.

If anyone has done a similar upgrade or familiar with the process I would appreciate comments, pictures, parts used.

Thanks

That is not a recent photo???? Most people here in the "Show Me" state have the same hair style, my lack of hair prevents me from sporting that style look but I always liked it.

My alternator came in today took it out and just like leversole said the generator pulley fit right on. Now I need to locate a 12" 1/2 bolt and a 6 inch piece of black pipe for the bottom mount. I was thinking of pulling the center bolt out of the generator mount and fabing up a piece of angle iron for the rear mount. I will have to see how much the bolt cost.

If I remember, that truck had a broken rear spring on the drivers side? Don't want that coming apart during a parade!

I will just put some JB weld under it and glue it back down, then hold in place with some rusty fencing as a clamp !!!

The left front is missing a spring too, since it has such heavy suspension I was going to have the spring packs redone and softened. I was talking with a place in KC and they can redo at a reasonable price and soften the springs to ride smoother since I am not going to pull anything that wont fit on my 14K, mostly my JD 60.

I just checked the width of mine and it is 9/16 or between 13/14 mm depends where I measure.

I just looked at the gates site and the 21/32 I would is correct since mine are worn.