thomastractorsvc

Did you tape the rubber gasket?

What works best getting ready to shoot some primer than paint, is it best to put the fendors on then paint or leave them off and wrestle them on afterwards and touch them up?

What I remember is truck needs to be marked not for hire and buy fuel sticker if crossing state lines and you need daily inspection sheet

Olive

Gel coat is what you need about $50 for a gallon. Gel coat can be applied with a standard paint gun with primer nozzle (70-80 thousandths) at 40-50 psi or Preval sprayer. Make sure that the catalyzed gelcoat does not set up inside the sprayer. The sprayer needs to be cleaned with acetone before the gel coat gels. The gel time is typically 17 to 20 minutes. Gel coat can be also applied with a brush or a roller.

My father in-law owns a marina/repair and I have help in the past while visting. Not real hard to put on.

Got an email from Scott yesterday, he has sold the B-61

Thanks

So true, I changed the yoke and rod on the old park brake but no luck, plenty of "meat" but no holding power, it is easier to do the spring brake set up then mess around with new shoes and disassembly of the old drum brake, just glazed I am sure, but money and time wise I am sure it would be more, had about $30 in the rod and yoke.

Alright got all the parts

2 30/30 Brake Chambers $58.47 ea (Short Stroke)

2 30” Rubber Brake Hose $10.61 ea

2 32” Rubber Brake Hose $10.86 ea

20 ft 3/8 Air line $1.14 per ft

1 Push Pull Valve with knob new $33.61

Miscellaneous fittings, plugs and tees $21.35

Time about 1.5 hours, probably could have done in about an hour but had to heat the old mounting nuts on the left side chamber.

1. Remove existing chambers and hoses

2. Measure length of old chamber push rods from chamber back to center of yoke, cut new rods to length. (remove yoke leave jam nut on rod and turn until it is close to chamber, this way you can chase the threads if you get a burr after you make the cut)

3. Thread on yoke and adjust to proper length

4. Mount new chambers (watch orientation to keep hose fittings to the inside)

5. Put pins in yoke to slack adjusters, (depending on your brake adjustment may have to adjust slack adjusters)

6. Mount tee fitting for Spring Brake Hoses ( I made a simple bracket to hold the Tee Fitting and welded to the bottom of my hitch plate, keep centered, as not to interfere with drive shaft and/or hoses may not reach)

7. Run air line to cab area to where you will mount your push/pull valve ( I ran mine along the existing copper lines and zipped tied, make sure to keep it away from anything that spins or gets hot)

8. Mark location for valve and mount valve. (the valve will be marked and depending on your valve will require a supply air and the delivery air line to the Spring Brakes, my valve required 1 plug, the back port on my valve is left open for discharge/vent it is not marked)

9. Select air supply line to tee into. (must have a constant air supply at all times, I tee'd in my air pressure gage to this line so I now have Air Pressure Gage and Spring Brake Valve on the same supply line)

10. (Chock wheels) connect all fittings and check for leaks, tighten as required or repair. (check for proper brake adjustment and movement)

Now you are Done, pictures to come see

If I had a tandem I would do the same except instead of using a tee I would buy a R6 or R12 valve for ease of connecting the 4 hoses for the Spring Brakes.

Almost got everything and got my stiches out today wont be long now!

I talked with two of the gentleman before I bought mine back in Febuary, the guy who has three are missing parts or partally torn down, same with the old 1947, the cab is rough shape. The trucks have been for sale for awhile, I wanted to see if I could buy just the one or two but he said he had a deal in the works to sell them all.

i wish thats all I had to do to mine! looks good

Looks good, great job

Hey all posting this for a good guy named Scott, you can check some pictures and contact him via the web site or number posted on the site. the truck and trailers are located in Pittsburgh, KS. The price is right this stuff!

Call Scott 620-231-7282 they can help with loading.

http://kunshektrucking.com/equip.html

Superdog any word on what we talked about? I sent you a PM and have not heard back

Thanks

Yes I am good for now, thanks

For Missouri http://dor.mo.gov/motorv/historic.php the biggest thing if you own an antique truck is your not supposed to pull any trailers or use except for show, you cant drive more than 100 miles away for repairs and limited 1000 miles per year. Just as easy to plate it for weight the same as my 1 ton pickup and then I can drive it anywhere and haul my gooseneck trailer. It does require a state safety inspection but so what it only has to meet safety requirements from 1959.

Haevy Hauler,

Right now hopefully with some basic TLC, fluid changes and replacment of wear items I will be ok, I am looking to add the manuals I alraedy have so I dont have to chase one down when I really need it.

I got an email from the Mack Museum this morning, Don said he could send the operator /service manual but I already have that.

Rob is it true what the ebay auctions say that the TS-442 series covers the B model or it is the same info that is in the manual that comes from the Mack Museum?

Deja vu is always a good layover stop, but at the least you need to vist the parthenon http://www.nashville.gov/parthenon/, theres a hotel across the street from it that has truck parking.

Happy Easter to all

Hatcity, that video was something like I was expecting this morning from my better half, but no luck she said my inlaws are in the next room!

Just read all the jokes and comments, scrolled down to bottom to see who was online and the advertisment at the bottom of the thread is "Join Michelle and tell Barack you're in".

You have out done yourself classic comedy!!!

My condolences to family and friends

I to seen a lot of service manuals on ebay for sale but they all had disclaimers on them about "An online source (NOT our information) suggests that this is applicable for B C DM F MB R & U Models" I would rather spend $60-$70 on my truck then buy a maunal that does not apply.

I have the book from Mack Museum and several Motors Manuals I thought there would be some thing more unique specific that gets in to the "weeds" that covers componet rebuilds.

Help Please

I searched the site and google but nothing is diffinitive, I did see alot of refrence to ebay and the Mack Museum.

My question is -What is the vehicle service shop manual numbers that covers the B series, I have the basic manual from the Mack museum but I find it hard to belive that is all there is for a service manual.

Thanks

Olivetroad I thought the same, in one of the pictures shows a pto on the dash and lever on the floor, looks like it may have had dump on it.