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06 mack ai 427 with jake brake

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ok... be careful.... how I know I am up on #1 TDC. is: the #2 exhaust rocker is "Rocked" .  I always start on #1.  You have ceramic rollers in this engine and if you run the valves wrong and start it, and they 'rattle'.  the lifters will be cracked. When you are confident that you are up on #1 and ready to go, check the bridge lash with (2) .010" feeler gauges first, I took a regular feeler and ground the edges to make a narrow feeler to fit inside the slot in the exhaust yoke. Press down on the yoke and make sure drag is even on both feelers, its tricky, but doable... adjust as needed, the nut torque is 33lbft. use a back-up wrench or adjustable to hold the yoke when torqueing so you dont stress or brake the yoke pin.  ( you should have pinless intake bridges, so this wont be done there) Then you set the engine brake to .045" using the adjuster above the pushrod, leave the .045" feeler in place and set the exh. lash to .024". then intake is .016"... all this is done on the cylinder you are up on. then go to the next cyl. and repeat. you will end on #4.. the other adjuster nuts torque  to 45lbft. the engine needs to be colder than 100 degrees. 

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I almost forgot.... make sure when you 'barr' the engine over that you pull the ratchet towards the oil pan, thats proper rotation, also, if you go past the mark you are to stop on, back the engine up, 30 degrees past the correct mark, then bring it back around to the correct mark. this will take the lash out of the vale train. jojo

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