BrianDzimitrowiczJr

i just looked it up it's September 22 and 23 in Ballston Spa at the Saratoga Fairgrounds

don't qoute me vinny but i think balston spa is in september???

i said the same thing when i seen madrid, ny. it's a ways up there. i might have to talk him into it. i already messed up and missed out on liverpool, and washington county fairgrounds. i've still got balston spa though. that's always a good show with a great lil pub right at the bottom of the hill just outside of the fairgrounds. not that i've ever been there haha. Brian

i could've sworn his golf cart was painted up like his B61?

i've never been to this show. i just might have to go

The B 30 in Cobleskill was owened by my grandfather about 13 years ago or so. it was complete then with all sheetmetal intact. ex concrete truck

40 series trucks are the same as 60 series trucks except for the obvious (engine and trans) except short nose ( 64-67) and concave cabs. all depends on how the truck was spec'd out. front crossmember is different as well as the floor board (depending on transmission) and trans mounts. axles are the same. it's the same truck just with a differant engine and possibly trans. suspension is the same.

I know whoever spec'd my B61 out had specd' it pretty heavy. it has a 29,000 lb. double reduction rear without trailing arms with a 5.17 hogs head. i keep forgetting but i want to measure the the axles out of a smaller rear, say a 23000 because it sure does look like i could swap in a hogs head with a lil more road speed. say a 4.28. idk just my 2 cents

by the looks of all the pics I could go there for a week long vacation and never get bored hahah

this has been covered a few times on here and i know my grandfather has done this swap about.....well..... more than ten times easily. you pretty much need all the mounts and radiator from the diesel truck (ie. front trunion mount crossmember, trans mounts, 72 series trans unless you have a bell housing that will allow you to use the 67 series small box, radiator, throttle linkage, and other odds and ends)

lol i thought we did. i'm gonna have to check out that web site. there were so many trucks there i could have spent the entire day saturday looking at trucks if it didn't get rained out. definitely a good show

if only it was closer. that'd be a great donor truck to repower a B

Red Horse, didn't you have that truck at the the 2012 ATHS show in Springfield Mass? if so i think you were parked a row over from us with it

i looked the other day rob i'm spraying with a 1.4 tip on the SATA. But as far as DBC/DBU/Global are all garbage. the one base coat PPG puts out and it's the cheapest base coat they offer is Omni. great product and it's like a sore pecker, for the price you just can't beat it.

Larry, are you running a brownie box behind your triplex?

nice find vinny but we need a better pic

tops definitely chopped but he did a pretty god job matching the drip rails. first time i ever seen the top chopped on a big truck. the whole concept is definitely an original idea

''A Legend and a Ottawa bum look alot alike Daddy''.... ''blocker, just like fred and Ginger and Lester and Earle....''

out of work bum

I use a 1.7 tip on my clear gun that is gravity. My base gun, is the 92 Sata using a 1.4 tip. It is not HVLP and I like it. It also uses more material than the Accuspray which has a 43 tip in it for clear. I lay it quick and seldom need to do any finish work. It is fast but I can still get around an entire pickup truck without having melt in problems. Four hours later with just the fan running, (no heat) I can start to assemble carefully. I really don't do completes but a side is about as much as I'll handle any longer.

When I had the "SprayBake" booth operational, (for two painting operations simutaneously) I could get a car sprayed in the room and be drinking a Coke before the painter would even be 3/4 finished applying his clear on the same size job. 10 minute flash time between coats in that room works very well @75 degrees. I suppose it's what you get used to.

Rob

i'll have to double check on my tip size now that i think of it. i wanna say it's a 1.2. i know it has a small tip. i've never sprayed in a booth nor has my mentor ( my father is a veteran collision repair/resto man/ metal man of over 30 years and runs his own shop to this day). but i do think that every shop/setup is differant and there aren't two people in this country that use the same exact products. us for example use the same gun for sealer/base/ and clear. we never bake except for a rush job and bake the primer. my dad's from the old school of centari acrylic enamel (Dupont) w/ (siphon feed DeVillibis) that you could clear on top it if you waited about 4-8 hours(preferably 8-12). kinda similar to DCC Concept's four hour wait with a PPG (preferably Concept) clear coat ( BTW my father sprayed a B42T for my grandfather while Maddog13407 (matt has 7 years on me) was still wet behind the ears and it's still holding up decent. It's fading some but for being sprayed almost 30 years ago it doesn't look too bad. To us it's known as #32 and can be seen in the 2003 ATHS yearbook at the National Convention is Syracuse)

Brian

the transtar clear i used Rob was the stuff in a blue can. way to fast for my liking. As far as where we spray is an enclosed room with a side draft fan. I spray with a sata 4000 RP gun with a 1.2 tip. let me tell ya that gun is a hoser but if i keep the fluid in a little tight i get no-buff jobs quite often. I'm a firm believer that a clean paint job comes from the amount of prep work you put into it

We have a chip bank of Spies Hecker at the shop and it does give great matches. I think we are one of the only shops that use it (we only use it on new/very late model vehicles) because the closest support for it is 70 miles away. Concept did change but is still a great paint. The transtar "euro" clear was the only thing i ever used and i used it with spot/panel harder and in my opinion the only thing that hardner would be good for would be motorcycle parts because it's so fast. In my opinion transtar's highend isn't as good of a product as ppgs's low end (omni). it's too fast to do a small car hood for my liking but everbody is different. the Sikkens you talk of i've never heard of and i don't think it's available around my neck of the woods at all. but as far as tape i can't stand any of the 3m. the old vanilla tape was good tape. the new vanilla, green, yellow, blue, etc. i haven't found one i like. i don't care for many 3M products anymore. for tape i use ProGrip. it's cheaper, holds better, and clear won't make it curl up like it does to 3m. plus the 3M tears hard for my liking

why are all the beauties so far away. I think i'd get in trouble if i had a lowboy though, i'd want to bring them all home

I'm not a huge PPG fan myself. But I'm definitely not crazy over any Transtar products either. I think there DBC,DBU, and Global basecoats belong in the garbage. however i do like the omni line as well as the shopline and valupro lines ppg offers. I think PPG has a decent clear coat. however if i was to choose i would use BASF's Limco line or there Glasurit line. Some of the best products on the market and with metallics they boast how it's very difficult to get it to blotch and stripe. But as far as these old Mack's are concerned i think PPG's Concept (high end), Omni MTK Acrylic Urethane, or Limco single stage are great products to use. I think these rust converters make a bigger mess

your correct. now it's dplf. they removed the lead and now it dries much quicker

your best bet would be for me to give you my address and have you ship it up to me. i'll gladly take it off your hands. but if you do wanna use self tapping screws use somethings about 3/8" shank to give it some meat and pre drill