Norway

For sale 1 slightly used (two months) turbo for a Granite CV713. The VIN on the truck 1M2AG11C05M026303 $500 OBO. Buyer to pay for shipping. Thanks Rob

Thanks for the replies. Yes it does go out after the truck warms up as well.

Intermittently when I start my truck I get the lightning bolt and get the following code M128 5003-08. If somebody could help that would be great. Thanks Rob

Finally something changed. Heard air leaking around newly intalled govenor. I replaced the govener and the 1/4" line that runs from the govenor to compressor ( all I had time for had to go to work ) and that fixed it.

Thanks for the reply. Don't think so. It only happens as the system air pressure drops and i'm with in a couple 3 lbs of compressor kick cut in. Like 103 to 105psi. As soon as the compressor cuts in or any other time it's fine. Had truck at the Mack dealer they said that they would have to isolate eack componet and test..... I figured I check in one more time here....

Ok. Haven't solved problem but I did remove the steel line for the air intake and it was gunked up. So I replaced the top of the compressor and It still does it. Didn't mind the investment. The top of compressor was gunked too. However, it won't do it in a parking situation it will tick as your going down road and as the turbo builds pressure it definately gets louder and softer corresponding with turbo pressure. I'm going to look for check valves and air leaks before the air dryier. Any other thoughts ?

Broken spring referring to unloader or turbo... Truck is still running great so I been working it....

Well, started to take off the intake line and that wasn't going to happen on a Sunday when the truck was going to work Monday. It's a PITA to get at so unless I get sone other ideas it's going to stay that way for a while.

Every thing is fine with the system and it builds and holds air great. It was suggested that the compressor unloader is gunked up. I'm going to remove the intake line this weekend and see what the insides look like. Dirty there.... good possibility dirty inside compressor.

Don't think I have a filter. The air comes form the engine driver's side. There is a 1/2" steel tube and 2 silocone hoses to make the connection. Thanks

During the charge / purge cycle I have this problem. Air dryer purges at 120 or so and the truck holds air fine. As you consume air and the pressure drops towards 100, before the beginning of the charge cycle I get a ticking noise. The sound level is directly related to the amount of boost in the turbo. The noise is like when you'd put a baseball card in your bycycle wheel, and the harder you step on the gas the louder the noise gets. As soon as the compressor starts to build pressure the noise goes away. Truck runs fine and I get my full 33 or 35 LBS boost. It's just annoing and I don't believe it's right. I have recently replaced my govenor and put in a "chepo" but new AD-9 drier. The reason I put in the new drier was the old one had some miles, purge valve and desciant had been replaced once and was making the same noise so I just figured I get rid or the problem with a replacement... Not so... Thanks Rob...

Thank you !

On my Granite I found this connector un plugged and would like to plug it back together. I would like to know what it does first. The EPDM module sits on the fire wall in the engine compartment next to steering column. There is an A... B... & C connector. The local Mack guys got me the Legend and the Diagram. The Legend shows A...B & C but the Diagram doesn't Show any of the A... B...or C connections.... Regards Rob

Got it. Fan Clutch. Cap off solinoid top of fire wall... runs fine. Blow air down to fan and you can hear the blow-by.

No on the tag and tailgate. All that is separate, air only, has a cutout at 60 PSI and becomes non functional. I have tried just turning the Ignition switch on, no engine running, but no leaks. UpDate Sunday.. I check the lines from the Governer to the Drier and Tank, their good, Pulled the supply check valve on the Dryer and that is sealing. It does have a groove in it from wear but it does seal. I put in a new Govener and that made no difference. Cheap enough. I double checked and cycling only happens when running. I looked at the Bendix Literature and it should cycle no more than 1 X in 4 minutes.

My Granite looses about 5 PSI per hour. My compressor builds to 120 and the Bendix Air Dryer dumps, (valve on bottom drops). Valve doesn't leak while down. The pressure on the reserve side only, starts to drop, and 30 seconds later there is a puff and the valve pulls up at 110, up and seals tight. The pressure continues to drop to 105. Then the compressor kicks in and builds to 120. The total cycle time is 70 seconds. This happens while parked or driving but with engine running only. If I wait to the Bendix valve to blow at 120 and shut the engine off system holds air fine. At the end of last season I replace both the dryer and bottom valve. Is this the proper operation ? It's fricking annoying for sure.... Thanks Rob

Yes on the shrinkage in the cold and with age I've been getting some leakage too... Should have realized to check the plumbing ! On another note... where is the spell check when writing in ?... My spelling stinks ! Regards Rob

Thanks for the info. I can't get to it right away but that seems to be the problem. I'll end up changing all those hoses on that line. I've been slowly replacing all soft lines a little at a time. Regards Rob

That black tube in the circle is the wireing harness. Air compressor is below this area. However the info about the aircompressor line is great. I will look at that hose anyway. There are some burried items on the engine and unless pointed out you'd never know... Rob

No hose clamps. I do most of the general mechanics on truck and she really tight. I'm concerned that it could have puked out the head gasket or from under the injector ? Are there any bolts for the injector or anything else that pass thru coolant up front on passenger side ? Is there a weep hole on the water pump ? Could that have migrated around the corner ? Rob

I usually keep truck my truck indoors and the heat is set to 45. A couple weeks ago I had to leave outside. We had a cold snap, it went a few degrees below zero for a couple nights. I went to check on truck after 3 or 4 days when it warms some ( 20's) and there is a 2" puddle of antifreeze under it. I traced it back to a wet area inder the crome injector shield between the 1st and 2nd injectors. I dried it up and it hasn'n leaked since. We've had some cold and now were back to below zero. After a few days of 30 and 40 degrees weather, I started her up and let it run for a couple hours ( various high rpms ) and no leak ? In the picture where the red circle is is where it was wet and dripped to floor. I couldn't have lost 2 ounces and if it wasn't on a concrete floor I never would have noticed it. I know my antifreeze is correct whth 50 / 50 blend. I'm writing in because I've got no idea where this could have come from on this side of the engine. I'm looking for ideas and imput as to where this could have come from ? Thanks Rob

I usually keep truck my truck indoors and the heat is set to 45. A couple weeks ago I had to leave outside. We had a cold snap, it went a few degrees below zero for a couple nights. I went to check on truck after 3 or 4 days when it warms some ( 20's) and there is a 2" puddle of antifreeze under it. I traced it back to a wet area inder the crome injector shield between the 1st and 2nd injectors. I dried it up and it hasn'n leaked since. We've had some cold and now were back to below zero. After a few days of 30 and 40 degrees weather, I started her up and let it run for a couple hours ( various high rpms ) and no leak ? In the picture where the red circle is is where it was wet and dripped to floor. I couldn't have lost 2 ounces and if it wasn't on a concrete floor I never would have noticed it. I know my antifreeze is correct whth 50 / 50 blend. I'm writing in because I've got no idea where this could have come from on this side of the engine. I'm looking for ideas and imput as to where this could have come from ? Thanks Rob

Relpacing the crossmenber shaft or tube is a big deal.It has the be cut out and a new one pressed in if I recall correctly. Good truck spring shops can do the job.

There is a picture of a transverse rod and bracket in Vlad's post under the " Superliner Frams Rust" Thread.....

Transverse torque rod. They are out there. They also have the potential, over time, to crack the axle. The mack rod goes from the frame to a bracket that bolts around the rear cover. Just outside of the cover you will see flat areas where the bolts would get drilled and tapped for the bracket. I have a 44K rear, no rod, and gross at 77K, I do 90 degree backs all the time gettting into pavers. As far as squirley goes.... I put on 8 new rear tires. they were more lugged than ribbed tires. I won't do that again. For the first 3 or 4 months the rear of the truck was all over the road. I don't do much off road work. In the future I will put on more of a trailer tire than lugged. They also make a poly block that you can put in the spring boxes that will help stiffen up ride. They aren't much more $