Rob

They've always been high priced and I really don't know too many folks whom will use them when the cost is out of pocket expense. I've gotten by for years using the fine thread pitch without problems. 

15 minutes ago, tjc transport said:

or he is senile and forgets what he went out to the truck to do................

Hey!!! I resemble that!

They are called "body bound bolts" if looking around but really only required for absolute precision in location. That being said you actually bore the hole they are to fit a few thousandths undersize and pull them into position with the locking nut on the back side. I always use grade eight flange head capscrews in fine thread for the task of suspension member location and it is close enough, (really). I also always use "nylock" locking nuts so they don't back off through the years. I don't reuse them either although they are marketed to be reusable. I don't support that thought given they retain suspension.

Typically I use Mcmaster-Carr for fasteners with the occasional Lawson Products for specialty fasteners. Fastenal done "screwed the pooch" a single time and I'm not very good at forgetting with the resultant being never a consideration given to them.

Seen more than a few ENDT, and E6 series engine busted through the main saddles, along with snapped crankshafts from being "turned up" and abused. Being way overfueled and latched onto a heavy load with an impatient driver is a recipe for disaster on parts. I feel the 672ci Mack engine is at it's maximum balance of torque and horsepower for reliability when run right at standard 350hp setting with maybe 10% added to the pump calibration.

I've watched Caterpillar engineers with engines in a test cell having strain gauges mounted everywhere measuring block twist under torque loading till failure. The same happens with an engine in a truck only it's not in a controlled atmosphere and the E6 does like to twist as it's a lightweight casting.  

5 hours ago, DanielG said:

That pump adj will do wonders if you do it right, don't go crazy and drive it yourself. RPM's help out as well I have my R set at 2450 but don't tach it out 

 

Rod stretchers at that rpm if the engine heat comes up from a hard pull.

9 hours ago, fxfymn said:

I agree, but $100.00 to protect what should be a very special, if not irreplaceable, truck seems pretty cheap to me.

Kind of off the subject, but I'll never understand how someone can spend six figures to restore a truck, or even $20K for a hobby truck, and then cheap out on protecting it from a fire by not installing a detection system in their storage area and doing whatever they can to prevent a fire in their prized possession. 

No disagreement here at all but it's like a lot of farmers whom purchase a $200K combine to make a living with, and then don't maintain it? Never understood that analogy either but some can't see the forest because of the trees. 

7 minutes ago, ddtruckin said:

Looking to buy NOS outside door handles for a B61 Mack. Must be in very good shape. call 320-295-8187

Used to be available new through the B model store through Watts Mack. Don't know if they are still or not however.

2 hours ago, fxfymn said:

Burned up an R model rescue (and the fire house it was in) from this. That is why I always urge the use of a battery cut off switch at the battery for hobby trucks.

If you are not in a great hurry keep your eye on eBay for welding wire. I have made a couple of good scores there over the years.

These are a good idea but costly for switches that will withstand the inrush current of starting a diesel engine at 12VDC. Cole-Hersee makes good ones and they will be over a hundred for the heavy duty style up to the task long term. 

Really no difference between "battery" cable used in automotive applications from "welding" cable internally except strand count of which welding cable contains finer "strands" within the jacket. This is primarily where the inherent flexibility comes from along with the jacket composition. Most secondary voltage cable like typical battery cable are pvc plastic jacketed where welding cable is always rubber jacketed. It is the same jacket as "SOOW" electrical cable which is tough, yet remains very pliable in colder temperatures. I cannot agree at all on someone stating that automotive type battery cable won't hold up to vibration if it is routed correctly.

Whatever cable is used in the application it needs routed correctly including rubber insulated standoff clamps, and an extra insulator where protrusions through a frame hole, battery box, (as example) or over a sharp edge of a frame rail are encountered. Typically I'll run a short section of automotive "heater hose" clamped to the outside of a cable where it has chance of rubbing on anything for extra precaution either band clamped, or shrink tube anchored so it doesn't move. Battery box enclosure entrances are always grommet lined so no sharp edges.

A primary starting cable shorting someplace is almost always an instant fire so best to not be anything less than as safe as you can make it at the front.

31 minutes ago, hicrop10 said:

Thanks,thinking of going with the 1/0 case it will be easier to get them into the battery boxes.

That will work but they will get a bit warm if a long crank cycle in the colder months. Larger cables are better for this but probably a hobby truck only? If so winter will not be a large player and 1/0 will be fine. I use 2/0 for everything and can start on a single 12V battery till about 35 degrees then one battery just doesn't have enough in it to do the job. No problem with two down to about 15 degree without being warmed up via coolant heater.

12 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

And on my superliner i bought one end which was perfect fit and a divider for dividing the tank so i could put oil in one end.The divider was a perfect snug fit for the tank i had.I amhappy with their services.

I'm really happy too but I delivered my tank and picked it up from them. I was visiting my son so in the area. They vendor the tank end bells but roll the aluminum to correct diameter and do all the welding on site. Pretty impressive operation to see.

2 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

Rob on the Ch i had a tank built for oil and fuel and they had the mack ends in stock.He told me they have them built to the manufactors specs.I was impressed with their work.Plus they have many differnt size ports and breathers that can be installed when built.

When I had mine done last year they did not have the style ends shown in the photo which match mine. The did carry the correct diameter for the application but it did not have the recesses pressed into the shape. This was for my 73 RL-797ST. I had the tank modified for the crane body we spoke of and was sold from under me so not used.

8 minutes ago, hicrop10 said:

Going to replace my cables on my B87.Was wondering if I can use 1/0 cables to go from the batteries to the sps,then use 2/0 cable to go to the starter to handle the 24 volts?I am also thinking about going to a straight 12 volt starter.What are the pros and cons?

That would work alright but I'd go with either 1/0, or 2/0 for everything. I wire everything with 2/0 and good heavy "Burndy", or "Blackburn" connectors with the terminations shrink wrapped w/adhesive type wrap. Absolutely waterproof this way and corrosion is precluded greatly in the crimped area.

As Mr. Akers stated but if you will send Alumitank your end bells which are specific to Mack, they will mount them onto new center sections they will make. it can be a bit costly however to have done. I had one of my 80 gallon tanks like your photo cut down to 50 gallon to allow for clearance of bed outriggers. The tank was damaged on the top from exhaust routing so no loss there.

Probably should mention if converting a starting system from the 12/24VDC series parallel system to a straight 12VDC starting system, you need a "counterclockwise" rotation starter, (CCW). They will be available in both CCW, and CW rotation but if the starter mounts on the lower right side of the engine, (facing the flywheel from the rear) the starter rotation needed is CCW. If the starter mounts to the lower left side of the engine, (facing the flywheel from the rear) the starter needs to be CW rotation. Both scenarios are for an engine that normally rotates to the left when running, a.k.a. standard rotation.

Normally I would just state driver's and passenger sides of the truck but we do have Aussie friends on the board so will be more "correct" in analogy as per "Momma's" suggestions, or more rightly yet, "threats of bodily harm" if I don't straighten up. 

Mack engines only use an 11 tooth starter drive gear no matter the clutch size I've seen through the years on the B, and R model series. 

Rob

On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2017 at 3:34 PM, Red 460 said:

I have a quad box 5x4 Mack and there is a pto on the right front side of tranny where can I get a cover for this I am going to remove the power take off unit my truck is a B77 with a LJ cab can any one have any ideas

I'd be interested in the PTO if you have no need.

Rob

Cat engines like to do that. Hopefully the coolant system has had good care and the liners are not all pitted to hell on the coolant side.

Typically the double frames, (inner rail) stop near the front mount of the fuel tanks just before the "splay" outward of the outer rails. I have however seen trucks with full double frames from front to back but they were 800 series. All of the "Valueliner" series of trucks I've seen have been straight rail trucks. Best I know the "Valueliner" series started after the Hayward, CA plant was shut down and this series is a slightly lessened western built truck.

These observations could be right, wrong, or indifferent but they are what I've seen.

7 minutes ago, Rob said:

Me? "Momma" says I "done gone stupid" several times per day referring to my old age creeping up.

of course I have heard her mutter under her breath, "senial old *uck" referring to me I'm certain. She only thinks I'm deaf in one ear and can't hear out of the other.

53 minutes ago, Lmackattack said:

I have had constant issues after the last major change. I stopped visiting because I found it hard to stay logged in and follow threads I was interested in. I liked the old format much better.

 

Trent

Maybe I missed a couple of changes? I remember the original site of which I favored at the start, then the next upgrade took some getting used to but never had problems after that. This time around I'm on a new desktop computer(s), laptop computer(s), new fangled things called "tablets", and a cell phone which has a lot of capacity I'll never master. Kind of hard for a technology lacking putz such as myself. Have to get my kids, or one of the young'uns at work to show me how to operate some of this stuff I'm saddled with nowadays.

I have an upcoming stint at Midway later in the spring and you, I, and Storkmack will have to get together for lunch or dinner. I'll be staying at my son's in Wheaton as I never miss an opportunity to see the grand daughters.

Rob

1 hour ago, carlotpilot said:

diminished mental capacity              understatement

Me? "Momma" says I "done gone stupid" several times per day referring to my old age creeping up.

Well thanks man; don't really do much of anything credible any longer and tend to blow with the wind or roll with the tide kind of thing. On the hunt looking for that "tranquility" which has avoided us for many  years constantly wondering what that next "step" should, or will be, and try to trek appropriately. Seemingly done alright so far and looking to the next chapter later in the year.

I'll try to stick around and ad something useful if the opportunity presents itself.

Rob

Most I see are just painted. The best thing to do is power wash the area clean to keep the road wash cleared that builds up, holds water, and rots everything in the area. Wash it with the truck and greasing the fifth wheel platter at the same sitting.

Most of the inline six Mack diesel engines I've pulled are right at 1950-2000# when near fully dressed. Pulling from a CF is going to be a challenge without an overhead hoist to not bang anything up during the extraction or install. I use a Gantry Crane with about 14' under hook height. The gantry is about 18' in width so an engine is picked, slid over, then set on a pallet, cradle, or truck bed for the next operation(s). I suppose a forklift with a side shift mast would work also but I've never done it this way. 

I assume you are pulling an EN-707 series engine. If going to a diesel there are a few to avoid in the application like just about any END-711 if staying with Mack. Assuming you want to stay with a Mack engine a good selection would be near any early 70's ENDT-675, ENDT-676, or most any E6 series of the early 80's. If you plan to incorporate air to air CAC, you have a lot more options for power upgrades. Regardless, step up the cooling capacity as you really need to get the heat out of the heads and a heavy multi row radiator core is the way to do it best. Airflow is somewhat impeded in that chassis design so could use help, (IMO).  

6 minutes ago, diggin dirt said:

 it seems my old 676 2 valve is lacking fuel. my puffer valve on front of injector pump is hooked only to intake manifold and not tied in with my brake system like some i have seen.  i rarely see any black smoke from my exhaust.

Should have a shuttle relay valve plumbed into the intake manifold also. I would disconnect and plug the port in the manifold disallowing operation of the unit which only serves to limit fuel rack travel inside the injection pump till boost pressure elevates. If still no smoke from a "Maxidyne" engine with this disconnected, there is either high wear in the plungers/barrels, or the governor is not operating correctly. Both require disassembly of the injection pump to correct. It should smoke like a banshee if the engine is getting enough fuel. Lack of smoke equates to lack of fuel.