Rob

Hi Trent, I was in Chicago last weekend (Cubs game) and tried to reach you but was called back to work shortly after. I'm going to be up there again in a couple of weeks and will call.

Thanks,

Rob

I have a pair of "Guide" headlamp buckets that are complete, (except the male plug) that I removed from an "L" series Mack in 1976 or 1977. These were from my grandpa's truck fleet of many years ago. There are no dents to the body(s) but they could use some "dings" repaired and a rechrome to the bezels. I can forward pictures if need be.

I prefer to not sell these but would rather trade them to someone that has a legitiment need for a restoration. Hopefully this can happen.

One thing I do need besides leaf springs as posted earlier, is a complete driveshaft assy with 1700 series u-joints for a B model. The truck we are working with for my daughter has a driveshaft modified for a Roadranger transmission, and I would like to keep it as is.

Thanks,

Rob

309-245-2070 (eves)

I have both a B-61 and a B-62. The only difference I can tell between the two trucks (cab wise) are the dash panel in the B-62 (gas powered) is there is no tachometer. There is no hole for one either. All else is the same with the exception of some minor wiring issues.

Rob

We use Akzo-Nobel products. U-Tec is the brand of epoxy primer/sealers we use as there are four different colors available. We also use a non induction time activator. This product costs about $80.00 for a gallon of epoxy, and $35.00 for a quart of activator. I don't readily recall the numbers for the products, but any good paint vendor will be able to help you no matter what the brand. I can't stress enough the benefit to using an acid etch before you apply any undercoating to bare steel. The adhesion enhancement is well worth the cost, even if you use a direct to metal primer.

Rob

Hi David. Primers and other undercoats were never meant to be exposed to the elements for any period of time. Most are porous, (hence the rust coming back through) and UV radiation further breaks them down chemically. Prime coats, (both surfacers and sealers) are meant to be topcoated before exposure to any elements. With nearly 50% exposed bare steel, and the remaining original paint film thickness reduced by prior sanding, I would highly reccomend that you have the remaining paint removed as the surface integrity has been compromised. After thorough preparation, and cleaning, a phosphoric acid based "wash primer" could be applied to the bare substrate. This would be followed by a double coating of an epoxy primer/sealer. Epoxy primer/sealers are not waterproof either but if the vehicle stays inside as you work with it, many years will pass before you have problems again.

Clearcoats are made to bind themselves to a compatible basecoat color. Undercoats are not compatible with clearcoats as the chemical structure is different. I would not spend youR money for clear and activator until you are ready to apply final color.

We use a lot of epoxy in the shop as it has worked well many years for us.

Rob

This is along my level of knowlege, but I need more information as to how much bare metal is showing, what grit of sandscratch are you trying to work with, what your final topcoat will be, and what your budget will allow etc.

Rob

I have one of these engines, with Jakes (which I've never driven) and was wondering if this engine is a good candidate for my daughter's B61 project. The truck has a double over tri-plex trans with a 4.25 rear, on 22 inch rubber. I would like input from persons with experience both from the driver's seat, and maintenance personell, with this series of engine. It is a two valve head edition, and is a 1982 model year from a WS series Mack. It does run well, (on a stand) but I have not actually driven it.

I'm looking for good, usable, and unbiased input before I "freshen" this motor up prior to installation into the chassis. Please include any pros, and cons, to the issue.

Thanks for your time.

Regards;

Rob Swallows

New site looks good to me. You've done a "Great Job" with your commitment of time to foster and develop this venture.

Rob

Hello everyone and welcome to the NEW BigMackTrucks.com!  My name is Barry and I work at Watt's Mack Sales, Inc. in New Alexandria, PA.  I have been a heavy duty Parts Specialist for 12 years and I am Mack and ASE certified.  I also specialize in Antique and Classic Mack Parts...such as B-Models, R-Models, DM/U Models and Superliners! 

I am the webmaster of this site and I will be glad to help with any truck related issues and anything to do with this forum!  So enjoy!  I hope everyone like the new site and I look forward to hearing your feedback!

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