Rob

Sure. This one hasn't been too bad once deciding to wholesale gut and rewire rather than try to piecemeal repairs. It's a really nice lift.

8 minutes ago, SkippyMack said:

No kidding!  Thanks for the info.

Fasser was the last name of the parties. They lived right off of I-91 in the general area. Never was there myself but "Kurt" went home often. 

They make masks look like that to treat or mitigate symptoms to the best of their ability two afflictions of Asian origination:

One Hung Lo, and Ugh Fucking Lee

Both terrible in their own right.

Rode my manlift all the way up, down, and all around today with the freshly rewound coils, and restrung wiring in the engine compartment. All worked as supposed to now. Haven't begun to "tidy" anything up as of yet as wanted to prove all functions prior to possibly inducing additional failure points. All operations are very smooth in engagement and variable speed with the proportional controls working correctly.

I should have the cylinder rebuild kits for the 8" bore main lift cylinder, and 3.5" slave leveling cylinder on Monday. I'll then pull the cylinders from the lift and send them in for rebuild. That will take care of the hydraulic oil leaks and I'll be able to keep a clean shop floor again. Right now this is one oil puking pig when lowering the main boom as it sprays oil out of the rod seal and gland. I'll be happy to have that stopped.

Mine stated: "Dyslexics Untie"!

I was in the Navy with a guy whom worked there a short while and was let go in 1983. His father worked there also and if I remember correctly they were preparing to shut down in that timeframe.

I run Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 diesel oil in the Mack diesels, and Chevron Delo 400 30W in the Detroit Diesels which are two stroke.

Never any problems with either over the years.

Mobil Delvac 1300 is another good oil to consider.

The ARD-238 didn't come out till the 1984 model year. Not saying it hasn't been changed over the years however. Neway parts of this series are not difficult to source but not through Mack.

Your news media at work again is the problem here.

Mine are all black in three trucks. Never have seen colors in this application but what transmission do you have? Think I have air diagrams for all.

Rob

12 hours ago, tjc transport said:

we used to make acetylene bombs on the farm.

get a condom. fire up the cutting torch and snuff it out. put the condom over the torch tip and fill it up. tie it off. hand on the wall, and light it with a cigarette on the end of a stick.

one day we decided to go big. got filled a bunch of condoms. a dozen or so. put them in a big black trash bag and filled that up too. tied it off on the back of the barn. 

got a long pole and taped a lit cigarette to it, and hiding around the corner, lit it off. 

blew the back wall off the barn, blew out every window in a 1/4 mile radius, and got the crap kicked out of us by the parents, and cops. 

 

we had some good times as kids on the farm, but it is a wonder we are still alive to talk about it!!

Try it with a 2 liter soda bottle and use wide masking tape for a wick. Cheap noisemaker guaranteed to garner attention.

I personally guarantee you can move a 20" truck tire mounted to a steel Budd rim more than 25ft using only acetylene gas, oxygen, a five gallon bucket, and masking tape for a wick.

My only advice on such matters is to be nowhere around once the move commences because I cannot guarantee the directions the tire assembly will choose for relocation.

I've been using a 2K paint by "Diamond-Vogle" out of IA but they have a store in Peoria. About $125.00 a sprayable gallon and it is a very nice coating. I took original panels in and they have tinted Mack red, green, yellow, white, and of course black. All are stored on file so easily intermixed again.

1 minute ago, Freightrain said:

Ok, wondering if you were getting into something else to keep yourself busy and out of mommas way?

I see words and all I hear in my mind is Charlie Browns teacher..............waa waa waa waaaa waa wa.   LOL!!   Though I do understand basics, fancy electronics are a touch out of my pay grade.

 

So with the variable control it won't be like the cheesy rentals I've dealt with and their herky-jerky motion as you bump the button to move just a little bit and get throw a foot?  Working in the shop, at under 25 ft I'm okay.  Outside was different since the lift didn't get up high enough and I was stretching out of the basket to reach up and get to the light I was trying to replace.  Ugh.  I gave up quickly.  Screw that, I'm not getting paid enough and no fall protection either!

There is a big difference between proportional control, and solenoid control. Proportional is very linear if set up correctly. Solenoid control is "all or nothing" by nature although some are dampened to lessen the severity of engagement.

1 hour ago, alex g said:

Good job...were lucky you use your knowledge for good instead of evil. 😉👍

You knew about the propane fueled explosive noisemaker I threw into the basement of the eightplex apartment complex when I was 10? That sucker was LOUD!!!

I had to Get the *uck Outta Dodge with that one cause I heard sirens coming.

2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Sounds like a good reach, I  have known armature winders that havent understood the difference between winding a DC coil and a AC coil and it has taken them a few goes before the believe me that they are wound different 

Grear work 

 

Paul

Yes Paul, there are differences but not too much until frequency increases. Usually low power coils used at 50, and 60 cps are pretty much the same but when you get up into the HF frequency band and above, the impedance of the circuit becomes something that has to be overcome.  Hysteresis, Eddy Currents, and other parasitic loading in a magnetic circuit are fairly easy balanced with an RC network incorporated. ELI the ICE man comes into play here dependent upon application.

These coils are simple and set up a magnetic field through a square wave generator controlled by a varistor to pull a plunger a certain distance to allow hydraulic fluid bleed which regulates output flow from a hydraulic path. Being pressure compensated by design, the amount of hydraulic force remains constant, but flow, (speed) is varied whether driving the wheel motors, or actuating a boom function in this application.

Friend of mine had this since new in his overhead door business of which I had awarded a lot of contracts for. He passed early last year and I told the family I would like to have the lift when they were ready to execute the will. Once they discovered the relationship between myself and the deceased, it was given to me and I'm helping them liquidate other assets as they have no idea to values.

No real need other than a couple panels have blown off my building up high so this will make it much easier to replace them. I've known the electrical condition for many years so knew what I was getting into up front. However, they cannot locate the original manuals for the machine and near everything is long obsolete.

Heights don't really bother me too much. I've rode a lot of 120' lifts to install accelerometers onto antenna supports to isolate vibration issues over the years and as long as the wind is calm, it's not too bad.

I figure this lift would easily allow peeping into second floor bedroom windows at night should that ever be taken up as a hobby too.....

Thanks Paul. Most likely the compression type crimp applied to the wire terminations prior to being encapsulated in the molding. I cut the end off the cord and will replace it with a quality receptacle and be done with it. The wire terminations looked good on the back side of the hood but those are properly tinned and environmentally sealed which I'd done years ago. I did not see any degradation to the terminations but it's nice to rule that out.

Measuring from spade to spade in the connector on the truck is right at 9.5 ohms which computes to 1.5kw resistive closely with 120VAC applied. A 12AWG extension cord at 25' should be more than adequate to support this amperage draw. I have several cord grip receptacle ends in the shop being "Hubble", and "Woodhead", but both are too large in circumference to fit into the recess of the heater receptacle, (go figure) so I must purchase additional.....

Attaching new leads onto the 28AWG coil wire. The friction tape is some "gummy" crap to work with:

Specification calls for 20.5, to 23.5 ohm resistance to operate the proportional controller. I hand wound 364' onto this bobbin to attain this reading:

55 minutes ago, jim1305 said:

i am doing a tune up on the truck & need to know what to set the points at ?

I set mine at .017 for a 30 degree dwell angle.