hillconst1

This sounds like a timing or fuel starved pump problem. If the pump was rebuilt I would not touch it. If the pump is set to factory specs this tractor should push its ass off. Mine would spin the tracks or push in second gear always and the pump was set stock. I did however have a problem just as you describe and checked everthing and it turned out to be a collapsing fuel line. Have you checked to see if it will turn up to 1300 rpm under no load? If it will and has no power it probably is fuel, governor, or timing preventing the machine from producing power. As far as the retired Cat guy, even the best make mistakes I would have the timing checked again. I would check everything before I touched the pump and then I would take back and have it tested at the injection shop. If you have other problems turning up the fuel is only going to wind up cooking a $30,000 engine.

Hey thanks for the reply. I really would like to find a set of top sections for my truck. My problem is my truck has a very decent solid panel aluminum hood that was made by someone with good skills and it fits the truck nicely. However it does not have the raised bead running the length of top section to match the bead on the cab and doors. This wouldn't be a problem except the paint scheme I wanted to use called for the bead to be a separate color and if I tape and paint the hood to match the bead it will stand out like a sore thumb. I realize beggars can't be choosers when it comes to rare 60 year old sheet metal but I sure would appreciate any parts help or suggestions on my problem.

Thanks

Nathan

Hey, great pics and drawing, thanks for your help!

Nathan

Does anyone have a LTL hood for sale?

Thanks

I've got a '52 LTL

Inside or outside dimensions?

Outside of the box and outside of the lid would be fine. I have to make a set from scratch.

Thanks for the help.

Great info, Thanks for the help.

Would anyone with a LT or LTL be willing to post a few good pics of the battery box and give the basic dimensions? I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for the help,

Nathan

Does anyone know what tools if any would have been provided from the factory with a '49 LTL?

Thanks

A twelve speed is as good as the old two stick six speed but it gives you closer ratios for use with high hp engines that don't have the torque curve of the 237's and 300's. As far as the hi-split to low split grind I found the only thing that worked for me was to pre-select the split right before I moved the shifter and keep tension on the shifter against the far side of the pattern as I moved the lever into 5th gear and for some reason it hardly made a sound. Why, I haven't got a friggin clue I discovered it by accident. This transmission works great behind an E9.

Do any of you guys know if the durability of the engines in the equipment is better than the truck engines?

Do any of you guys know if the durability of the engines in the equipment is better than the truck engines?

The engines in the trucks are very reliable especially the older mechanical ones. They are fairly easy to work on with individual heads. I bought an A35 not to long ago from a major local corp. The truck had 11,000hrs on it and looked like new. The head "mechanic" said it was missing due to piston problems and because of its age, 1992, they weren't going to spend any more money on it. They had just put 4 new tires on it! So I bought the truck for a little less than the cost of tires brought it home found the missing cyl. and had the injector tested. The injector was stopped up. I put an injector in it and the truck ran perfect. I sold it soon after, this is why you only trust half of what you see and none of what you hear.

That's what I had always heard about them. I wasn't sure of the cost on their equipment though. It seems like the majority of the equipment used around here on local projects is Volvo.

As far as the trucks go you are paying for what you get. They usually price out higher than Cat (Is that possible? ) but are well worth the difference.

Have any of you guys owned or operated any Volvo Construction Equipment?

Volvo makes the finest articulated truck hands down. They are smoother, quieter, and more powerful than anything else on the market today. The loaders are pretty good too. I haven't had any experiance with any of their other equipment.

The D8K I had was still the sweetest operating machine I have ever ran. I tried many times to stall the tracks in 2nd gear, but unless you had a stump or a log under them they either spun or it PUSHED! It had a twin tilt angle blade and I had a KG blade for it. I still miss that tractor.

Brian,

They are brand new 1200R24 BRIDGESTONE tires,tubes,flaps and new rims. I would take $5500.00 for all.

Thanks,

Nathan

804-357-7250 Lv message if no answer

I have 10 brand new 1200r24's and 10 brand new rims if interested 804-357-7250.

Let me get the brand and get back with you, I think they are Generals and they are medium lug tread.

my b613 had a trq7220 and 7.49's on 10.00x20's and would run about 53 to 55 on the floor.

I have 10 brand new 1200r24's and 10 brand new rims if interested 804-357-7250.

Sure sounds like a 12 speed, shift 1-5 and split each gear, use low hole on dash in low gear only shifter will lock into left side of pattern when compound shifts so that deep reduction can only be used in low gear, flip switch on dash to release shifter and return to direct. My 12 speed in my '88 didn't like splitting 4th and 5th either but if you split in neutral instead of preselecting the shift it helped sometimes to keep it from dragging. I assume there is some way to fix this but I never worried about it because I was finally able to make it sync myself with some practice. Also TRTXL1070A used two sticks and a TRTXL1070B used the air shift dash switch.

What is the difference between a B80 and a B86? Did a B86 have an engine other than a 707? Just curious.

From your description of the engine you have an ENDT865B if "Dynatard" equipt. No matter with the problem you're experiencing. I assume you do not have a hand primer pump also. This engine is a bitch to get stated after running out of fuel. I get picked on constantly because my own experience ensures it. The brutal SOB's on here always pick on me...........

Actually it is not hard to get started. Ensure your filters are full with fuel. Close the fuel crossover valve on one tank. Have a helper place a blow gun and air line from a shop compressor into the fuel tank with the pickup tube sealing around the blow gun with a shop rag. While cranking the engine pressurize the tank and it should start.

That engine with the "V" pump does not draw well through the length of line it has to. You probably should ensure you have good fuel lines and nothing is busted allowing air to enter. Even with a small leak the engine with the pressurized fuel tank should start. When running look for wet spots on the lines.

I have three V8's and none of them start easy when they've lost their prime, (sorta like me).

Rob

My E9 had a v pump on it and was hell to start when the fuel drained down. The blow gun and rag work as good as anything and will sure save a starter.

My R608F is coming along nicely. We replaced the floor panels, mat, pedals and broken glass. Running it around the other day, it died like it was out of gas (although I had just put in 26 gallons and hadn't run it much more than 3 or 4 minutes at a time a couple of times since). I got if off the road, put a few gallons in and it started up fine. About 30 seconds later it died. I replaced the stratoflex fuel lines to both large secondary filters by the rear axle and the small paper filter in the bowl on the engine. When I fired it up, it ran like a top but after 3 or 4 minutes, it died again. I checked the filters and all are good and clean. When I loosen the screw on the bottom of the bowl, I get pressurized fuel from the top of the filter cup.

I haven't had a second person around to spin the engine while I check for spark. I was wondering what the collective experience would be with reliability of the coils or symptoms of a bad coil. The caps and rotors are excellent. Wires are good. I find it hard to believe with dual ignition that both coils are bad at once but then again strange things happen. If it is the coil, does anyone know where I can get them? They are big Delco Remy coils with built in cooling fins. Go easy on me, this is my first big gasser.

Coils can be very strange animals. What you are describing sounds like a bad coil. It will start cold but will not run when the coil gets hot. You stop and fiddle with something and the coil cools off and then it will start but only run until it gets hot again. As far as both coils going bad at once that would be very odd, however if this truck has been sitting for a while one coil may have been completely bad to start with and if you had dual ignition engaged you would not know this because the engine would still start. I am not familiar with dual ignition but if you can switch to either side you want, from a cold start see if the truck will start on each coil and they may show one coil as completely dead. Anyway this is just from personal experiance and only a suggestion.

Are trip and fuel permits required when traveling out of state with a truck that has historical/antique tags? I live in VA and was wondering if I needed to purchase them to travel out of state.

B733 had the 262 Cummins,the extra 3 indicates a turbocharged engine

B77 had the NHRS Supercharged Cummins

B773 had the 335 Cummins

How about the B79?

Thanks

The first 335 was a 743 engine. Not many around any more but it was in the years of the B models. The way to tell is if it has lines on the out side of the head to the injectors like the 220 and 262 then it will be a 5 1/8 bore engine with piston oil coolers. glenn

What is the difference between a 262 and a 335 in 743ci form, fuel only or something else?