MACKS

13 hours ago, Rob said:

You knew about the propane fueled explosive noisemaker I threw into the basement of the eightplex apartment complex when I was 10? That sucker was LOUD!!!

I had to Get the *uck Outta Dodge with that one cause I heard sirens coming.

Lol we had one of those back on the farm to keep the black birds away, loud is an understatement..lol

Yup she saw you all right..lol

11 hours ago, storkmack said:

We unfortunately have a granite with dual exhaust.   I will get you the VIN and order what you need.  

Why unfortunately,if don’t mind me asking?

Every truck I owned lost its heat after idling a while in cold temps but you should reach operating temp when driving empty or loaded..

I run them front and back,got over 55,000 miles out of the last set,that’s pretty darn good on a dump doing asphalt and construction work..

Those tires are pretty tall for an 11.00,I’ve been running cooper road masters @ 12.00 24.5 on my dump truck,no complaints..

36 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

And dont cut the old wear ring off with a chisel

Just heat it up a little and it will slide right off same to install..

9 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

I remember when the clutch brake was made up with two of those fiber disc and a metal disc with two tangs on the inside and the metal disc was in the middle of the fiber.If the flywheel was ground too much you used three of the fiber.

Yup there used to take up space for what ever reason the bearing won't hit the brake,they come in different thickness..

So I installed the disc today, cut like they recommended 1.5 on the inside and 2" on the outside kinda of a bitch to get it on the shaft but once it snapped in place all was good,did a minor adjustment internally and it works perfect,I can't see it coming off so it should be a long term fix,time will tell..

50 minutes ago, fjh said:

I've seen those used before I have no experience with them though  Let us know how it goes! I would use it on the front side as yours looks quite worn!

Won't get to this till next week,I will definitely report back,should work if it stays on the shaft..

So I'm gonna try this,what do I have to lose,I ordered two spacers one is 1/8 inch and one a little thicker,throwout bearing is barley touching the brake now one of these should do the trick,hopefully it stays on the shaft..

4 minutes ago, MACKS said:

They are a little pricy and I read a few reviews that said the bits won't even scratch the hardned steel of the brake,have you used one?

Ok sorry I see you said you never used it..

19 hours ago, Swishy said:

nevr evr used this set up

https://www.trucksales.com.au/editorial/details/advice-clutch-brakes-explained-116522/

 

cya

They are a little pricy and I read a few reviews that said the bits won't even scratch the hardned steel of the brake,have you used one?

27 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Yes not sure why, but everything new ( clutch, transmission ) and gap was too big.  I used an Eaton two piece and a torque limiting ..... Worked fine.  I'm sure something was mismatched, I know I put a new Eaton 7 spring clutch in it as opposed to  the K+ for a 9 spring

Ok. Thanks for the info..

9 minutes ago, Mark T said:

I did it on a 107 once after installing a new clutch.

Did what went with two clutch brakes?

17 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Air chisel with long bit, then a die grinder to cut through the stainless ring that's inside the brake.  If someone had two in there ?   you might need something to take up space. Remember  the more you turn the adjusting ring on the clutch cover the less holding force you have.

Yup might just put another hinged brake in front of that one and see if it lasts this time,you can see in the picture it's not very thick,maybe half of what the hinged type is..

8 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

I dont know what trans you have but if its a mack trans it may have a front seal and you can burn it with a torch

It's a mack 12 speed,so how to remove it,will the slotted socket method work,should break since it a hardened steel I would think? Maybe an air chisel with a long bit?

The brake that in there now appears to be worn out on one side anyway,I tried to adjust the linkage to hit the the brake but no luck,if I had new brake in there it would be perfect where it's set now,got to get that old one out first,is torch the only way,saw a vid where a guy cut slots in a deep impact socket he used an extension and braker bar and broke it in half,not sure if the it was a one piece or a hinged,mine is a one piece,think that would work?

Well to answer my own question I'm gonna see if I can adjust the clutch to work with the one original brake,having two in there makes no sense and probably why it failed and I should mention this the second one that broke in less than a year..

15 minutes ago, fjh said:

That is the original clutch brake  the other one that fell out was an add on! I hope you have some one holding the clutch part way down you don't have much clutch gap there!

Yes had the pedal to the floor so I could get a better picture,what should I do take that out or leave it,I had a clutch installed a few years ago,why would they leave that in there?looks pretty flimsy compared to the hinged one that was in there with it..

So for some reason my hinged clutch brake fell apart,after getting it out I notice what looks like another disc on the shaft,is this supposed to be there or is  it an brake or a spacer?

Looks like fun but really 150,000 pounds?

9 minutes ago, 1wonton said:

What rims would I use for the 12.00R tire?

Same rim as the 11.00

9 hours ago, R.E.D said:

Macktechnician's contributions won't be forgotten.his numerous post with attention to detail will continue helping Mack owners stay on the road for ages to come.Hopefully the right people will come to sense and let him back, if he so wishes of course.

Thank you sir.

Red

What he's been banned from the site,WTF..

Yeah,come for a ride in my cl with 58 rears and then you'll think your truck rides like an old caddy..lol