jakebrake86

I was thinking congratulations to the seller for that kind of money!

Man, I know it. I'm sorry. The wife's got an iPad but I've never used the dang thing. I did this off my iPhone and even tried to anticipate which way they were going to get turned, and tried to edit them so they would come out straight, but it didn't work, obviously. Even being generation x'er, I'm better at working on old iron than I am at computers.

I have had to tug on them to get a little slack before. Try pulling your speedo and tach panel loose. I can't remember, but you may be able to peek in from behind the tach and see what's hanging you up.

The oil psi sender is behind the speedo/tach in an aluminum block. The #4 line off the filter base runs through the cowl/firewall to this block then to the gauge. BTW, unplugging the coolant level sensor will activate the alarm. When the coolant resivior/tank is full the coolant completes the circuit, by unplugging it you open the circuit causing the kysor module to think the coolant is low. More often that not the coolant level sensor is the problem, scale builds on the coolant probe insulating it.

Turckster, you were right. The low water sensor in the reservoir fixed it. After you told me that, I unplugged it and jumped it with a wire, and the light went off. Do I replaced it and everything is working like it should now. Thank you very much. MACKS, try unplugging yours and jumping it. I bet it will solve your problems, too.

They're not that hard to change. The oil line screws off the back of the gauge and the water temp should be electric, so there's only 4 wires to take off with a 5/16" or 3/8" nut driver, unless it's a manual sending unit, in which case you have to start at the water manifold and work backwards to the dash. If I can do it, anybody can. Your dash looks good. I'm a fan of keeping them original for the most part, but what you did looks just as nice.

Happy birthday, my friend!

Our county got a surplus D7 just like it but with a cab a few months ago. Are they G's or F's? I can't tell them apart.

What engine would a 785 have?

Yes it is the shutdown light. Thank you, Turckster. That explains a lot. I assumed if the low coolant sensor was unplugged, the light would go off. I'll check that next and let y'all know if it fixed it. Thanks again!

I'm with you, I like the looks of my R model much better than my RD, but I'm afraid it's more trouble than it's worth to change it over. It is for me, anyhow.

I usually wrap a couple of fan belts together and loop it under the hub, then pull it off. It works best with two people.

Would a '59 model be direct drive or powershift? I'd like to own an old 955 or 977 one day.

I have a '96 RD688S with a manual E7 350. The warning light that goes off for low oil pressure, low water level, or high water temperature has started going off for no apparent reason, and it usually only stays on for a few minutes before going back off. I unplugged the low water sensor in the reservoir, to no avail. I replaced the high water Kysor alarmastat on the back of the water manifold. Still going off. I'm guessing the oil pressure sending unit must be going out. My question is, does the light get its electrical feed from the oil pressure gauge itself, or is there an electronic sending unit on the motor somewhere? The gauge is manual and fed by an oil line off the oil filter base.

Mueller? Yes sir, it almost burned down a couple of years ago but it's back up and running again.

Wynne, Arkansas

Congratulations!

Why not use a 453 or 471?

I remember my dad having a Valueliner with an air starter but I don't remember how it worked. Was the ignition switch essentially a valve or did it activate an electric over air solenoid?

As simple as it sounds, do you have a piece of hose on the drain sticking through the firewall? I didn't for a while and had the same problem.

If ranchhopper needs the fuse cover, that's fine. I'm not in bad need of one.