phildirt

Is there a Service Bulletin on the setup and adjustment for the hood and front end for the SuperLiner II's?

If anybody has one, could we get it posted?

Thanks

The wiring diagram for series/ parallel is in the wiki section of this site:

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/tutorials/category/2-antique-classic-mack-info/?prune_day=100&sort_by=asc&sort_key=title&article_filter=all&st=60

Don't need to make it harder than it already is---

The door handle and the window crank both come apart the same- there are 2 rings between the handle and the inner door panel. Push the one the closest to the handle in (toward the door panel) and push the pin out with a punch. If it doesn't go easy, go the other way- should not need to pound it out.

I find it much easier to remove the window/ latch assembly it you take the inner window trim piece off and remove the vent window.

Wiki section on this site has the wiring diagrams for SuperLiners.

Replace the dimmer switch first. Get a new 30 amp circut breaker- first one on the left in "glove box"- may seem to work but will get weaker every time it opens.

The R model wiring diagrams are posted in the wiki section of this web site- R-Model Wiring Diagram -

It is a good place to start.

The tachometer is mechanical.

Information on winter fronts:

E9 was designed with 180^o thermostat, for shutterless operations.

Remove the top cover on the dash over the speedometer/ tachometer instrument cluster and work from above. You may have to remove the speedometer and tachometer cable to get enough clearance. There is a clevis, pin and cotter pin.

Remove those three and with the clevis unscrewed you can slide the cable out thru the boot.

Even from above you will need long fingers, small hands or both.

Here is a scan of the Mack Service Bulletin (SB-668-008)

It shows the height and method.

cab height adjustment.pdf

Here is the enhanced wiring diagram for both the 12 and 24 volts starter systems in the RW's

rw 613 enhanced wiring diagram.pdf

I'm glad that somebody that wasn't there knows more than the A/C tech that rebuilt my system. It took about 5.5 pounds to refill when the whole system (including the Able sleeper) was recharged.

Mine took 8 ounces of oil and 4 pounds of 134A.

I checked- they won't fit------

In the Wiki section of this site (page 5) there is a typical wiring diagram for the R (including the RW) series of trucks. It will give you the basics.

Buy a Power Probe Hook. It was invented by a guy trouble shooting the wiring in a SuperLiner.

These E-9 manifold bolts are really miseralbe.

Probably time/ money ahead to pull the 2 heads, as one unit, separate the manifolds at the joint and set them up on a mill table. Be ready for a complete shock if you order the bolts Mack sells for this application- around $20 per bolt.

That's easy- just take it from your keyboard:

$

You just won't have the "fresh air" coming in. It will still work just as it does now- nothing to brag aboout but better than a B 75.

Normally that vent opens only when the heater is in the "maximum" posiiton. I never could see much difference. Not worth nearly that much.

Can be either an air or an air/ electric cylinder. Mack wants about $450 for a new one last time I looked. Plug off the air line and happy motoring.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Anybody know where Morse Mack dealersip was located? c. 1986.

Thanks

National Pike show is August 8, 9, 10, 2014. It is about 5 miles west of Brownsville, PA, just off the Old National Pike (PA route 40).

Here is a link:

http://www.nationalpike.com/

Thanks for both postings- lots of good information---

Could you post the MH introduction article? Working on a project and looking for MH information.

Thanks