doe70

Thanks Rob, thats the fella im after, dont recall any rubber plug but its been a while, will tackle job as soon as time permits. thanks again ellis

Gday, one of my front (behind front wheel) rubber mounts/cushions has died and i need to replace it, but cant remember where the head of the bolt going thru them comes out. is it under a plate in floor of cab? The bolt is just rattling around at moment. cant see any access via engine bay. Any input welcome, might save me cutting sound deadner out for nothing. cheers

ive replaced main tank with another and is still clean, very little to notice in any but havnt done any miles so to speak as yet, awaiting rego inspection, ill wait till then and put some kms on it and see how clean tanks are. cheers ellis

thanks fellas, shoulda got off my arse and had a decent look in first place, found it directly under drivers side (RHS) in frame rail as mentioned. cheers

gday, i havnt had any problems with it as yet but wondering what the desired compression ratio is on b model, after starting - takes one minute to build to 30psi, then second minute is at 60psi and after 3 mins is about 88-92psi. is this about right or maybe a tad slow? thought id seen the build up rate somewhere, wondering if needed to think of new comp down the track. cheers ellis

gday, i looked for switch near the brake valve itself but cant find it. is it typically in one location on the b's, mines a b613. any info would be appreciated, also any pics if available. cheers ellis

Yeah give it a go, the early R models with the steel butterfly bonnets looked completely different to the later more modern plastic front ends. someone must of come up with the nickname (australia only maybe) to differentiate between the later models. Is more basic/rugged looking - guessing similar to how the cartoon "the flintstones" portrayed things, more prehistoric maybe? hope that helps, sure theres someone else out there with a slant on it. cheers ellis

Yeah it looks ok, or did, is stripped down fair bit now - dog box & aircond is off. was pulling road trains up till last yr, was used in northern aust mostly then worked its way down south. Had 73' dash put in it in mid 70's as well as leather lining etc to modernize it i guess. The quadbox was taken out and replaced with a D1070 ten speed, is easier to drive but will put quad back in soon. Also had chassis lengthened in 70's, has hydraulics and long range tanks. Motor is very good, has power steering (leaking). Plenty of rust in cabin but doable. Will repaint in yellow. cheers ellis

Name: Mack R600 Flintstone (1967) Date Added: 09 September 2010 - 07:37 PM Owner: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/user/4534-ellis/'>ellis Short Description: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/garage/vehicle/335-mack-r600-flintstone/'>View Vehicle

Thanks for the informative replies, just what i was after. In my case its not cost effective to put on the 11 x 22.5 tyres, if i was using truck commercially i would, and got the 10.00x20 tyres very cheap. Seems not only are the old macks a lot cheaper in usa but parts/service as well. I will pay to get them fitted now, not worth the risk as youve mentioned, cheapest price ive managed to get here is $60 tyre-dismount/mount, but still be the better option. thanks again for great replies. cheers ellis

Gday, i know it can be a difficult thing to answer but how hard is it to change old for new tyres - 10.00 x 20. Is it bloody hard or just takes a fair bit of time. ive got some tyres (rags) to fit and tyre companies want a fortune just to fit em, as they only want to sell new ones. any input would be appreciated, ive changed car and mower tyres only. ta ellis

Gday, I reckon this site's a good place for finding info on the B models, look in the specific area and youll find most things youll need. I havnt found any books that offer all that much on em, apart from that any fellas who live near you that may restore them, always good to learn off. Good luck with it and if you find any other sites with info let us know. cheers ellis

Gday Rene, yeah it sounds ok, i was planing to take my b up but few hassles to sort out before can get it rego'd, and old r model is half stripped down so guess ill be driving the ute up, will keep an eye out for future references to it. hope to meet up. cheers ellis

Hi, cant add anything intelligent to paint query, but saw you had a b613s is its serial no3994? as ive also got one 1960, its serial no is 4326. thought they must be built fairly close together. cheers ellis

Hi, thanks Grant. Ill give him a call, sounds good and diagrams give a good idea what i need to order. take it easy ellis

Gday Grant, im an hr or so south of Adelaide. only grafton i know is in nsw, but not 100%sure if theres another. local wrecker has a 600 but is just as stuffed, i got air tank and a xmember off it yr or so back but rest is near usless, having said that im not sure about what dash its got?? i guess trouble with getting your old one over is its probably in same state as mine. ill try local mack dealer for panels but whenever ive gone there for say a radiator hose for C motor they scratch around for a while to find old book then someone to make sense of it, i think they reckon a 96' model is old. will try em anyway but first will cut out areas and see where and how bad it really is. once again thanks for info, dont know if youve done any more to yours but put some pics on if you have, would be good to see. cheers ellis

Gday Jeff, thanks for that - expains the G in it. definately just starts 673C, nothing prior, is clear to read. ive got a march 1960, delivered july 60 B613. Still not completed, hope to have it regod by june/july, i hear their tough on getting trucks thru pits here, so time will tell. again thanks for your help in both forums. still like to know if theres some site or place i can get any relevant info on these early flintstones. cheers ellis

thanks again for info fellas. i can see underneath my dash that its plated and bolted to what looks like whats left of the original. this cabs got rust everywhere, roof gutter, above doors and A pillars and below in same. i know anything can be cut out and rebuilt but is going to be a big job. called Moores wrecking in qld yest they have a flintstone tipper i believe in reasonable nick but theyre unsure how theyre going to sell it. ive still got a bit of work left on B then ill tackle this one. i just thought it would be more oringinal with flat dash, must admit was better for driving with this one but wont be using it that much in future. Also where can i get info on these flintstones, data, measurements, what chassis/ motors etc. Im in south aus for what its worth. cheers ellis

no probs, must have been done early as spoke with second owner from 1974 and was bogie when he bought it, is long chassis so can only think they altered it in some way, looks to be original but who knows. Where do you find any and all info re these models? thanks again Jeff

Thanks fellas, im up with the b models but obviously dont as much re flintstones. ive checked out those pics, does look to be a noticable difference. The cab ive got now measures 37/8" from back cab to seal or 43/4" from back to complete edge including the seal, if you could let me know exactly what one it is, would be good. where can i get the rust replacement panels etc and i guess next thing is that theyre going to cost a mint. cheers ellis

Im guessing your both right, looks like its had a later model cab put on at some stage, certainly wasnt for rust problem as this ones riddled with it. When you say cab is longer - how much longer and any other differences? has short steel handles like the b model at present. ellis

Hi, My 67 flintstone has got the larger wrap around plastic dash in it, first question did they ever come out with them in 67 and second how hard is it to replace it with a steel flat dash? cheers

Now im really not sure, i steam cleaned engine, is mostly a silver colour, same as my C motor which i know came from a service workshop in early 70's. theres nothing on valve covers to state either thermo or maxi. granted eng no starts with 673C but could this C block have been used to build it into a 675/237? as obviously its a rebuilt engine. i cant see any other way of telling, i do think it drives with a greater power band than the C. thanks for info so far

I wont argue with you on that, but the fella i bought it off said it was a 237, has gold/copper paint on it here and there and i have an older C motor in the B, looks similar but not the same, that one's eng no is 2380B5358B. id be glad to hear any other ideas on how to tell. cheers