randyp

My 1961 B has 10 speed duplex, main has drain plug and fill plug on side, aux only has drain plug, no fill, is drain on aux. just there to get what oil is left in bottom and it will fill when i re-fill main and do i use 90wt? Bout how much will they hold also, roughly?

Hi Herb, I've seen several D8's moved that are complete and they too are heavy. The D9, and 10 series of tractor will not clear the overpasses on the interstates if the cabs/ROPS are installed. As I've always seen, the blades and frames are always shipped separate. On the D9 and D10, the air conditioner units are plumbed, and secured to the back of the cab for transport. The D11 series gets the main tractor minus the roller frame, tracks, ripper, and cab and ROPS on a permitted oversize load, the roller frame and small parts on another permitted load, a single track and more smaller hardward like ripper teeth on another load, a single track and cab/ROPS on another load, and the main blade on a last load. Depending on travel distance depends on where the blade frame is packaged. If the tractor is a "carrydozer", there is one more load involved. If I recall correctly, a standard D11R weighs in about 214,000 before the owner "options" are added on......

Few years ago a guy took off from Morton with a new D10 that had the cab and ROPS installed and caught it on an overpass traveling I-74. Imagine the force it would take to break the tractor loose from the trailer and pull it off and onto the pavement! Then imagine the driver not having the proper permits. Then imagine the damage to the bridge, and the fines to the company for the damage! The driver went to jail, (imagine that) and the bridge was rebuilt/repaired with the I74 overhaul project we had go on here for almost three years.

Rob

yeah, guess i should have mentioned all oour coal mine stuff is moved on big wide private haulroads, will get you guys a picc of the custom built equipment hauler and post it, (after all these 12 hr days are over)

I have a 58 B-61ST, perfect running 170 Thermodyne, triplex with 5.02 rears, and speaking of moving dozers: I have a friend that picks new dozers up from E. Peoria, IL and hauls them to his yard. He works for Daily Express and they move a lot of them as does Keen Trucking across the street. There was a new D-10 setting on his beam trailer with the cab off, but complete otherwise including a three tooth ripper on the back. I backed my B61 under and hitched up, waited for the air to build to move and did not have enough power to get 10 miles per hour in about 1000'. I was able to upshift two gears, (auxilary only) and had not run up against the governor before running out of room before needing to turn though. The lot is gravel and it took all that little truck could give just to get that much weight moving without sitting there killing it.

Although it was slow for the limited time I was playing, it sure was fun. I had to back it to the spot I started from as he would not let me turn that sharp in the gravel; (didn't want to scrub off, or cut and tires). That dozer probably weighed about 90,000 the way it was outfitted.

I called it "The little Mack that could".

Rob

Well, you can say you actually pulled a 10 with it now then, thats great, i bet she did squat, lol. I move a komatsu with mine, it only weighs about 25,000 lbs. I work in a strip mine here mining lignite for a power plant, I run a cat 10 prestripping dirt, all decked out i think a 10 weighs a little over 300,000 lbs. or approaching it anyway. When it has to go in for maintenance they move them with an old converted Euclid 100 ton coal hauler and a really wide hydraulic drop neck custom built trailer, single axle on truck and trailer, but really huge tires. We run 3 cat D-10s stripping, 3cat D-9s supporting 100 ton dump trucks, 3 cat scrapers , 2 hitachi 1800 shovels loading trucks, 4 cat 637 twin engine scrapers, and 2 cat 992s with 4 dart 120 ton haulers moving lignite. Haulers are 1971 models with 12 cylinder cummins, heh,,we go through bout 4500 gallons of fuel a shift and moved about 16 million yards a year, running 7 days a week 24 hrs a day, 12 hr shifts. i dont think i better back my lil single axle under one,,lol,,,later,,,Randy

I made it up here for a training class at the Kohler generator factory starting tomorrow. Gonna stop by Herb's place on Thursday as he's been saving me up some quality "road scrapes" for the cafe. Thinking about a new "twist" to the nuclear chilli, or "Road Stew".

You know it's gonna be good.

Rob

I like Kohler engines, they rank right up there with Mack, got one on my 0-turn grasshopper lawnchopper, all it needs now is a triplex and a stack. Have a good time and learn a lot,,,randy

Damn, just thinking of that blistering speed makes my eyes water from the imaginary windblast.

Rob

Rob,,,I wear leather helmet and goggles for windblast,,,its the G-forces that bother me. I said "forces" Rob not spot.later,,Randy

Mike is right - the only way to get more air into a normally aspirated engine is to create more vacuum

and/or more cylinder head volume, or pressure to compress that air, or create a denser charge of air

(via cool can etc.). The engine is getting all the air it can take in right now, unless there is an obstruction

in the intake system. Simply adding a lower restriction air cleaner would probably not make a measurable difference.

Turbocharging is a wonderful addition to a diesel engine, because you gain the flexibility of adding more charge air and force-feeding the engine under pressure.

Unfortunately, you are stuck with a whopping 170 or so raging Mack ponies - and they only have one speed! And it ain't exactly a gallop.

Our company motto is "Old, Slow Trucks - even Slower, Older Drivers"

Welcome to the club. I think it's pretty cool that you are actually using the old B model to move your equipment.

Paul Van Scott

Thanks Paul, Yeah, its kinda gotten to where i would rather move dozer than run it,,wifey cant understand that,,brought it home the other evening,,wife said "finished that job in one day?" I said no,,was worried bout leaving tractor overnight, taking it back in the morning,,rolled her eyes,,she knows me like a book. I told her im saving gas in my pickup though, technically i am if i dont drive it and take the "B". Thanks Paul,,I qualify for your company motto,,,later. Randy

Hello,

I believe I can be of some help to you. I have the original oil bath air cleaner as well on my B61 673P engine. With the oil bath you are not buying air filters, just cleaning a pan with oil and back flushing the dirt from the metal gause type filteration material. I used to find older cars and trucks had these filters and were a great system. Drawbacks were they were larger bulky filters and you had to put fresh oil inside the pan, meaning you got your hands dirty.

Later vehicles have the dry filters. They are still large but you only have to change the dry filter element costing you money that you could have to buy more cigars and beer etc. etc. .....As for getting more air for an naturaly aspirated engine of anykind, you have to open up the cylinder heads, ports, polish etc. big cam for a better profile, depends on what you are going to do with that engine. As for me, I would not change a thing but getr cleaned up and enjoy the exhaust music and watch the heads turn when you go down the boulevard.

MACK FOREVER.......YEA!!!!!!

mike

Thanks Mike, yeah ive cleaned many a oil bath filter, kinda messy, saw ad in B-store for retro dry type and just got to wondering a little about efficiency differences, power and all, (my mind wanders a lot). I dont really think I could make myself harm one little strand inside that cute lil stock original critter, gook and all. Besides, I wouldnt want to set off the "Check Engine " light ro risk failing an "emissions" test,,,heh,,,heh ( 8 words back is posed to be or instead of ro ) Thanks for info,,now i will have more money for snuff and root beer,,,having a mack attack now,,,gotta go drive,,later,,Randy

The paper elements are basicly for the efficiency, they are like 99% compared to 80% for oilbath. So with the oil bath, 20% of the grit is getting into your engine's cylinder and wearing the rings. Not good for power. Otherwise, genericly speaking, the higher the horsepower engine, the more CFM it needs and the larger the aircleaner. If you notice some of the over the road tractors have dual outside aircleaners, like for the old KTA600 Cummins. So if you find a filter with a larger diameter outlet, or rated for a higher HP engine, you might get a little extra HP from better air flow.

Oh and the 80% efficiency, is only at high RPM. At idle and low r's, it lets more dirt through. This is because the low airflow is not splashing the oil up onto the wire mesh inside the filter.

Thanks M and Freight, appreciate you thoughts on that, my 61 has valve for summer intake and winter intake, kinda thinking dry filter with scoop on top instead of bonnet, get me some airflow going when im at warp speed on 58.216 MPH. LOL. I hate to change anything from stock though, just like the old school look. (The 58.216 MPH is with cetane boost and everything in my favor)

My 61B has a natural aspirated engine with oil bath air cleaner, anybody got any ideas if a dry air would be morre efficient power wise, pull more air for more power, not really that concerned aboout the filtering part, any opinions?

I don't think this question can be answered accurately without a lot more information.

Photos might help, and a complete accurate description of the truck's condition. Even then, the trucks

are worth whatever somebody wants to pay. These are antiques, and they are mostly toys for their owners.

And everybody's got a different opinion of what is acceptable to them.

Is the truck a project truck - or is it a running, working truck with current license and inspections?

Does it have good rubber, good brakes, updated dual brake system, modern air line plumbing, decent frame, decent cab, decent interior, good transmissions, clutch, springs etc., etc.?? These things all cost money, and the list goes on and on.

For instance - a fresh set of ten virgin radial tires and tubeless wheels are worth over $3,000.00. If they are already on the truck, it would make a big difference. If the springs or trunnions are cracked or broken, it's expensive.

If you have to put a clutch in the truck; a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel resurfacing with both bearings replaced will cost upwards of $1,000.00 just for the parts before you're done. And it's a pretty common need in an old truck.

The paint job is $4,000. to $6,000.00 for a decent job with minimal bodywork, and could easily top $10,000.00 for a show quality job. Welding, dent beating and panel repair are going to add on to that price.

I guess my point is - any answer you get here, for the question as you have asked it, will be no more than a guess,

and probably not very useable for making your decision.

I really do not mean to sound sarcastic, but -

You need to be happy with the price. It doesn't matter what the rest of us think. You know how you are going to use it.

If you're just going to play around with the old truck, maybe you can overlook a lot of it's imperfections. If you're going to work the old girl, you might need to be certain the truck is up to the task. If it's a restoration project, you can't pay too much for an excellent body and frame.

We just want to see you get the truck and have fun with it!

Paul Van Scott

Mr. Van Scott is exactly right. I bought a mostly restored 61 to move a bulldozer maybe once or twice a week at most, could have bought a cheaper truck, but i wanted to move it with class, plus, its a big attention getter so i think its good advertisement for business. It also carries me back to my younger days, maybe makes me feel younger (cept when im crawling arround under it wrenching). I paid a lot for it, have spent a lot on it making sure it stays roadworthy and safe, parts are high, but dont matter, will drive it till im gone, wonderful old trucks. If you get u one, good luck with it and have fun, (and patience and ask a lot of questions)

One of my best friends had recently bought out the rolling stock of a small LP gas co, that had gone out of business. On of the units had a 16 foot steel flat bed and a nice hydraulic boom. He pulled the flatbed off and sold the truck for almost as much as he gave for the whole bunch. As he was telling me about selling the truck he suddenly exclaimed, dammit, I should have kept that truck, added a winch, and I could have loaded logs with it. I had to remind him, hey man I am 66, you just turned 62, and our logging and pulpwood days are over with. I can see why you might want the loader though, you could stack your collection of yesteryear items in a very tight 16 ft. high circle around you while sleeping. Gather all the ladders up first though, all the kitchen knives too.

Ah,,,logs,,,pulpwood,,,quotas,,,,chiggers,,,,ticks,,,wonderful, humid 105 degree days in east texas woods between hills, no pesky wind to bother you, oops, left out sweat flies and copperheads too,,,lol,,,wonderful memories (really wouldnt trade them for nothing, good character builders)

Look on the drivers side of rear axle(up around the gear area-if it's a double reduction) and it will be stamped x.xx. Mine has 4.62 and with single over triplex it runs 65~mph. With a direct duplex, I bet 50ish is all you'll get. Look on the drivers side of tranny(main box) and read the "TRDxxxx" and see what it says. This will clarify if you have OD or not.

Herb, my truck only has the one fuel filter on the front pass. side of motor. I put one back at the tank with a separator in it to make it easier to keep the front one clean. Also much easier to replace the spin on hanging off the frame then puking fuel all over the place on the engine mounted original version. I know I should just put some spin on types from a 237, but oh well.

thanks freight, trans. is a TRD 72 , no 0 at end so i guess its not overdrive, i couldnt find anything on rear end but build sheet on it says its a 4.66 ratio so i guess im not gonna be setting any speed records, lol. I now have a wheel seal with a very slow leak, not getting inside on brakes, coming out between dayton and brake drum and dripping down on inside rim, very slow leak but i guess im gonna have to address that now. I still am not very good a splitting 10 speed, i never seemed to have that much trouble with triplex or quad, but i will keep practicing, lol, thanks for info, nice looking rig there freight, I like that

Yes, you loosen the bolt on top of the P.S. tank and the whole top comes off. Fill it about an inch from the top. If it looks like someone has previously put the wrong type of oil in there(such as auto trans fluid) the empty out the system and fill it with the correct oil (15w40).

Sounds like someone in the past had drilled & tapped the drive axle flanges to "pre lube" the wheel bearings by pouring gear lube in thru that hole. Maybe one axle broke and was replaced at some point, so the replacement axle was never drilled & tapped. A hole in the very center of the flange is usually just there for machining purposes when the axle is manufactured.

Should be 2 fuel filters in the stock configuration on a 673, a primary on the left side of the engine near the top front, and a secondary on the right side toward the top front.

.

thanks HK, gonna crawl all over it today and check fuel filters out, also going to go pick up 4 new tubeless rims for rear drive, put new tires on and quit hopping down road like a rabbit. Tires on rear now are very old, tubed, and have flat spots in them. Speedo shows top speed of 50, think im doing better than that, so im gonna take GPS with me and check that out too, I think its a 4.66 rear end.

15w40 engine oil in the power steering.

thanks HK, is there a certain level i fill it to, its just one bolt in top of cap, looks like maybe whole cap comes off then, also hate to be bothersome, but its a single axle, was wondering why right axle has a small fill plug in end of it and left axle just has a small hole in the center of it, no fill plug, should there be something covering the small hole. I also have not seen a fuel filter, sorry, I could probably shoot a million questions at you,,,thanks HK

I just bought a 61 b-model with 673, naturaly aspirated, 10 speed duplex, and it has a very slow drip from what im told is the generator driven power assist motor or pump. There is a tank mounted up higher on the fender well and does anyone know what kind of oil it uses? I intend to fix the little seep, but not sure about type of oil. The truck is mostly restored and im using it a couple of times a week to move a komatsu dozer, (bout 25,000 pound machine). In my younger days i have driven triplex and quads and this duplex seems harder than both of those, splits seem to be a bit tricky, but im getting there, thanks