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randyp

BMT Benefactor
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Posts posted by randyp

  1. I think that Herb is correct - the 1st Macks with "optional" seat belts were the R models in 1966, and all of the various derivatives of that cab type. I don't know when they became standard equipment.

    I have a couple of B models with aftermarket belts, but I have never seen any with factory belts.

    Paul Van Scott

    Thanks guys, I had a hard time with a state trooper who just didnt wanna buy into no factory seat belt story, he wound up on his cell phone getting another ruling, finally got off phone shaking his head and said your legal, you can go, but i dont like it. While you are here, Vanscott, i bought a 1986 mack R-600 dump truck with 14 ft. bed. Behind the cab across the top of frame is big piece of steel,,welded to front of it extending under back of cab it has 2 small air bags with a short shock absborber on each side, there is a cover over it in cab of truck with 2 large bolts looking like they praobably go through center of each bag. Leveling arm is unhooked right now, when i moved it to cycle air to bags (cab is sagging back away from hood right now),,both bags are leaking pretty good, i guess thats why they had leveling arm unhooked. My question is how hard are these to get out and replace,,go from inside cab at top or underneath? thanks,,,,randy

  2. nice lookin fleet you have there really like the b my fav color too. joe

    Thanks Joe, ole killer B is in tip top shape mechanical and all, not a rattle or squeak, interior redone,, new rims, rubber, Its biggest downfall is not turbocharged, still pulls dozer pretty good, just falls on her face kinda quick on good hills and keeps you busy in the cab, but still fun to drive,,,later...Randy

  3. If I remember right,that plastic trim piece has 4 studs,one in each corner,with nuts on the backside.

    you think that will be easy to find on an 86 superdog? (in mint pristine,deloused and debugged condition?)

  4. how do you post pics where your name is i cant figure it out. joe

    I think you go to your profile and edit there Joe, Im just an apprentice computer moron but tklhat may be the one called avatar i think, maybe one of these gurus will step in and help you,,,Randy

  5. It sounds like you might need a clutch adjustment,I always adjust it to leave two inches of free pedal,it's important to have that free pedal so that the clutch is fully released.Also just before the pedal hits the floor the clutch brake should be engaged.I know there is a right way doing it by measuring in between the clutch brake and the through out bearing but off hand I'm not sure what the measurement is I think 3/4 inch when the clutch is released.

    Okay thanks for help MACKS and info on that other stuff, weather gets friendlier here, will go get that checked out and up to specs, you been a big help...later...Randy

    post-4330-12662303975816_thumb.jpg

  6. Yes the perimeter moulding. All of them I have are a stamped metal piece. I've never seen them plastic as yours must be to allow a chunk to be missing. They should be readily available new, or used. Remove the screws that retain the aluminum escrutcheon plate, then remove the screws from the perimeter moulding. These screws will be set into a nylon nut that is recessed into the fiberglass the hood is constructed from. I would lock onto the nylon from the back side with a pair of vise grip pliers as the corroded screws will not want to back out readily based on past experience. Now of course no one else has these problems, just me.

    The crack to the passenger side of the hinge area looks to be from impact and not corrosion/rot. It is a stress crack from the fender/hood being bumped which probably broke the moulding at the same time but was not severe enough to take the fender off the truck, or possibly fracture the structure further back.

    Rob

    Thanks Rob, will get a pic of the other side tomorrow which has bolts missing, hinge crooked, and ugly crack,,,thanks again,,,randy

  7. You are speaking of what is referred to as an escrutcheon moulding if I understand correctly. It is the aluminum piece and on the left side of the truck a lot of trucks had the block heater receptacle access mounted through this panel.

    If you have stress cracks, (very common) around the hinge area don't just slap resin and matt in there and call it done because you will do it again!! Most times the steel reinforcement is corroded and this coupled with constant pounding/vibration starts the breakage.

    If you will send photos of the affected area(s), I will give you an idea of how I would repair it. It really is not difficult unless the damage is extreme, and can be time consuming but an aftermarket hood can bust $1500.00 really quick before labor or paint is involved.

    Rob

    Hey Rob, I managed to post pic of headlight trim i was talking bout on odds and ends, I will get a pic of other side later(the side that is cracked pretty bad around tilt hinge) I got my diploma from posting pic college now,,,thanks for info and help,,,later..Prof. Randy

  8. post-4330-12662004948898_thumb.jpg

    well close all hatches cause gonna give it a try

    post-4330-12662004948898_thumb.jpgwell rowdy, i dont get a "copy image location" I just get copy, I have the pic showing in the attachment section at bottom, but keep getting error message saying no image selected,,anyway,,will keep messing with it,,thanks,,randy

  9. You are speaking of what is referred to as an escrutcheon moulding if I understand correctly. It is the aluminum piece and on the left side of the truck a lot of trucks had the block heater receptacle access mounted through this panel.

    If you have stress cracks, (very common) around the hinge area don't just slap resin and matt in there and call it done because you will do it again!! Most times the steel reinforcement is corroded and this coupled with constant pounding/vibration starts the breakage.

    If you will send photos of the affected area(s), I will give you an idea of how I would repair it. It really is not difficult unless the damage is extreme, and can be time consuming but an aftermarket hood can bust $1500.00 really quick before labor or paint is involved.

    Rob

    yeah, the flat piece with block heater hole in it (aluminum), i gotcha there, the other thats cracked and missing pieces,(plastic or fiberglass, goes between it and side of hood and overlaps in front of hood bout an inch all the way around, I just took a lesson from rowdy rebel on posting pics, I guess i flunked that class too, got picc i need on computer but just cant seem to get it attached to post, will keep trying, thanks for info,,Randy

  10. Right click on the image you want to post and select "copy image location" from the menu that appears.

    Then, click on the picture.png icon at the top of the box you are typing your post into.

    Hold the Ctrl button and press "V" to paste the image location into the box that appears after you click on the picture.png icon.

    Hit enter.

    :thumb:

    well close all hatches cause gonna give it a try

  11. Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

  12. Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

    Oh yeah Rob, forgot to mention, when I was messing with those batteries today, I remember reading your good lesson on batteries and connections, seems like it was a good while back, you gave an excellent class on it, thought bout that lesson while I was out there,,thanks,,Randy

  13. Oh yeah MACKS, had a question for you, 86 R supposedy had clutch replaced bout 3 thousand miles ago, how much free play should the clutch pedal have? On my 61-B,you come off the floor bout and inch and your rolling,on this R-model, you press clutch pedal down bout an inch or so and its disengaged, driving those two trucks is very different. I start letting clutch out on R model and begin to wonder if Im even in gear, just nearly all way up till it takes hold, starts up real good and smooth though, clutch on B goes through floor and it better be pressed all way to floor or you gonna be rolling , better not even wiggle your foot till your ready,,,LOL,,,thanks,,,Randy

  14. Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

  15. I'd recommend keeping it all Mack.

    If you want more power, just put a 237 in there.

    .

    yeah, I hear ya HK, Im looking for plastic or maybe its fiberglass square trim around headlights for 1986 R-688ST, I found the flat or chrome flat trim that fits around headlights, but these are the inserts that go around those, found that at jpchrome, also found place online for aftermarket new hoods, havent checked on price yet,(that may make me squirm a little). The 86 is gonna need lots of little ffix up pieces here and there, thanks for info,,,have a good day,,,Randy

  16. my 62 b61s the mack mueseum book says the truck has 12 volt charging 24 volt starting and pos ground .i belive ive had neg ground to it for a while it has been starting with 1 12 volt battery on warmer days it has 2 battery boxs set up for i guess 4 6 volt batterys and would like to if poss take out one battery box and run 2 12 volt batterys but i want to make sure i got the neg / pos ground right i need help !

    Hooah and hip hip a doodle,,,,yes sir Mr, Rob and Mr. Freightrain gave you some of the best advice you could have possibly gotten on that, you oughta send them a sweet valentines card,,,,Randy

  17. We bought a used Deere 510D backhoe a year ago...best equipment purchase (on the farm anyway) that's been made in a long time. Bought for many of the same reasons you stated...local Deere heavy equipment dealer is good and family friend is a mechanic for RSC and highly recommended it also.

    Thanks all, I called a friend of mine last night and he also said parts were really a big problem with JCB. I have a komatsu D-41 dozer and am really crazy bout it, but the used komatsu excavators arre really pricey. I found some good deals on Hitachi 120 excavators, hours from 2 to 4 thousand, isuzu powered, none of them have thumbs but I can just add one, theyre kinda pricey also. I found one outstanding deal on hitachi 100, main difference tween it and 120 is 100 isnt turbocharged, so bout 8 to 10 h.p. difference (not counting torque and efficiency and fuel consumption. I really appreciate all your input,,,later,,,Randy
  18. Anybody got any input or personal opinions on JCB 130 excavators with Isuzu engines. Kinda looking at one, a 2005 model, hydraulic thumb, low hours, all bells and whistles, several of them all available but seem to be priced pretty cheap compared to other brands. sound off opinions please,,,,thanks,,,,Randy

  19. I can side with slow on these trucks. I would however probably stay with a Mack engine as I am much more familiar. They can also be had at much less expense. That is just my opinion as I know virtually nothing more about Cummins engines. I also favor a Mack transmission and would probably not change the duplex out because I like mine.

    I'll be interested in your old parts when available as they would be used in another restoration, (I don't sell anything myself).

    Rob

    okay rob, will keep you in mind and let you know how it goes along, the 673 and duplex are spotless,,not a single leak, you could eat off them (I have read on here before your somewhat of strange cook anyway),,,Randy

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