Jump to content


BMT Benefactor
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by randyp

  1. Today, I got to add the fuel return line to the growing list of parts & pieces I've fixed w/ duct tape... :pat:

    LOL,,Rowdy,,,I was loading killer B up for her 200 mile round trip and thats the first thing that went under the seat, wont go anywhere without duct tape, my son was in military and he said they called it "100 mile per hour tape", he said he bet he went through 5 cases of it in Iraq. Hell, I sleep with a roll of it under my pillow,,Randy

  2. Looks home made to me. The only rops on Galion, and Champion graders around here were formed round tubes.


    yeah Rob, you are correct, it still has the original umbrella holder on the side, the rops is homemade, and a pretty stout one at that, its about a late 68 or early 69 model with a 3-53 detroit, 3 speed forward and 1 reverse manual, all hydraulic except blade pitch is manual by loosening a couple of bolts. Im gonna give it a little restoration, I do a lot of driveway and farm road jobs and i liked it for its compact size, price, and old school look sitting behind killer B. I already knew my mileage down and back Rob, fueled before i left and when i got back refueled and Killer B got 7.8 MPG going down empty and returning loaded, it seemed a lil hard to believe, i checked and rechecked, but thats what it got, I thought that was pretty good for a naturally aspirated engine. LOL,,the guy in the pic with killer B's hood up is the guy I bought grader from and he was slobbering over truck so much he wouldnt move so I could get a decent picture. Few lil things and leaks to fix on grader but its pretty tight, will let you know how it goes,,later,,,Randy


  3. anyone ever heard of a HALLA Excavator,HE220LCE, it has a 6 clyinder cummins,50,000 pounds looks to be a good machine,anyone know where and who makes it. thanks Ron

    have seen a lot of hallas but dont know ahything bout them,,,kinda sounds swedish though

  4. A buddy of mine swears by JCB.......he likes the power it has. It does have lots of power, but it seems it will tear itself apart if you don't know how to run it. Hitachi's are great machines too.

    What brand engine does JCB have? They are great looking machines and seem to be reasonably priced, but parts availability deal kinda scared me off, plus i dont need anything to tear itself apart,,,thats kinda my job,,LOL,,randy

  5. Now keep in mind that I'm in Cat's home stomping ground but JCB has not been able to get a foothold in the area. I've talked with many operators that have ran them all and they say Cat is the best and will outlast most of the european and japanese machines by at least twice.

    I know that when I went to purchase a used backhoe I looked at a 410B John Deere, a 580E Case, a comparable JCB, (214, I think) and a 416B Cat, all used with around 4500 hours on each. These were all private owned machines. The JCB machine was cleaner physically than any of the others but was plain and simple "worn out". None of the tractors had ever ran a breaker, and only the Case had been welded upon. The engine in the JCB was Perkins, which Cat now owns.

    The Case machine was purchased due to rapid parts availability and pricing. The Cat stuff was exhorbitant, (as usual), the JCB parts were not only a "wait till we get em" type arrangment, but the cost was above exhorbitant and there is only one dealer within about a hundred miles. The Deere parts were about on par with the Case machine, but the dealer's service department is not quite as friendly as the Case dealership. When I need help, or a special tool for repairs I could "borrow" it. I had purchased my skid steer from them also.

    I've heard their excavators are about the same as their backhoes but I have no experience with them. I've seen a lot of new ones in municipal use but rarely see an older one except on farms.

    No help I know but typical of myself, I know nothing.


    well,,wound up buying EX 120 hitachi, 2400 hours, bought a new thumb to go with it, all seems pretty tight, just got through dragging it home with killer b, will let you guys know how it goes,,,thanks,,,randy


  6. Hello All

    I am looking to buy a R model. Always have liked Macks but never had the money to buy one, but now I do. Can spend about 5k. In regard to the 5+4 transmission. Is it possible to shift the 5+4 as only a 5 speed. Are all the 5+4 made by Mack. I really want a truck that is ALL Mack. Thanks

    I may skip a gear on mine every now and then empty, and sometimes even loaded if I just broke over a rise or something, just depends on the moment and whether i can keep RPMs reasonably good, have to agree with HK, dont be lugging too much or you will pay for it later, all works better to maintain that RPM band...Randy

  7. Im new on here and need some advice on what to look for when searching for a B model project.One of my main concerns is the gearing and road speed.I hope to find a single axle and use it for local shows and maybe tow my sons race car trailer once in a while but really Ive always loved B models since my dad owned a couple when we were kids and Im looking forward to having one to tinker around with.I read where some were geared lower maybe 48-52 mph and others 60-62.I looked at a long wheel base truck with a quad but didnt know what to look for but when I go back Im going to write down what numbers I find...Thanks PS what does 613x mean...I saw it on ebay

    I pull an excavator and dozer around with a 61B, tops out bout 57 or so, 10 speed duplex and its so much fun moving it makes me want to finish jobs real quick so i can move again so I guess its really making me some money. Whatever B you get,,,enjoy,,,Randy

  8. Randy:

    The Tach drive is not on the inj. pump, it is under the pump, toward the front, sticking out of the block, pointing upward. It will have threads similar to what you saw on the back of the tach (but larger) where the tach cable screws on.

    Hope this helps.


    yeah HK and Rob, got out there this evening looking under injector pump,,lo and behold there it was sticking straight up, traced cable up to air cleaner tube climbed up on front tire, looked behind tube and there it was all wadded up and tied with tiewraps, sorta hidden in middle of engine. Wadded up like that cant be good for cable specially old cable,,anyway got it all straightened out, got all the oil in it i could, still hand clamps in 2 places on it to give it a good slow curve to firewall,,hooked it to back of tach,,,,no work,,I guess it must be broken somewhere,,I may unhook it from tach in the morning and see if it spins,,but i doubt it. I guess i need a new cable dont i Thanks for all help and input HK and Rob,,,later,,,Randy

  9. Hi Randy you have a mechanical tachometer. If you cannot find the jacket with a .104 square end on the protruding cable, you are missing some parts. These can be had from most any speedometer shop and sometimes aftermarket parts suppliers. The jacket will have either a smooth outer end that is held of the rear of the speedo by a friction clip, or a knurled knob that will screw onto the threads in the rear of the speedo housing. The other end of the housing attaches to the engine under the injection pump on the rt. side of the engine. This will be a knurled knob that has a round end crimped onto the cable with a tang one the end. This tang will slide into the gear on the engine that meshes with the auxilary shaft to be driven. It is the same setup used on the B series truck. It is also very common to failure due to age.


    Thanks Rob, yeah, im missing the entire cable all the way to the injector pump, on the back of the tach it has threads for the cable to screw onto. I havent checked out the end at the pump very thorouly yet, did find the hole in firewall where they removed cable though, thanks for the help, i just gotta start scrounging and find some parts. Really appreciate all the help,,,Randy

  10. Is that a mechanical, or electronic tachometer your asking about?


    I took cover off top Rob, looked at back of tach, must be mechanical, cable is completely gone from back, no trace of it even hanging or anything, I turned little brass knob where it hooks in and tach registers(I almost did 100 rpm with my fingers)I guess i need to get a new cable, only saw one hole on back of injector pump where it may screw in, no other wires or place for wires on back of tach,,,thanks,,,Randy

  11. Sometimes it "pays" to not burn the bridges behind you.


    yeah rob,,,never ever never burn bridge behind you,,matter fact paint it and put up safety railings before you leave,,,Randy,,(got cab air bags on r model rob,,,swwwwweeeeeettt!,,,

  12. Amen and I'm not complaining, the job offer actually fell right into my lap.

    I had a girl friend one time who said jobs were always falling in her lap, found out she was a prostitute so i let her go,,,only visited her once a week after that (and stopped kissing her) randy

  13. Use a porta power to elevate the rear of the cab and then block it in position. It is a LOT easier to do with the cab up high rather than squatting in the rear. There are bolts on the top and bottom that must be removed and the bag will slip out. There is tension due to them being rubber composition, but the job can be done with a little effort.


    mission accomplished, wasnt too bad,,,feel like im riding on a cloud now,,,thanks all,,,randy

  14. Those transmissions suffered from the "range shift self destruction syndrome", so that later shift pattern was designed to allow the range shift to take place at a lower speed, thereby putting less stress on the range shift synchro.

    If he's looking for an on/off road transmission, that rules out the 2050 or 2060, as they don't have enough low gear reduction for that.


    ah and alas HK, once again you are on the money bout that, I have the distinction of actually destroying a range synchro long long ago in a galaxy far far away, it wasnt pretty,,,keep us straight and informed HK,,,,later,,,randy

  15. I can side with slow on these trucks. I would however probably stay with a Mack engine as I am much more familiar. They can also be had at much less expense. That is just my opinion as I know virtually nothing more about Cummins engines. I also favor a Mack transmission and would probably not change the duplex out because I like mine.

    I'll be interested in your old parts when available as they would be used in another restoration, (I don't sell anything myself).


    Well Rob, may not be any parts for you after all, I made the longest drag to date with ole killer B today, 48 miles one way, and she just purred all the way up and down the hills with komatsu dozer riding her. I was a little wore down when i got there but it sure was an enjoyable trip, may just keep her doing dozer duty after all,,,randy

  16. The only one I've dealt with was a tractor. I wanted the air ride setup so I removed everything. It was a lot easier to remove the crossmember from the frame once the cab was clear but taking the bags, (both blown) off wasn't that bad with nothing in the way.

    A hoist frame would definately be a bitch to work around.


    Thanks Rob and HK, Im gonna get started on that,,,Randy

  17. That's more than likely a factory air ride cab setup, although I can't say that for sure without actually seeing it.

    The 1991 RB that I had was equipped with a setup just like what you describe. I had to change bags on that one a couple times and it ain't really a fun job.

    Regarding stress on the front cab mounts, the R models with air ride cab use front cab mounts that are able to "rotate" as the rear of the cab moves on the air bags, so there is no issue with the front mounts.

    thanks HK, yeah, I was looking at the front cab mounts, they do look like they are designed to rotate a little, I just gotta figure out how to get those old bags out, thanks for the help,,,randy

  • Create New...