beatngu

Well after finding the right wiring diagram, making a handful of new cables and lots of trial and error... My truck now starts with the push button in the cab WOOO! I put all new airlines and brake cans on the rear axles and the truck will build 120 PSI in the tanks. So my nest task is getting the compound unstuck. Not sure what range it is stuck in but it will not come out. I would try the whole pry until it gives method but something tells me there is a better way. I can see a metal rod tht moves with the shifter in front of the transmission, and someone suggested getting a long bar and trying to tap on that... any ideas would be great! Also another small thing, my shutters are seized pretty good. I have them off the truck and sprayed them many times with pb blaster and "knock'er loose" with no success.

IF you happen to be scooting through VT here is something on Craigslist http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/4535486277.html

Also this a '52 single axle dump http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/4550522380.html

There was plenty of third part push back when I bought my truck, we will see who gets the last laugh. My project will need much work as well but that is part of the fun. One thing that I did when I got mine is bought a decent set of wrenches (7/16 to 1-1/2) and a 1/2" drive socket set... have used them every day one way or another!

Wi you be around tomorrow? By fault of junk trucks I have tomorrow off. Off the top f my head I am looking for a driver side seat, fenders, brake cans and a tachometer

Well I finally ran into a real problem. The air compressor is pushing oil into the air tanks. I am going to swap the compressor off the spare motor and hopefully that one is good. Other than an air leak from the wiper assembly the tanks will build 90 PSI.

whereabouts are you located? I can think of a few odds and ends missing from mine. I live up by Plattsburgh... can't be too far from you.

I got it, the spring closest to the cab was stuck in the "up" position. Now it idles like a champ!

http://youtu.be/Hb1W4fv0a2w

Excellent, will do. If the rain lets up, that will be my task for tomorrow. Would there be a replaceable gasket after taking that cover off or just Use some silicone/ make one with gasket material?

There is some sort of fuel shutoff on the line coming from the filter to the high pressure pump. By cutting some of the fuel flow, the engine will stay at safe RPMs and it idled on its own for maybe 30 seconds. Any thoughts on that scenario?

I have another fuel pump sitting on my spare 711, which would be much easier on the wallet

Small detail but these are not old trucks.

I work for Casella in Plattsburgh NY we have a fleet of Mack roll offs and 2 Mack cabover ASL trucks. I am blessed with driving a 2013 International ASL... "Gertrude" I'll try and get some snaps tomorrow after the route for interested parties.

10-4 any other questions I have after more tinkering I will toss in the appropriate forums thank you all!

The auxiliary transmission is stuck in gear, not certain which one but the main box comes out and switches just fine. The tractor will not push the truck in 5th. Maybe we will get lucky and the temps will rise above 22 degrees in the next week or two. IF the motor is no good I could always toss the 711T in it...

When using the hand primer I can hear fuel going back into the fuel tank, so could I prime it until hard and try to start it with WD40 or a small amount of ether to try and make it catch?

hmmm, I may need heavier wire then. Well I know what is on my Christmas list now lol. I could not for the life of me figure out the setup in the truck but I guess by switching to 12V and starting from scratch I wouldn't have to care at all about it. I tried turning the motor over with a prybar in the driveshaft for the hydraulic pump and it didn't move too far before I couldn't turn it anymore. I have the pump unhooked now though. We tried push starting it and the truck gave a few puffs of smoke but nothing too promising.

Here it is!

I just checked out your pictures and it looks nothing like mine, I will post pictures as soon as I can and toss them up here to give everyone a better idea of what I am working with. But I do know I have a bad ground wire so I bought a whole roll of 2 gauge and some fittings to get rid of all that rotted junk under the cab. I think I can just get rid of the whole 3rd battery setup as well while I am under there...freezing. For a temporary basis I bought a battery disconnect switch so I can just wire the batteries straight to the starter and try to make it turn over that way. Out of curiosity today I hooked my jumper pack to the starter (12V) to make sure the starter turns over and indeed it does but when the teeth catch it won't budge the motor only being 400A of 12V... at least I hope that is it.

Well i have the switch out but it only has two large terminals. but there is also what looks to be a starter solenoid where the other two cables hooked up. i have two batteries on the passenger side and a spot for one more one the driver side

So I am trying to figure out how to get the truck to turn over but I have some issues. I did not have an ignition switch for the truck when I bought it but I got this morning to make this whole process easier. When I got the truck the starter was out of it, leaving 3 wires hanging in its place. I bench tested the starter before putting it in the truck and it turns over just fine on 12 V. So I bought 2 new batteries and a new jumper for the two to get 24V and that is no problem. I see there is another place for a battery on the passenger side, which leads to another question. I was using the rear post on the starter as the ground, there is a negative line coming from I believe the solenoid, a negative line to the frame and a positive line with 24V from either a battery or the solenoid. I am so confused, swapping two of the lines there is no voltage going to the solenoid at all but the other way I have 24v to the solenoid. I would like to know if I am supposed to have another battery in the system because hooked up in the configuration where I have no power going to the solenoid I have a reading of 24V between the empty battery terminals on the passenger side of the truck. And the cables on the passenger side of the truck run up to the solenoid/ p/s switch. I do not want to get rid of the p/s switch to make the truck run because I like things original. Any help would be great!

anyone have a shop manual up for grabs? can't even figure out what gunk covered mess is the primer or if there is pieces missing

No idea on the dash, single axle dump didn't take notice to the emblem as I was quite busy removing axle shafts in preparation for the wrecker.

I think he said it was early 70s he also has another mack cabover and some kind of International no pics though, but I did mention this website if he ever was looking to part with them

So from what I am reading I may have hooked up the starter wrong. being positive ground, my ground wire from the frame should be on the side post of the starter and the power wire should be on the rear post... if I am not mistaken. But there is another wire coming from the battery as well so should I be hooking up both ground wires to the side post of the starter?