T-Mack1

I can walk to Macungie. Although I never measured it, I would say it's about 2.5 to 3 miles. I do know the Mack factory is 3.8 miles from my house. Yep, use to take 6-8 minutes to get to work.

Very Nice Vlad. The Mack museum has a 1945 NM that they have in running condition and nicely restored. ( YouTube video below) There is also a video of a 1945 NO on there YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/@macktruckshistoricalmuseum7922

mowerman, mrsmackpaul and tjc transport, Yes, a heater in an open cab sounds strange. The Spec sheet we got from the Museum had OMIT on the heater line. But, we use to own a 1946 jeep CJ-2A and it had a heater in it that helped keep the passenger's feet warm. And we do have the duct work in our dash sheet metal to have a defroster and that could, "in theory", help warm the face up a tiny bit. I have the bows from a boat that fit nicely, just have to get canvas made. As for the windows, the passenger side is mostly there, with only an inch or two at the top cracked off. The Drivers side is gone.

Pictures of my repair for the leaking Aeroquip treadle supply hose. Note: I added a Tee to the treadle supply line just below the treadle and plan to use it to supply air to the park brake valve when we convert the rears from Service only to spring brakes.

Last one for today. The Dry/Slippery Road switch was originally on a bracket under the dash. So, for a cleaner look, moved it into the dash where many B61's have it (nothing was there). Note, the water temp gauge is only temp mounted. Previous owner mounted a mechanical gauge but didn't put it in the dash. Moving it into the dash is on the "to-do" list when we change the coolant.

Floor plates. They were not bolted down when we bought the truck. Cleaned, primer'd and painted. Then I made rubber hole filler pieces.

Took a gamble and bought a replacement speedometer cable. It fit the speedo perfectly. The Tranny side wasn't fitting. Measured the screw on retainer ID. Old cable was 0.825 inches, the new was 0.805. Dremeled it a tiny bit, measured. Dremeled a little more, measured... repeated till I got it to fit. We now have a working speedometer, weeooo....

My brother, co-owner Jack got a heater at the Macungie show. Sorry, only before picture I have is when I pressure checked it, but you can see the rust. Cleaned, treated the rust, most of the pitting filled and painted. And, the 12v fan motor worked. yay!!!!

Next, we picked up an ash tray from DM800guy . Cleaned it up, filled the rusted thru holes, made a new spring catch and painted. Came out decent. Now have to fix the hole someone hacked into the dash at the ash tray opening.

Sorry it's been awhile. here's some more updates. I think we said it earlier, Gas tank leaked. Took it off to get repaired. Someone had put fiberglass on three of the sides and both ends. so I took the fiberglass off and found several holes. Also found the sending unit almost totally rusted away. So tank got sent it out to get repaired. Moyer's tank repair in Greensburg, Pa. While it was out for repair, I cleaned and painted brackets. Bought a gauge & sending unit. Added rubber isolation strips. It was a pain in the butt getting it back in. But no leaks so far.

Not sure I can answer but what I see...... You have a bunch of optional switches (Key and Battery icons). And some kind of red thing. Key icons should be working with IGN on, and the Battery icons work directly off the battery. Is this a new issue??? When you pull what would be the yellow knob, a dash Park brake light should come on. Does it?? And, the center switch on the center row looks like it's ON in the OFF position (could be a camera angle thing though. Is that ON?? Is there some kind of interlock for the Body that might be affecting things? What's in the dash is an optional wiring harness (called an Overlay at the factory) for the optional switches that the body builder and or dealer hooks up stuff to. The switch connectors on the back side of the panel all fit on any switch with only a few exceptions. The top two connections on the switches is the power for dash illumination for the icons. It's odd that those 2 switch icons go out. And there may be a overlay for the dash switch/lock switches too. Also, the overlays have small connectors for the icon illumination (just saying so you understand that those connectors might be plugged in wrong) I would pull the dash panel off and check the labels on the switch connectors. It can be a spaghetti of wiring behind there. Good luck. (Note: I work from 2011 to 2016 at the factory and was Flex-repair on the cab line for 3 1/2 of those years)

That's the trailer protection valve (TPPV), and almost looks like it could be a dual-function trailer protection valve. Dual function means, if trailer attached, if trailer hose tears away, the massive air flow will shut off air to trailer. If trailer not connected, the Hand-Control (AKA trolley valve) will act like a service brake.

Correction, our current hood emblems are B60

That looks pretty close to the one I saw at the Mack museum, the brochure and on YouTube. We couldn't find one so I modified an Edelbrock air cleaner to fit.

Thanks Bob. In some of the clean up, I found that the unused brass 5/8" air line to the trailer that was just bangling, capped, under the tiller turntable (fire-truck fifth wheel to you none fire guys) was long enough to use.