Gorilla

Honestly dont know, but suspect they had the same situation that the quantums had i.e. early models were on renault chassis with e7 engines, later models were mack ch chassis with e7 engines and even later models were mack ch chassis with ISX engines........ i believe this has something to do with emission regulations and the e7 not being able to satisfy the masters (government) so they gave the truck AIDS (isx). In a few years i plan on rebuilding a Magnum with the ch chassis and e7 engine as while rebuilding the Quantum it hit me i should have gone for the more spacious Magnum. But still love the Quantum.....im nearing completion to sorting out the wiring, putting TPMS in, adding amp and custome 6x9 brackets for rear, modifying the radio controls on the stalk to also pick up and hang up phone, custom stereo etc etc. Then i will be adding a pre-oiller (aircraft continous duty type), rebuilding the turbo and sorting the rear main seal out (but still have to make a jig to pull the transmission back to get to it.

Hey Everybody, Didnt post much as was way too busy.... but the Mack Quantum i got a few years ago is nearing completion. Insane amount of work from respraying and re-aligning panels, doors etc all the way to rewiring internal multiple 24 to 12v converters into single one.... to fully sound proofing her.... to custom made mirror brackets so both sides have a original looking convex mirror.... to wiring in a nice stereo with custom 6x9 in the back with amp and a nice android auto screen so ill get maps off the phone on a 12" screen Everything was color coded including the door handles which i think looks mint, every deteriorated external plastic was repaired, and properly painted and they look like new (even if i say so myself) and i wont have to worry about the fkn oxidisation anymore. Have a near new 5th wheel im about to fit as my ball race piece of garbage is just that and about to change the diff ratio to better suit long range driving (from 4.65 to 3.7). Also all lights bar headlights and reading lights are led and all original rubber floor mat is in the tip and will be replaced with nice marine carpet after another layer of sound proofing. Also bed modified so no longer has factory flaw of rubbing on the drivers seat while driving as i like my seat pushed back..... ah well its a little more narrow in the end but who cares. Also sorted out wiring under the battery box which has all the converters etc (dont ask me how insanely bad it was fkd around with) and am stuck on how to connect the abs plug as its not straight forward and there are no manuals for the mack quantum (yay all hail the unholy union of 24v renault and a mack ch but in its defence its the later model with ch rails and rides sublime while being a truck mack ch in its driveline inc e7 470hp and Road Ranger 18 speed). Back to the abs plug, 3 wires come of of it, one thick with a large hoop (as it would be ground or 12v/24v?) and two plug in square connectors........... what makes me scratch my head is the abs plug has 7 connectors on it and cannot for the life of me figure out why in fk only 3 wires coming out plus i dont think my truck has abs although i could be wrong but i dont think so. Is this plug in some way designed to plug into the trailer and tell it to fk off your being towed by a non abs truck? Still stuck why 1 thick wire and two thin ones....... the thick wire goes to to pins on the connector btw so really 4 pins are connected in theory. Here are some pics of the girl, if you look at my past posts you will see what i started with........different truck

Yeh Its interesting as the load boards are garbage and cant find a broker to save myself so i think your right. Im in melbourne if that makes a difference and am aware most want late model trucks towing their stuff but im going above and beyond to make my truck look as modern as possible and clean white paint with no markings and everything including door handles painted to match so will stand out looking much newer. When i was operating for a reefer mob i noticed at woolworths total shitheaps towing their stuff (cough kenworth 104 cough) that werent in what id call good condition in any way so figure work is there.....also a lot of older 2000ish model volvos. Yeh i figure ill contact the mobs i would tow their trailers and see but yeh. Thanks for getting back to me.

Hi Everybody, Im 1/2 way through sorting my truck out and as the time comes near i am looking into finding contracts for work. I primarily want to operate as a tow operator at the beginning and in an ideal world would like to do reefer work ( as my hearing isnt good and i have a back condition so minimal hands on work for reefer). Basically i need a mentor who knows the game, in exchange i am happy to help with mechanical and electrical work and i have all the diagnostic equipment and a pretty decent workshop setup. Load boards here suck, their nothing like the ones in the states and i cant for the life of me find a broker, any broker..... simply none advertise which is weird.......so how do people get contacts for work? Cheers in advance, Chris

on the passenger side there is fuses inside and in the engine bay, inside they look very long which i suspect they are circuit breakers and outside (engine bay) they are fuses. Sadly "aussie" variants generally are a bit strange.....my mack quantum has real strange stuff.....but then again its a Renault Premium body on a mack CH!!!

In the engine bay i have fuses

Hey Everybody, Update:Truck Runs perfectly and all is resolved. In my years with cars and now trucks i have never ever every seen a fuse that works well until it is under load but this one did that and when tested showed it was good but when under load stopped working. Also some moron put a 15 amp fuse where clearly it says 25 amp....this is now resolved. Thank you all for the assistance, it did help

Dont get me started on workmanship of mechanics. Im a bit of a french car nut and know my way around the citroen hydroactive suspension system (the one most so called "mechanics" think is black magic and wont touch these cars). Anyways i was at a mechanics picking up some parts for my car as they also ran a wrecking yard and we got talking and they told me their "mechanics" had trouble with a hydroactive system.............met the owner of the car and he was a top bloke so i figured id help them sort it out............. not kidding when i say the following: 1. they used a impact gun on a thread that goes into aluminium in the suspension, screwed the thread and left it like that 2. they didnt want to remove all the bolts around the lower control arm to make it easy to remove and forced it out and back in 3. In the process of forcing it back in they bent a height sensor but left it like that because who cares 4. they couldnt figure out why the car was not lifting the rear and over lifting the front and burnt out the hydraulic pump 5. told them what they did and in front of the owner of the car, the owner of the mechanical workshop i told the so called "mechanic not to use the gun on aluminium suspension components and as soon as we turned around guess what the moron uses the gun and guess what he also screws the thread!!!! Lost my marbles and called him a moron in front of everyone, he had nothing........i walked off. Owner of the workshop begs me to help them as the owner of the car is losing his mind, told him ill do it ..........spent 1/2 a day fixing it to work, it worked but everything was not right as the morons did other work and i didnt trust them......... Long story short i told the owner of the car to go to someone who knows what their doing and the owner of the workshop to hire competent mechanics as he will kill someone......he told me he tried but none around!! WELCOME TO AUSTRALIA! Sure there are a few good mechanics BUT most yeh nah.

"think of the fly" in australia? are you kidding me, most so called "blokes" cant figure out how to change a tyre........ as an example of stupid my x boss demanded i drive a truck 40km to get a radiator hose repaired, i told him ill cook the engine but he demanded i do it and just stop every 5km at a petrol station to fill the water......... i did this and called him each time that it goes out as quick as i put it in but again he demanded......go to the "mechanic" and his jaw dropped that i drove it at all. Truck never went the same but hey we argued and he demanded. Sadly this is the mentality in this country, most are stupid.

I dont know what its like in the USA but in Australia the tipper drivers get constant abuse and they all put up with it (except me thus i quit the work). Gets real old real quick hearing constant abuse of other tipper drivers on the uhf, i never accepted it and one day the excavator operator went too far and i figured ill walk away before i get a criminal history. As for finding drivers here yeh nah, hard to get a local and the imports (cant name which ones as thats not socially acceptable in this "free" "democracy", yes we both have no freedom of speech) yeh well they cant drive and they lie...... every one of them has a gazillion years of experience and all the papers but for some strange reason they dont know how to operate the equipment. Ill sell the old girl cheap and be done with tipper work.

I was building it to keep but decided i prefer long haul and not keen on tipper work so its going up for sale soon.

Thanks mate again for your help as it was invaluable. Experience cannot be undervalued. BTW, here are some pics of the girl, yes the headlights are custom setups made by me Have the moulds to make more but damn it takes a lot of time to get them right in fibreglass. Front pic is right after vinyl wrap of large section, Left pic is final vinyl wrap finished.

Found Relay #3 feeds Fuse 40 If anybody need the info. :)

DUDE YOU ROCK!!! SERIOUSLY you ROCK!!!! hooked up another battery to the EECU fuse under the bonnet and came to life first turn (seems my bleeding was spot on). Interestingly if i disconnect that jumper while the engine is running the truck dies which i suspect means the relay feeding it is not working right. Where is the relay that feeds it? where is this Fuse 40? keep in mind im in australia so steering wheel is on the other side.

Yeh mate this is the plan Fuel is definately clean to all six Ill keep you all update.

Also ill try your trick too with the ecu fuse good idea

Interesting you say that as i have another truck with the e7 etech (which im keeping ) and same batteries started it no worries. So the starters like to die in this way, interesting. Got an old school load tester (one that uses a heat coil) and found it to be super reliable so will try out the batteries tomorrow. But would a starter get damaged from sitting for a few years? maybe the high pressure washing left water in it?

Ok just got back from the truck and found that no signal at injectors so electrical, checked voltage on battery while cranking and about 8.5v SOOOO tomorrow gonna put different more powerful batteries in and lets see. Fkn sure i bled it right, to be sure to be sure today cracked a two injectors and got no bubbles (at the head). Thank you all for the input i am seriously greatfull........ seems i didnt factor in that trucks suck up voltage like stupid.... my bad. Will keep you updated.

only downloaded it last night, thanks for that advice

ah crap you may be onto something, gonna check that too, thanks

ill check this out and report back

Its an Etech not Aset, today im going to read codes, possible one of the sensors (crank or cam) is causing computer not to send signal to injectors too.....

Should add, i noticed that if i walk away after hand pumping the fuel primer and come back 5 minutes later it is no longer hard and i need to pump it a bit more. Starting to wonder if the fuel check valve is stuck open? Also after cranking the engine the fuel primer is soft again.

Im cracking the lines at the head as figured air rises. Why can they be a bastard to get started? Im starting to worry.

Hi Everybody, Background story is truck ran perfect although needed work(unrelated to the engine), everything from fan shroud to fuel tanks were damaged so it has been sitting around while i sorted it all out. As I only disconnected the fuel supply line at the tank i figured it wont draw air into the fuel system (boy was i wrong) but it did sit like that for over two years while i sorted other things out. Here is what i have done: *repeatedly primed it with hand pump and pressure builds and can feel it but no start *cracked the the lines to the injectors one by one and found there was air in the system so hand pumped till clean fuel came out, tried to start and nothing. *cracked with injectors and cranked it and clean fuel came out of all injector lines, tightened back up, primed hand pump nothing. only thing i can think of that i did not do is check the fuel filters are full of fuel but as i did not have a filter wrench with me today i did not do that but will tomorrow. How do i read the blink lights to get codes and is there a code list you could give me? Its a 2003 Etech 410hp Other option is while i was painting the frame and disconnected stuff i may have left some sensor disconnected but i am pretty good at making sure all is well generally although my experience is more so with cars and not trucks and have bled diesel fuel systems without issue in cars. I have purchased a vocom but it will be a few weeks away and hoping to get it running at least before that. Thank you in advance, Chris