Shortdawg67

I have found a fairly used whole Turbo for my ASET-C. When I replace my current turbo; should I replace the oil feed lines as well? Could the oil feed lines be clogged up with carbon and/or soot that could have caused my turbo to also fry up?? (Keep in mind I STILL have low Oil Pressure to the Engine!!) Or can I keep the oil feed lines and clean them out? Also, when I replace the current turbo does the new ‘fairly used’ turbo need to be recalibrated to the ASET-C?? I am also keeping in mind to inspect the charge air cooler and clean out any metals or clutterness. Anything else I should look out for?

@Joey Mack yes there is a little oil in there as well as In that gasket tube that connects to the turbo has some leak in that tube I noticed. I’m sorry what does C.A.C. Mean?? If it is leaking what would be the next step? I’m wondering if something fell in or around the air filter and the turbo blades are up whatever it could have been.

Engine Mack 2007 ASET-C 380/410
Combustion air temperature 2-8 flash code
combustion air humidity 2-9 flash code
Those are the new codes I’ve been getting; hearing this scream as I’m accelerating louder than the turbo. I need help troubleshooting. Also, How do the Turbo blades look to you guys??

I will definetly be changing out my batteries before the winter comes. The ECM has been rebuilt and my truck has started right up. I’m still flabbergasted about this ECM only being 2 years old and already needing a rebuild. Could a short cause this to damaging the ECMs power??

Yesterday I checked each of my batteries (3 only) worth a battery tester and they all showed about 13ish volts separately so the batteries were good. I myself and a couple of my owner operating buddies checked the fuses in that little box on the driver side hood, also in front of the passenger seat that compartment and by the passenger sides feet. It did seem like no power was happening from or around the ECM. Then I got todays news, which was what I shared with you guys today a few hours ago. The ECM is currently being rebuilt I should have my semi back by tomorrow. Just hoping THAT really was the issue and not the alternator or starter or something. You know when you go to the doctor and show symptoms and you figure out the solution? Problem solved hopefully 🥲🥲

The truck eventually stopped the one crank it gave before it stopped and showed no power. The power never came back. I’ve turned it in to the shop and they have said my ECM has no power. They put a test module/ one of their own and my truck started right up. They told me let’s go ahead and rebuild the ECM and I agreed.mind you I bought this ECM July 2021 I’m appalled that what I feel like is still a new ECM(to me) has gone bad and needs to be rebuilt…

2007 Mack vision cxn613 ASET C 380 engine

Flash code 9-2 power reset without key switch 

My truck has no power as I turn the key in the ignition. Anybody know how to troubleshoot and solution to this??

I have an 07 Mack Vision CXN613  on this invoice I bought

2 Mack Oil filters

1 Mack centrifugal spin on filter

2 Mack fuel filters

1 air filter

 1 Oil Coalescing Air Filter

im wondering should I always stick to OEM parts when it comes to oil change kits or can I use other brands to save me a couple bucks?? I asked about Mack’s 15W40 and they said about 36$ to the gallon 😱 this is why I’m making this a topic bcuz I’m wondering how can I save a few dollars here when it comes to oil change kits? Thankyou for reading!!!

I just recently deleted the EGR on my ASET C 380/410, 07 Mack cxn613. Was hoping that fixed my chugging/blowing blueish smoke out the pipe. You should have better luck then what problem I’ve been having for the longest 😆

@96bulldogpower is this the exact steps and procedure that I can do with my 07 CXN613 ASET C 380/410??? Any way that you can take some pictures and send them to me so I have an idea of what this looks like? And lastly, no delete kit was needed for this??

Hey dogs!!

i was wondering if there is a way to delete or a delete kit for the ASET C 380/410 engine??

of anybody can walk me through that and if that really does give a better performance to the truck?

#5 EUP. This is what “wet” or “leaky” is what I was talking about on that 

Hello all,

I am having a new issue now. I will start off by saying that 2 days ago I was in a hurry getting out of the truck I parked and turned the engine off while still in (remember automatic) Drive. 2 days later I am having issues with my tranny, codes displaying 72 & 51 along with the red blink service specifically on the transmission shift box in the cab.

I am also having a lightning flash bolt code of 7-3 (speed control switch) and 8-5 (#5 EUP)

EUP#5 when I do my pre trip I do notice is the only one that looks “wet” or “leaky” all the other EUP’s are dry. I’ve replaced all 6 EUPS when I did the overhaul to this truck back in September so I’m not sure why EUP#5 looks leaky and is showing up for code???

any help will be liked and greatly appreciate, thanks 😌

That would be the next thing I will have to look into. Is fuel diluting the engine oil, I should be able to know by an oil analysis correct?? There is no dent on the oil pan. And where is the Aux shafts located??

Yeah it’s pretty insane to me. Yes the oil filter housing was pulled off during rebuild and I do beleive I had the correct gasket for that. Man. 😌 I do appreciate you all. I may have to try an all Mack mechanic as this guy who I go to works with different makes and has only worked on one or two Mack’s I believe during his career. He is not a bad mechanic, maybe just not so familiar with Mack’s?

Ive had installed a PAI Overhaul kit  (that included rods and mains bearings) and a new Oil Pump from Mack… but I had a whole different shop install that new Oil Pump and they said it was a Reman. Yet, when I took that invoice from that shop(that installed the oil pump) to the Mack dealer I had them look up the oil pump part number and the Mack dealer told me it was brand new, I was hoping it was brand new before Mack told because I paid 1,340 for that pump so it better be brand new! Shoot!!!

the manual gauge read same as the inside of the truck. 8-10 PSI HOT IDLE and 20PSI @ 1400RPMS 😣

I did put a manual gauge to the oil port to read it with the oil pressure gauge in the truck 😏 so I should read it from the EECU? What’s that mean if I can ask, lol 😅

I really am bro. It’s a project truck for real. No, I have a separate individual mechanic for the engine rebuild. Then I go to a shop for light maintenance that the company I owner operate to; built.. they’re convenient for accepting payments out of my statements. But as you all have witness, gave me a new rear end lol

They only cleaned there area that they had to repair which was that front rear end. Now I am having an issue with this 2nd rear end 🤦🏻‍♂️ looks like I’ll be back at the shop tomorrow morning and hopefully some simple fixes and not a crack as you said @Onyx610

What I’m wondering is, since the shop that replaced my front rear end; took that whole section apart and put it back together. This is Now the 2nd back half rear end, but the FRONT of the 2nd back half rear end is the picture I posted… Did they have to mess with that section that I’m now having to do maintenance to??? (If you get what I’m saying 🥲)

Should I put a new gasket as well on there??

this is the front of the 2nd rear end. I recently had the truck all around power washed yesterday and seen this for my post trip after 200 miles today.. can any of you fellas indicate what I may need here??? 

UPDATE: I’ve replaced the Relief Valve myself in the Oil Filter Housing. It did not make a difference in the Oil PSI 🥲 my next look will be to check for the Rockershafts Plugs