Tinman22
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Everything posted by Tinman22
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sorry for the confusion. the original post was "front drive axle is wearing brakes faster than the rears" After having them on for a week braking is much better. Now all drive axle brakes will lockup at the same time. Before the front axle would lockup very quickly when empty in the rain or off road.
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As far as what I need...Well ,The plan is to remove the e6/t2090 and replace it with the e7/2130. The only parts I THINK. im missing is the crossmember and rubber mounts but im sure everyone will agree its probably not.
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I got that for $60.00. Now a crossmember for an 85' R . I have a 93' RD dump truck frame I'll go measure that.
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Exactly what I needed. Thanks.
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Is 45719 the last 5 of the vin?
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I'll get one tomorrow when I get back to the shop. But it looks like this. The E6 has a plate from right rail across the front cover and bolts to mount that clamps behind the balancer to the cover then angles behind the stearing box to the frame.
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What i've got is an e7 that I would like to put in this 85' R . From what i've seen the e7 had a different front mount than the e6 thats in it now. So im looking for a part number maybe or a pic of the correct mount. I have searched every salvage yard and haven't so much as seen an e7 R model. I tried google images but no luck. I heard there is an R show truck with an e7 that lives about 30 miles from hear but haven't seen it yet.
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Does anybody have a picture , part number or better yet for sale a front motor mount for an e7 in an R ?
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No drama just don't need accelerated tire/brake wear on one axle. mack calls for 26/26 front and 26's on the rear so i'm inclined to keep them matched and 30's are far cheaper and available. When I change service diaphragms or need to clock the fittings/clamps ,I cut a piece of tubing and slide it over the pushrod and put the clevis jam nut back on and tighten it to compress the spring. I run almost all two lane and usually 100-120 gross and with 30's on the front and 26's (not 24's) on the rear the front shoes needed replaced with less than 60k on them.
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After going to three different parts stores I found a set of 30's with a small wedge built into the housing that clears the axle. My wife told me the story of her father replacing the front 26/26 chambers with 30/30's because they were cheaper some 15 ish years ago. So now I know why the front tires were cupping and the front brakes were worn out. Once again thanks for the help.
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Thanks for the input. I'll sort it out tomorrow. I would prefer the 30's we will see.
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I would think so unless the kids have been raiding the scrap pile again.
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I hope they do but i can't fit my finger between the 24 and the housing now. I'll go get some 30/30's in the morning and give it a shot.
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I don't think 30's will clear the rear. I'll go see what I can find tomorrow. Maybe I can find some 24's with springs for the front. They are mack axles. clearance is pretty tight . Something needs to be done for sure. as heavy as I usually am and the fronts carrying most of the braking its causing some tire wear issues also.
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I've noticed the front drive axle is wearing brakes far faster than the rears. The rear chamber's are 24's? and the fronts are 30's. I have not seen this before. Assuming everything is working properly uneven wear makes sense. Bigger chamber more preassure. Truck is an 85' R688st. Is this right or have they been changed out incorrectly? If so which ones are wrong? Any thoughts?
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guess I will keep looking.
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I just found a cut with that funky s or z shaped leaf with no axles for 1250$. looks like its setup for mack axles. Listing says 44-50k. That neway is not an easy find for mack axles.
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Well almsot 3 months back to work and things are going pretty good. I have been trying to figure out what the easiest air ride swap I can use that will accept 50k axles and 5.02 gears. I don't have the time to go to the salvage yard and measure rear cuts and searching the internet isn't yielding much. I have been loading heavy to the rear and keeping the drives around 36-39k but its putting 60-70k on the trailer. My permit wants 23k per drive for 46k and 18k per trailer axle. (I know seems odd to me too.) that's why i want a 50k set for the rears Any thoughts would really help.
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I havea 213/218 book on the way. Probably going to need it. will a knob from an eaton work or are they different? I tried an old (round with side switch) knob on the 2090 and it didnt seem to be right so i put the orange glittery pistol grip back on.
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Apparently it's missing its shifter. would the 9's work or do I need to find one specifically for an 18? Even if I just use it as a core I'm going to need one.
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So the guy with the trans got back to me today and apparently its a 2180. Any thoughts? price is still 750$. looking at the ratios and rpm chart it looks like it will do what i need it to do.
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looks like '01 for the changeover.
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I just found one in michigan. seller claims its in good working order. he got the truck for the motor and parting out the rest. $750 takes it. Figured it was worth the core if nothing else. It looks like it was behind a cat motor. Did mack put mack transmissions behind cat's? Does anybody know when the t313 replaced the t2130?
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Does the 313 suffer from the same issues as the 2130 or did mack sort them out? Aluminium case would save some lbs. as long as it holds up.
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I agree with the mack trans being an easier swap and would like to keep it that way if possible. It looks like a t2013 has exactly what im looking for in the top gears. 6,8,10,13 are the same as the 2090 6,7,8,9 with a half split between them on the 13 speed. now to find one.
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