Tinman22
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Everything posted by Tinman22
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Well it took a minute but i found the correct crossmember and lucky me it came with a complete truck! It's a 1990 with an e6/350 t2090 and 38k axles. we decided to leave the 85' alone and put the e7/350 , t2130 and nuway air ride in this one. The 90' was white with a green and red stripe kinda like a cf freightlines truck. I got it from a paving co. in cincinatti. they bought in 92' and used it to pull a lowboy around. Its got semi low miles (360k) according to what they gave me for maint. records. Did CF use r models?
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Don't know. They always need my last 8 FA011995 sometimes depending on the part they need the whole number? Nontheless I appreciate the effort. I did hear of an r with an e7 at Boeke and sons over in indiana I might be able to get an eye on.
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Well in the engine swap crossmwmber saga i'm at a dead end. 85' crossmember is a piece of plate 9/16th thick by 10" tall with a 45* bend to go behind the stearing box that the nose of the timing cover sits in and a gets clamped in. the 94' donor truck has a stamped steel "u" shaped crossmember with an appliance that bolts to front of the timing cover and sits on the crossmember. Dealer says the vin numbers ive gotten aren't long enough to use "need last 8 at least" Pic is of the 85' from the top pass. side. Any more ideas?
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I'll make it work one way or another.
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They are both 85 r models. Im not sure about a direct swap though. my current set are an ss34 in the rear and an ss38 front factory original. Everything I looked at says 34's have a bigger bearing than the 38's but funny enough mine are some weird bearing in between big and small. If it were easy everybody would do it. Heck i'm still hunting a front crossmember to put an e7 in it! I can't even find a picture of one.
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I was wondering how heavy the 8 bolt axles went up to. I know at least 38k. Heavier would be better but they are what they are. Hopefully my budd hubs will go on them. We will see.
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I bought this today for $1500 from the cab back from a 1985 R. Picking it up weekend after christmas. I should have enough parts now to put together what I need....I hope.
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e6 block heater replacement.
Tinman22 replied to Tinman22's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
8609748 zero start. -
Does anybody have a good p/n for an e6 block heater? Mack says its not original from the vin so they would just be guessing. It looks like this one.
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sorry for the confusion. the original post was "front drive axle is wearing brakes faster than the rears" After having them on for a week braking is much better. Now all drive axle brakes will lockup at the same time. Before the front axle would lockup very quickly when empty in the rain or off road.
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As far as what I need...Well ,The plan is to remove the e6/t2090 and replace it with the e7/2130. The only parts I THINK. im missing is the crossmember and rubber mounts but im sure everyone will agree its probably not.
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I got that for $60.00. Now a crossmember for an 85' R . I have a 93' RD dump truck frame I'll go measure that.
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Exactly what I needed. Thanks.
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Is 45719 the last 5 of the vin?
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I'll get one tomorrow when I get back to the shop. But it looks like this. The E6 has a plate from right rail across the front cover and bolts to mount that clamps behind the balancer to the cover then angles behind the stearing box to the frame.
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What i've got is an e7 that I would like to put in this 85' R . From what i've seen the e7 had a different front mount than the e6 thats in it now. So im looking for a part number maybe or a pic of the correct mount. I have searched every salvage yard and haven't so much as seen an e7 R model. I tried google images but no luck. I heard there is an R show truck with an e7 that lives about 30 miles from hear but haven't seen it yet.
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Does anybody have a picture , part number or better yet for sale a front motor mount for an e7 in an R ?
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No drama just don't need accelerated tire/brake wear on one axle. mack calls for 26/26 front and 26's on the rear so i'm inclined to keep them matched and 30's are far cheaper and available. When I change service diaphragms or need to clock the fittings/clamps ,I cut a piece of tubing and slide it over the pushrod and put the clevis jam nut back on and tighten it to compress the spring. I run almost all two lane and usually 100-120 gross and with 30's on the front and 26's (not 24's) on the rear the front shoes needed replaced with less than 60k on them.
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After going to three different parts stores I found a set of 30's with a small wedge built into the housing that clears the axle. My wife told me the story of her father replacing the front 26/26 chambers with 30/30's because they were cheaper some 15 ish years ago. So now I know why the front tires were cupping and the front brakes were worn out. Once again thanks for the help.
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Thanks for the input. I'll sort it out tomorrow. I would prefer the 30's we will see.
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I would think so unless the kids have been raiding the scrap pile again.
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I hope they do but i can't fit my finger between the 24 and the housing now. I'll go get some 30/30's in the morning and give it a shot.
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I don't think 30's will clear the rear. I'll go see what I can find tomorrow. Maybe I can find some 24's with springs for the front. They are mack axles. clearance is pretty tight . Something needs to be done for sure. as heavy as I usually am and the fronts carrying most of the braking its causing some tire wear issues also.
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I've noticed the front drive axle is wearing brakes far faster than the rears. The rear chamber's are 24's? and the fronts are 30's. I have not seen this before. Assuming everything is working properly uneven wear makes sense. Bigger chamber more preassure. Truck is an 85' R688st. Is this right or have they been changed out incorrectly? If so which ones are wrong? Any thoughts?
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