BOBWhite

Was Mack still producing railroad equipment as this time? Maybe it came off of some sort of yard shunt locomotive 

Well I don't image anyone here would be going to a truck show in the middle of nowhere but I might take some pictures if I have the time and go. 

This got me thinking, why don't more people buy these? A brand new Isuzu F series comes with a 6.7 Cummins and an Allison transmission so you could make a heavy duty work truck without having to buy a dodge! You might even be able to snag one with a manual transmission. 

Sign me up! I'd put a bale bed and a caker on the back and have quite the cow rig 

If you own more than one of these...

I think as soon as I could walk I was toting one of these homemade air bombs around 

Adding onto that what is the difference between a long shaft pump an a short shaft pump? Does the radiator sit closer to the engine on the B models? 

Cool rig! Is it double or single framed? also what engine/transmission does it have? Welcome to the forum!

I use small to medium sized rocks from my driveway and shake it dry for awhile, then I use simple green or water to wash out what's left. Never had to do this on something bigger than a 15 gallon tank before though. 

I've had success with fuel tank sealing products before but I don't recall exactly what I used. I know it was the kind that you poured in then shook it around to coat the tank. I highly recommend using a fuel bowl if you're going to be using any old tank, especially if you've put rocks or bolts in there. There simple and cheep plus you can visually check for dirt and water. Best of luck!

I believe oil goes through the small tubes and the coolant surrounds the tubes. The oil first goes through the oil cooler then it goes to the oil filter assemblies. 

Heres a pic from the manual that shows each of the tubes. I think the tube you are referring to carries the cooled oil back to the oil filter assembly.

2 hours ago, CaptainCrutch said:

Surprisingly the heat loss really isn’t that significant, and on their first prototype they were getting a 50% fuel reduction to do the same work, because when the diesel motor is running its running at a constant throttle right at the peak of its horsepower curve, which is way more fuel efficient than having the diesel mechanical driveline we all know and love. And you can actually use a smaller diesel motor to do more work than most conventional trucks. Hybridizing a truck in the manner you mention would negate a lot of that efficiency, but it could definitely get you a little more fuel mileage. There’s a reason trains don’t get driven directly off the prime mover, instead they just have electric motors on every axel that are powered by the diesel generator… exactly like this truck.

There’s really no new technology here, it’s just a new application of something that worked for Mack back in 1927, and pretty much every train since before 1964.

Mechanical drive is still more efficient simply because of the heat losses. Reminds me of the trend of combine harvesters in the 90s where most of the belt and chain drives were replaced with hydraulic or electric drive. Simplified maintenance was the goal but recently most of the manufactures went back to belts due to more efficiency. 

The real electric advantage is torque application, thats why you can use a smaller motor. Most of the power a truck needs is just to get moving but If you had an electric motor to provide additional torque you can get away with a much smaller and more efficient motor. Plus you can drive without the motor being off but you would have to figure some sort of electric power steering, AC, and air compressor drives. 

I don't see how it would be any more efficient on fuel than a conventional truck with the loss of heat and everything. The regenerative braking capability's the real energy saver. 

I would use the traditional engine, transmission, drive shaft, and differential setup but have an electric motor act as sort of a carrier bearing between the transmission and differential. Then put a small Detroit 50 or other similar sized engine and have the electric motor assist when needed for extra power. Hopefully sodium ion battery's get cheep enough that I can do this someday. 

Welcome to the forum!

 A clear fuel line can be used to test if you have air coming in through the primary side. Could be a check valve in the system but I cannot say for sure. Definitely check all the return lines too.

You said it was a 2 valve? In America the 2 valves were mostly fazed out by 1986 but maybe it's different elsewhere. Nice looking truck either way 

Do newer air start systems have a separate tank for lubrication? Since the return fuel side has to be completely sealed up on some engines and diesel's not as good of a lubricant anymore. 

Interesting. So air start systems have a solenoid activated valve that sends air to the starter? Did they ever make them with a manually actuated lever or valve that you could use if you really hated having a good battery?

I never have been around anything with an air starter but sure have thought about getting one for the stuff we only use once or twice a year. Beats hauling battery's and cleaning connections in a hot shed. 

You said it has a continental engine in it? After thinking about it some I remembered that a lot of the Massy Equipment used those engines. I've seen some in combines so you might try there. Best of luck

Im definitely tuned it. Thats a cool rig!

Sends some pics of the engine. You might be able to bring it back if nothings cracked up too badly. 

I'd just assume that it was a different transmission (not a mack) for gas models. But it could be a Mack trans. I think they had the standard SAE 11 bolt pattern which I'm assuming Chrysler would provide the adapting stuff for. 

Just guesses though. Very interesting topic. 

Hopefully more trickle down to the US. And what's the deal with the Michelin man on the top of the truck in the 5th pic? 

That thing is so cool! I'm a big fan of the MH Mack but they never made a low cab forward version so I'd guess this is the closest thing to one.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the frame is a Renault. Looking at this form here: 

It looks like the air compressor is almost touching the frame rail which I don't think the CH or R frame is that narrow. Could just be that they put the engine way low down between the frame rails but what do I know.

Something simple like valve guides? Could be anything the more I think about it.

Can't be too picky with E9's these days though 

Unavailable for me too. 

Yeah that was recommended to me too:

Why'd they have the make the B model driver the bonehead?

You might have to get yourself one of these:

Ok I think I know where you're talking about. At the end of the road there was a big gate so past that musta been where it was. 

On 7/9/2023 at 12:43 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

 The yard was closed in the early 60's and just sat until Pratt made them clear it, sadly I suspect most went into rail cars, and scrap.

I think you're correct. I went looking for it today and found a scrap yard around where I think it would have been. Found a cabover Freightliner in sad shape but that's it.

Hardly any boost and it won't make much noise. Depending on the model you should be able to manually move the actuator to see if it's stuck.