BOBWhite

Idle is dead on then, just feels too low after the first start of the day. Feels fine when warm

Let's see other questions I have: I noticed this sticker and didn't know these were positive ground truck from the factory. Any reason why that is? I thought that went out of style in the 1950s or so, I have not even looked to see if this truck is still positive ground but I guess its something to keep in mind: 

Another problem was I lost power steering a few days back and thought the fluid was low but the hydraulic cylinder had come loose. Now I had gotten the truck suck in the field and had to be pulled out so it could have popped off then but I didn't notice or remember. I cleaned it up and tightened the clamp bolt and it hasn't happened since but it's still odd to me. Seems like it flops around more then it should so maybe it needs an adjustment or those joint replaced 

13 hours ago, mowerman said:

hey welcome back bud,,,we thought you fell off the earth,,,bob

Its been a busy and rainy summer so far, getting stuff planted and waiting on the ground to dry 

Here are a couple:

Say what should the normal idle be on a 2V E6 like this? It feels a bit low where it is now, but I need to get a new hand throttle so I can run my PTO a bit faster so maybe that will take care of it. 

On the subject of hand throttles what are the ones you can fine adjust by twisting them called? Aircraft use something similar but I've seen them in trucks too

I'm not too sure about that Hino emissions scandal either. To me it seems like Cummins (or whomever) wanted 100% of the small truck market so they paid some people off to get rid of Hino, notice we only hear about foreign companys having emissions scandals like VW? 

In any case Hino really made some quality truck in their day from what I've heard, its a shame

Haven't been around the 903 much, seen a couple in Versatile tractors but heard most farmers didn't like em. 855 was much better on torque and fuel. They made the 903s for a lot longer though, did they use the same PT fuel system as the 855?

Only place V style diesels found a place on the farm was in combines and silage choppers. Claas uses V8 and V12 Mercedes and MAN engines, and now John Deere has started using German V12 Liebherr engines in their choppers. 

On 5/13/2025 at 8:08 AM, cruiseliner64 said:

Cant say I ever seen one of these engines.In fact CAT sold very few engines over here apart from in their own machines.Foden  ERF and Dennison trucks plus all the American trucks were offer with Cat engines and apart from the US makes very few CATs were sold.In fact I believe although offered Dennison never sold a CAT powered truck.Although a great engine they were regarded as a premium product and few would pay the asking price when Cummins Gardener and Rolls Royce offered great engines much cheaper....

Paul

Did you ever drive something with a Gardener engine? I've alway thought those engines were really neat, wish I could get my hands on one just to look at it 

3208s are really nice in busses and RVs. Had a turbo/aftercooled one in a bluebird Wanderlodge that was great! lots of power. 

I think the 3208 got such a bad reputation not for being bad engine, but for what they were put into. Before the 5.9 and 6.7 Cummins that was really your only option if you wanted something compact. Lots and lots of Ag equipment got 3208s, they were beaten up then parked usually due to the machine falling apart around the engine. 

If only it had a straight 6 and a 4 speed like my dads truck. 

What kind of advice is that? We can't be having drivers learn how to read and feel RPMs and match them to road speed I guess. 

I've seen those and have always wondered who made them, they kinda look like DPFs. My guess is that naturally aspirated Detroits used em since they didn't like too much back pressure. 

15 hours ago, Joseph Cummings said:

I liked the oil baths, cheaper to service, so they got serviced more. Not to mention I never opened one up and found flaking rust on the engine side of the element

Oil Baths are my favorite as well although running them with turbo chargers makes me a bit nervous. The used engine oil is usually clean enough to be used in oil bath air cleaners so they are pretty much free to operate, lots of people seem to hate them now though

Got in a new temp gauge (175 degree thermostat turns out) and gave the engine a good bath but it's still pretty greasy. Gave the radiator a good clean out too, lots of dust in there. Did Mack use orange/reddish primer or is that the original color of the engine and it got painted grey later? 

Next two items on the list are valve lash + valve cover gaskets and the doors need attention. Not sure what I'm doing with these doors but looking for threads/advice 

The AC panel Is just gone so I guess I'll be on the hunt for one of those. Good sized nest up there too which may be why it started leaking

1 hour ago, 70mackMB said:

You get that Kysor AC operating 100% you'll need an ice scraper for the inside of the windows!    .....Hippy

That's what the PO said it worked really good but too many leaks to keep it running. I just am not sure where the controls would be, there is no "vents" its just an open hole (I'll take a pic if I remember) I think I'm missing some parts from the inside. 

After a rain shower I noticed that I had a puddle of water on the floor. Looks like the Kysor AC roof unit will also need some attention. Don't need AC but If I need to seal it back up may as well get it working again. Parts or anything still available for these? I'm not sure what parts are missing from mine or how it was hooked up. The lines are still hooked up but I'm not sure about the electrics since the tag says it 24 volt. 

9 hours ago, mackaholic said:

That looks like a capillary type mechanical gauge. No wire attached. It should have a metal tube that runs from the sensor to the gauge with either a plastic or wound wire protective cover over it. If that metal tube is broken you'll have to replace the gauge. If the gauge has 2 wires attached to it now, that's not the sender. Nice truck!

Yes sir you are right it is the capillary type but I've never seen one that looks like that, I'm used to the metal shrouded ones. I swear I had a couple spares laying around but alas I will have to make a trip to the truck parts store. 

2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I wouldn't say mine is loud, can't hear it over the rest of the noise when coasting

Is there a hole and vent cut into the left hand side inner wheel guard, wheel well I think you all call them

Anyway, they normally have a big vent cut in there to let the noise and air out

 

Paul

I will have to take a closer look and see where the turbine vent/check-valve is because I haven't found it. That Farr air cleaner doesn't deaden much of the sound so that also makes it pretty loud. 
On that note does the tip turbine have an oil line going to it or does it have a sealed bearing for the turbine shaft? Does that bearing ever go bad? 

3 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

can see now you don't have the shutterstat system BUT the lower tank self contained (NO AIR)  system. disconnect linkage as prescribed  and carefully work shutters.

Yep did that and they are moving just fine but it is adjusted so that they are open all the time so there might be something wrong with the shutter unit. It would be nice if the Shutters worked but since it's mostly a summer truck they won't be used most of the time anyway. 

Well I found it just where you said it was and it matches the vin number (since it had frame work done I wasn't sure If it would). So it did have the ENDT865 in it originally, how neat! What year was the RS700s introduced and about how many did they make? 

Another thing I want to tackle on the truck Is setting the valve lash and cleaning/resealing everything. Do I need to remove the tip turbine unit to do this? or just the pipes going to it? 

How can I tell if my truck is a Hayward? Did they make RS700s in Hayward?