trucking251

All my linings and drums are good, I replaced 2 wheel seals and bearing sets over the summer and checked all bearings. I noticed some play in s cam but wanted to put it off until winter. I will be installing the 2 new slack adjusters next week. They are the standard 6" center to center 28 spline. I'm thinking that as long as I can maintain under 2" free stroke the cam play won't affect anything. Anybody that thinks you don't need to check brake adjustment daily with "automatic" slack adjusters should not have a CDL license. The manufacture state the adjusters should only be adjusted when first installed and when any brake work is done, that adjusting them any more than that actually wears them out prematurely. That does NOT mean you should not check the free play. Otherwise the only way you know adjuster has failed is when you can't stop or don't pass inspection.

drums and linings are good. There is play in cam through bushing, now this has me worried. I ordered 2 new slack adjusters.

no clicking

the adjuster ring thingy my finger is on has tons of slop in it, so not sure just cleaning would make these work again. I will adjust so 1 1/4" travel when applied, within 2 days have 3" of travel.

7/16 to adjust. Haldex. both on drivers side drive axles, they worked fine for 2 years and then didn't. Back in fall on time when I greased lot's of water came out.

2 of my slack adjusters are backing them self off and not making clicking noise when adjusting. Should I try to take apart and clean or just order new? and are ones on ebay worth anything or stay with OEM?

unfortunately the lightning bolt is never on long enough for me to get a code. I still can't translate abs codes I'm getting. ABS light is on most of the time.

No, I hold the 2 black buttons on dash, then I can cycle through the codes.

2005 Mack Granite CV713. ABS light comes on and off. Lightning bolt occasionally comes on. Pressing both black buttons on dash I'm getting codes S004-7 M136 and S002-08 M128. I know M128 is engine code and M136 ABS code, but it would be helpful to know specific code so I can tackle just one sensor. Thanks.

what O-ring? I put brand new one on down tube from dealer. I will take pictures Today.

I understand that. It's acting like it's randomly getting pressurized, like crankcase pressure. you can Idle for an hour after washing oil off and not see a drop, but then drive for awhile and be covered again. It's not a constant.

I've checked breather several times, I got the factory o'ring where down tube goes into oil fill tube. I just don't think it's meant to hold any kind of pressure there, just if oil splashed up.

I have a 2005 CV713 with AI400 motor. I have oil spraying all over passenger side under turbo. I clean it all up and run it and don't see a drop of oil, but then drive it for awhile and everything covered again. I've replaced o-ring on down tube from turbo, almost positive that's where it's coming from. I believe it's a very intermittent pressurized release of oil from there. What would cause random pressure in the motor? Turbo was replaced 60,000 miles ago.

Thanks for info. I did change out radiator already so had all that crap off. guess I'll plan on a full day into it.

and what else should I replace as long as I'm that deep into it?

I have to drop pan to get front cover off? does the fan come off without moving radiator? So there should be just oil behind cover, not diesel, surprised it's not leaking into oil

Here it is. looks like harmonic balancer and shabang would have to come off to get this cover off? It's literally bubbling out of gasket right below that plug.

there was a pipe plug above the cover that I took out and sealed and put back in, but that wasn't it. Are you saying there's another plug that I need to remove breather to see it?

2005 Mack granite cv713. AI 400 I think they call it ASET? I should have taken picture before it got dark out. Anyways, fuel is leaking from front cover gasket, directly behind crank breather filter assembly. Wandering what this involves to fix?

UPDATE: So to recap I started out with a blown turbo. Had oil dumping out exhaust pipe fittings, no oil on intake side at all. Bearing was shot in turbo. Ok so new turbo on and also replaced small section of hose with hole you see in picture, no more oil out exhaust, but.... Picture dumping a 5 gallon pail of oil on the compressor in picture. Oil everywhere! had oil in my tanks and out purge valve. Put on new compressor, duh. Well that fixed oil inside system but now still have massive amounts of oil everwhere in this area. Have completely degreased motor and tried to find leak 6 times. No oil until after I drive it, can sit for an hour idling, no oil. Back head oily so I replaced valve cover gasket, no luck. Intake side of head oily, exhaust side (side with most oil everywhere) dry around head gasket, but is this because close to exhaust and burning off????? pulling my hair out. no loss of power, smoke, coolant in oil vice versa. I'm at a loss!!!

I'm thinking because of the hole in hose it's sucking dirty air through compressor, I just got truck, so I don't know how long it's been doing this. Dealer claims no issues before it made it's journey from PA to Mass, he says turbo went on way here.

I promise. AI-400 has no EGR system. I get it now on compressor, that's just air feed in and out, so probably got a bunch of junk in there between the turbo failing and the hole. -(

This is the "AI" motor. No EGR thank goodness. The air side of turbo goes to intercooler around front of motor. Really don't understand the purpose of all these hoses coming off the compressor.

Thanks for info. I didn't mention that major amount of oil in exhaust, I assumed turbo and have new one on shelf ready to go in, would this cause oil in that hose? hoping to not have to replace compressor as well, seems to build air fine

Do you think the small piece of rubber hose with hose clamp is original or a quick fix?