Countrylife

Hi All, 

I am hoping someone has an idea here as I am a bit confused. At some time someone cut the batteries off the truck (4 6volts) and I am adding 2 12v. 

Here is a diagram of how it is currently wired. I know this is wrong because there are currently 3 neg terminal ends and one positive that goes straight to the starter. I have looked that how other trucks are wired and also looked up a few diagrams but that seem to have different answers to each. First the Owner swears this is a negative ground but I am not so sure. What does appear to be happening is they look to have set it up on 12v and were using jumper cables when starting. 

If anyone has some clarity I would be appreciative. I think it is supposed to be 

f1 - 2+

f2 - 1+

f3 - ST2 

f4 - 2-

ST1 - 1- 

But I am not certain as the diagrams conflict. What I am certain of is that when we hook it as it is, it tries to melt the last battery terminal we hook up. 

I get how series parallel works.   with one set connected neg to pos and the left over positive going to the truck and left over neg going to ground giving 24v

What I am not certain is how the switch is making the connection. 

It would seem to me it makes it across f1 to f3 but I need to learn a bit more apparently cause I am not certain on this. 

When I run 12v from a hot to the small post on the rear drivers side of the switch I get a "click" but that does not mean the switch has not failed and hence the goofy readings we get on the OHM meter. 

Thanks

On 6/19/2020 at 4:20 AM, snowman_w900 said:

Good deal. Hopefully the dealers or someone in aftermarket will carry these.

 

I appreciate the info!

Let me know how you come out, I am not sure my solution i a real long term one

Cheers. 

18 hours ago, Mike Harbison said:

You might as well save the phone call

That message you got was me

1 hour ago, Quickfarms said:

 

Are you talking temporarily or permanently?

My wife stopped that threat after I built this. It’s nice enough inside that she stays with me at shows now.

 

That is Noiiiice!!! 

anything worth doing is worth doing in 6x6

I agree Mike, I'm just not looking forward to living in it.......

5 hours ago, Mike Harbison said:

Parts truck,2750

My Wife is gonna beat my A$$$

Call you tomorrow

Sorry I misspoke, will a cruiseliner grill swap or are the too dissimilar? 

46 minutes ago, j hancock said:

The MH is a Mack Ultraliner.  To my knowledge, it should fit fine.

I might be confused, I thought the MH was fiberglass composite cab and the ultraliner was aluminum cab? 

If they are the same that widens the search

On 5/31/2020 at 5:18 PM, MHfred said:

It would probably be a good idea to find a parts truck for all the things you need. Good used grille pieces are few and far between though.

I am looking hard for one, I did find a guy locally who has some parts, not a ton it sounds like but a few to keep me moving. Does anyone know if the Ultraliner Grill will swap? I have found one of those 

10 hours ago, Terry T said:

Mike is a member here as well as several Mack related FB groups. Mike Harbinson Sr is who your looking for but his son, Mike Harbinson is also on FB and one most of the FB sites as well. I just text Mike and told him to check out this thread.  I'm hoping to stop over and see him in a couple weeks as I'll be at a memorial service for a friend only about 70 miles from his place.

Thank you so much!! 

14 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Pedal assembly? Did you tear up the one that was stuck?

Not too much but it is pretty corroded. Functional for the short term but not really nice looking or all still there...

A quick question but does anyone have contact for a guy named Mike Harbison

Someone mentioned he had a few cabovers for parts and was on a few Mack Groups 

I need several things like heater controls, toolbox doors, pedal assembly, visor etc. 

Not sure if anyone knows a place for parts but I have talked to a few and they never get back to me. Thanks in advance..

Another Question, On the bottom of the tranny there is an inspection plate missing with a grease zirk on a tube and some sort of shift collar in it. (Hi/Low?) 

Is it common to remove that plate and leave it off? 

It seems to have been gone for a while based on the grease on the flange. I am worried some tranny issue got this parked years ago. 

Thanks

18 hours ago, 1965 said:

I gotcha 

they definitely need the straight weight  delo 100.  & 40w is fine especially if it’s got some wear 

Well, ours have been "Fettled" a bit as well. We put slightly bigger injectors on them. Added blower gears with an extra tooth and bigger turbos out of 8v71s so they make a little more HP. Then we straight piped the exhaust. 

Does anyone know if the top of the dipstick is supposed to be flush with the pop of the neck? I think the handle fell off ours so I am not sure if it supposed to be down more or flush. Not that overfilling a little will hurt but I do not want to be way over. Now it just kinda sits there. 

No, I am thinking that as they have a rack and mechanical injectors, they seem to be set up for Delo and prefer it. 

Maybe it was just me but I felt that when we ran a different oil, they were not as happy but IDK for certain. I know I love the motors 

14 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Any 15w40 will be fine.

Thanks, our Detroit's seem a little sensitive but that has to do with the injectors 

On 5/15/2020 at 1:42 PM, Vladislav said:

The engine looks like 2V E6-350 which was installed in MH's before 1985. It must have a chassis mounted intercooler in front of the main radiator. Very reliable engine and the most of parts are easy to fing and cost reasonable.

The solenoid looks like a main shut off relay. R-model has similar part installed under the dash. It gets on when you turn the ignition key and supplys power to instrumet panel gauges and alternator. Probably to other circuits either. Some outside lights (or all?) and engine starter are supplied straight passing the relay. I didn't look for the relay in MH since didn't have a trouble but my R-model has it inoperational from time to time. Usually after the truck is parked for too long. Actually it gets stuck and you have to turn the key multiple times or slightly hit the relay body. Once I bought the truck the previous owner hitted it every time he switched the ignition. I took the solenoid apart, cleaned and greased it and it turned out troublefree. But in a few years it started remembering me his existance.

Anyone have some recommendations on oil for this? Our 6v92's take Delo 100  straight 30wt but I am thinking Delo 400 for this.... 15w40 unless I am way off on something here. 

2 hours ago, MHfred said:

It would probably be a good idea to find a parts truck for all the things you need. Good used grille pieces are few and far between though.

I have been thinking on that, FYI  I need several little body and trim pieces. every piece of my grill has a little something broken on it. I wonder about having a replacement made out of polished aluminum or something

Would be a pain to cut out but might be a solution. 

Someday someone will read this and hopefully this will save a bit of searching 

The thermal fuse (electric breaker) is a Klixon 6766-19-100 $53 from Peerless 

the Continuous duty Solenoid is a White Rogers 124-906 $39 from Ebay (if you want the exact replacement) 

U-joint at the bottom of the shift linkage is crosses to a MasterPro 861 (There are tons of subs from different manufacturers) 

All that said, I am trying to sort the electrical gremlins right now.... 

Does anyone have a parts book for a 1983 MH 613? 

I am stumped on the shift linkage ball joints. The larger one I think is just something someone stuffed in there as it was not fitting correctly and the lower one does not seem to match anything I can measure out. I think I should start with what was supposed to be there and go from there. 

Thanks in advance for the help if anyone has a book. I wanted to buy one but they are few and far between it seems 

Cheers. 

The battery cutoff and the ignition switch are clearly a problem 

The cuttoff is frozen on and something is leaking heavily to ground. I get 12v from the aluminum step up to the Cab. 

My seems to be similar to everyone elses it looks like there is a master disconnect on top and a key powered solenoid. I think I will replace those 2 and see what happens. It is difficult to diagnose as there is so much current leaking into the chassis 

It runs and DRIVES both directions!! 

The U joint on the shift linkage is a Rockwell L6N or MOOG 861 if anyone ever need to look 

Reverse is still tricky to find but it is there, it does not like to be clutched into gears as much at just coerced but that is fine. Will get it out on the road as soon as I get some signals and then the fun can begin. I m excited to start fixing the fun stuff. I was debating on chromed up super singles on the rear but leaning away from it I think they will not do well on the farm and in the snow 

Other than that I am looking for the grill pieces and on of the toolbox doors. Is there a new2me yard that specializes in these? 

Cheers. 

1 hour ago, Vladislav said:

Usually some holes in the shifter housing get worn where axles pass them through. In fact it could be required (or might worth) to remove all the shifter (bolted to the cab doghouse) and revise all the joints. I personally would be likely to get just a used spare shifter assembly to revise and have as a spare but seems not easy to put your hand on one. I mean finding a perfect cond shifter is a hen's tooth entertainment To figure the truck has operational reverse or not you can use someone's help. Put the guy in the cab and show how to put the lewer into the reverse. Than get yourself near the linkage (being sitting on the frame rails or so) and try to force the shifter on the top cover of tranny to end up the way it would go when the helper operates the lever in the cab. Than tell him to try releasaing the clutch and see the truck moving or not. Pretty sure extreme caution must be provided during such actions including plan B instructions to the helper if anything would go out of line..

It would work but yes, extreme caution... trust...... and a new set of shorts!

Not only does it run and drive but it sounds great, that said I have a problem 

I have hi-low and seem to have all forward gears but I can not grab reverse. I am in low but it is not picking it up. Is there a secret I am missing? 

Think the u joints are perished in the shift linkage Any clue where to get those or a part number for them? The look small so I am thinking they are automotive? 

Well great news. 

After beating the stuffing out of it, I got smart and removed the bendix valve from the housing. Leaving the air hoses attached and tapped the piston up through the floor. Should have done that 2 days ago. 

The irony is the bolts on the top of the valve were the ones I was avoiding because you can not see them. The funny part is from years of grease dripping on them and protecting them, they were little more than finger tight and actually easy to remove. The valve fell off and exposed the bottom of the piston. A couple taps and I was free. 

4 hours ago, MHfred said:

I finally remembered to get you some pictures of my 1989 MH. It sat for 8 or 10 years and needed an injection pump, injectors, turbo, air receiver and of course tire$ and batterie$. It appears you are luckier than I was.

One picture is the front of master disconnect switch and the other is the back of it. The red knob controls it. The other picture is the back of it. I took the picture of the knob with the camera resting on the left front tire and based on your pictures this is about where the solenoid you posted is located. Like Vlad posted the other day, the disconnect kills everything but the starter and alternator and like I posted the other day the circuit breakers  and relays are in the panel in front of the passenger seat. Of course, from 1983 to 1989 things were probably improved.

I sure like the rear cab window that you have. Good luck.

Awesome, thanks that helps 

Do you happen to know if the smaller wire to the 3rd pole (usually the activating pole) is key switched 12v? Mine has a constant 5v but I am thinking that is a short somewhere. 

It does not activate when I put 12v to it though so it might have a bad ground as well. IDK 

Thanks though 

This helps 

On 5/18/2020 at 12:36 PM, Vladislav said:

The brake pin housing and the treadle valve are two different parts. The lower part (valve) is a standard Bendix valve. The top part is a housing with the pin (or plunger) inside and it's special to a MH. R-model has similar part but it's much shorter with shorter pin (and easier to get moving when stuck). The matter is those two parts are connected with 3 screws. You should take them loose or cut. This would allow you to get the upper part off the truck with access to the bottom side of the plunger.

As i remember those two parts are connected to each other having the cab floor in between. So the threadle valve is below the floor and the pin housing inside the cab. i might be wrong on that since we fought this issue already 6 years ago and my helper fixed the truck not me.

I can see what you are referring to, getting that big "pin" to move is not happening so I am debating sep the Bendix valve from the housing or the housing from the floor of the truck.... 

anyone know what this is called? as you can see, mine is perished. 

Seems to be an air distribution block and is probably a standard Bendix part but I can not seem to find anything on it.