Countrylife

Hi All, I am hoping someone has an idea here as I am a bit confused. At some time someone cut the batteries off the truck (4 6volts) and I am adding 2 12v. Here is a diagram of how it is currently wired. I know this is wrong because there are currently 3 neg terminal ends and one positive that goes straight to the starter. I have looked that how other trucks are wired and also looked up a few diagrams but that seem to have different answers to each. First the Owner swears this is a negative ground but I am not so sure. What does appear to be happening is they look to have set it up on 12v and were using jumper cables when starting. If anyone has some clarity I would be appreciative. I think it is supposed to be f1 - 2+ f2 - 1+ f3 - ST2 f4 - 2- ST1 - 1- But I am not certain as the diagrams conflict. What I am certain of is that when we hook it as it is, it tries to melt the last battery terminal we hook up. I get how series parallel works. with one set connected neg to pos and the left over positive going to the truck and left over neg going to ground giving 24v What I am not certain is how the switch is making the connection. It would seem to me it makes it across f1 to f3 but I need to learn a bit more apparently cause I am not certain on this. When I run 12v from a hot to the small post on the rear drivers side of the switch I get a "click" but that does not mean the switch has not failed and hence the goofy readings we get on the OHM meter. Thanks

Let me know how you come out, I am not sure my solution i a real long term one Cheers.

I I have, I did make mine out but here is the info someone sent me So far it is looking like they are as follows, 55RU247 That shows to be the RH thread rod end. The part number changes to 25023498 and the description is "spacer washer." That may be throwing the parts guys off 55RU247P2 That shows to be the LH thread rod end. The number changes to 25023499 and once again is described as a "spacer washer" 17QL278M That shows to be the threaded rod. That number changes to 25022891

That message you got was me

That is Noiiiice!!! anything worth doing is worth doing in 6x6

I agree Mike, I'm just not looking forward to living in it.......

My Wife is gonna beat my A$$$ Call you tomorrow

Sorry I misspoke, will a cruiseliner grill swap or are the too dissimilar?

I might be confused, I thought the MH was fiberglass composite cab and the ultraliner was aluminum cab? If they are the same that widens the search

I am looking hard for one, I did find a guy locally who has some parts, not a ton it sounds like but a few to keep me moving. Does anyone know if the Ultraliner Grill will swap? I have found one of those Thank you so much!! Not too much but it is pretty corroded. Functional for the short term but not really nice looking or all still there...

A quick question but does anyone have contact for a guy named Mike Harbison Someone mentioned he had a few cabovers for parts and was on a few Mack Groups I need several things like heater controls, toolbox doors, pedal assembly, visor etc. Not sure if anyone knows a place for parts but I have talked to a few and they never get back to me. Thanks in advance..

Another Question, On the bottom of the tranny there is an inspection plate missing with a grease zirk on a tube and some sort of shift collar in it. (Hi/Low?) Is it common to remove that plate and leave it off? It seems to have been gone for a while based on the grease on the flange. I am worried some tranny issue got this parked years ago. Thanks

Well, ours have been "Fettled" a bit as well. We put slightly bigger injectors on them. Added blower gears with an extra tooth and bigger turbos out of 8v71s so they make a little more HP. Then we straight piped the exhaust. Does anyone know if the top of the dipstick is supposed to be flush with the pop of the neck? I think the handle fell off ours so I am not sure if it supposed to be down more or flush. Not that overfilling a little will hurt but I do not want to be way over. Now it just kinda sits there.

No, I am thinking that as they have a rack and mechanical injectors, they seem to be set up for Delo and prefer it. Maybe it was just me but I felt that when we ran a different oil, they were not as happy but IDK for certain. I know I love the motors

Thanks, our Detroit's seem a little sensitive but that has to do with the injectors

Anyone have some recommendations on oil for this? Our 6v92's take Delo 100 straight 30wt but I am thinking Delo 400 for this.... 15w40 unless I am way off on something here.

I have been thinking on that, FYI I need several little body and trim pieces. every piece of my grill has a little something broken on it. I wonder about having a replacement made out of polished aluminum or something Would be a pain to cut out but might be a solution. Someday someone will read this and hopefully this will save a bit of searching The thermal fuse (electric breaker) is a Klixon 6766-19-100 $53 from Peerless the Continuous duty Solenoid is a White Rogers 124-906 $39 from Ebay (if you want the exact replacement) U-joint at the bottom of the shift linkage is crosses to a MasterPro 861 (There are tons of subs from different manufacturers) All that said, I am trying to sort the electrical gremlins right now....

Does anyone have a parts book for a 1983 MH 613? I am stumped on the shift linkage ball joints. The larger one I think is just something someone stuffed in there as it was not fitting correctly and the lower one does not seem to match anything I can measure out. I think I should start with what was supposed to be there and go from there. Thanks in advance for the help if anyone has a book. I wanted to buy one but they are few and far between it seems Cheers.

The battery cutoff and the ignition switch are clearly a problem The cuttoff is frozen on and something is leaking heavily to ground. I get 12v from the aluminum step up to the Cab. My seems to be similar to everyone elses it looks like there is a master disconnect on top and a key powered solenoid. I think I will replace those 2 and see what happens. It is difficult to diagnose as there is so much current leaking into the chassis

It runs and DRIVES both directions!! The U joint on the shift linkage is a Rockwell L6N or MOOG 861 if anyone ever need to look Reverse is still tricky to find but it is there, it does not like to be clutched into gears as much at just coerced but that is fine. Will get it out on the road as soon as I get some signals and then the fun can begin. I m excited to start fixing the fun stuff. I was debating on chromed up super singles on the rear but leaning away from it I think they will not do well on the farm and in the snow Other than that I am looking for the grill pieces and on of the toolbox doors. Is there a new2me yard that specializes in these? Cheers.

It would work but yes, extreme caution... trust...... and a new set of shorts!

Not only does it run and drive but it sounds great, that said I have a problem I have hi-low and seem to have all forward gears but I can not grab reverse. I am in low but it is not picking it up. Is there a secret I am missing? Think the u joints are perished in the shift linkage Any clue where to get those or a part number for them? The look small so I am thinking they are automotive?

Well great news. After beating the stuffing out of it, I got smart and removed the bendix valve from the housing. Leaving the air hoses attached and tapped the piston up through the floor. Should have done that 2 days ago. The irony is the bolts on the top of the valve were the ones I was avoiding because you can not see them. The funny part is from years of grease dripping on them and protecting them, they were little more than finger tight and actually easy to remove. The valve fell off and exposed the bottom of the piston. A couple taps and I was free.

Awesome, thanks that helps Do you happen to know if the smaller wire to the 3rd pole (usually the activating pole) is key switched 12v? Mine has a constant 5v but I am thinking that is a short somewhere. It does not activate when I put 12v to it though so it might have a bad ground as well. IDK Thanks though This helps

I can see what you are referring to, getting that big "pin" to move is not happening so I am debating sep the Bendix valve from the housing or the housing from the floor of the truck.... anyone know what this is called? as you can see, mine is perished. Seems to be an air distribution block and is probably a standard Bendix part but I can not seem to find anything on it.