Ditchdiggerjcf

2 hours ago, alex g said:

You can pull air tube off turbo and look at it and try to spin it. Obviously if it has issues spinning by hand there's a issue. Don't worry though you shouldn't have a problem sourcing a used one I have one on shop floor off a 300. 

Any turbo shop should be able to reman pretty cheap.

Nice.

On 5/15/2020 at 3:30 PM, Vladislav said:

Not that easy deal. MH plunger is 4 or 5 times longer than one in a R-model. I had to remove all the top part off the threadle valve and play with it in vise to get the plunger free. Worth to note my parts looked better than in this truck.

Assuming it is the plunger. The shaft freezes in mine.

7 hours ago, Countrylife said:

Well, that pedal plate is killing me, and the electrical is also giving me some problems today. There is a solenoid, pictured that I think might power the cab, no ideal but it looks it has 12.8v to one side and 0 to the other with 9.2v to the small post. I might put a wrench across it and see what happens but I have a feeling something got hot at one time so I wanna take it slow with that one. 

I can get it to start to roll over with ether but not prime iteself so I filled the filters with fresh diesel and waiting for the batteries to charge now. 

Other than that I have been trying to get the pin out of the darn foot pedal to get to the plunger and that has been a challenge. I did put the tage for the motor, not sure what it means I will start looking it up tomorrow. 

As far as the wife, she knows she is apreciated, I am lucky but I feel this truck might cost me at the negotiating table for future disussions. Just Sayin  I think she gets what she wants now.....

 

Do NOT just wail on the end of that pin with a hammer. You will either break the mount or mushroom the head and it will never come out. Put some heat on it and some vise grips on the big and and try to spin it to break it loose.

We used to have 2 or 3 still working around here. I haven't seen them in awhile, so they may be gone.

Wow. It's got camelback. Awesome.

I hate for finding that truck before me.

Brake pedal sticks on mine if I let them sit very long. They are kind of a bitch to break loose again without tearing up the base, but it can be done.

Its not for the faint of heart.

Buy american!

1 hour ago, mowerman said:

thanks i almost tryed those before i bought the bates,,,dont remember why i didnt....bob

Be prepared to open thy wallet for them. American made doesn't come cheap.

We should combine this and the big rears thread.

Are the caps still available?

Awesome beast

The singer and the boots are american made.

What chassis is that?

44k is plenty for a tri.

I am still curious why the axle caps  were leaking. They put duct tape on everyone of them. You can see where they were slinging a little grease.

Sent you a pm.

I am wearing danner quarries now. They wear like iron but are less comfy than my chippewa boots. I am going to give thorogood a whirl next. To hell with china.

1 hour ago, JoeH said:

Been a while since I've looked at cone type axle caps, I think the end is either pressed or welded in. The ends don't do much work.

If they were pressed in that would explain the leaks. 

The cone shaped axle caps in the second pic all seem to be leaking on the ends. How can they leak there?

I would stick my foot in a driver's ass if I caught that idiot cutting holes in my dash.

It doesn't seem to have what you are calling "eagle rails". Only has the trunnion stand.

That big piece is not there, just the trunnion stand.

Trunnion crossmember edge rails?

Ok. I will hit that spot hard with a wire wheel.