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FDNY 343

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Everything posted by FDNY 343

  1. So I took my B-Model out to it’s first show last weekend (since I’ve owned the truck) Fresh fill-up of Ethanol-Free gas and all seemed good, until the ride home. Started spitting, missing and ultimately shut down. After towing back home I checked the NEW fuel filters and they were slam packed with rust and all kinds of junk. I pumped out the tank and even more crap coming out and the “Fresh Gas” was Brown/Rust collored. Dropped the tank and it’s a mess inside, previous owner must have tried some type of tank sealer/liner which has broken down into some wicked chunks, along with carmelized fuel deposits and rust. Fortunately I am able to fabricate a New Alluminum tank, I’m rebuilding the Zenith Carburetor and replacing the Electric Fuel pump and Copper Fuel lines. A few questions, what have you guys used for fuel lines... Stainless? Nylon, Neoprene, or Steel/Copper plated? Other question is what is the proper fuel pressure to go to the Carb? Some of the Fuel Pumps I’m looking at are mentioning the Fuel Pressure they operate at. I’m hoping with a New Fuel System, New Plugs-Wires Cap and upgrading to Electronic Ignitions she’ll run like a champ *fingers crossed* any feedback would be helpful. Thanks
  2. So I took my B-Model out to it’s first show last weekend (since I’ve owned the truck) Fresh fill-up of Ethanol-Free gas and all seemed good, until the ride home. Started spitting, missing and ultimately shut down. After towing back home I checked the NEW fuel filters and they were slam packed with rust and all kinds of junk. I pumped out the tank and even more crap coming out and the “Fresh Gas” was Brown/Rust collored. Dropped the tank and it’s a mess inside, previous owner must have tried some type of tank sealer/liner which has broken down into some wicked chunks, along with carmelized fuel deposits and rust. Fortunately I am able to fabricate a New Alluminum tank, I’m rebuilding the Zenith Carburetor and replacing the Electric Fuel pump and Copper Fuel lines. A few questions, what have you guys used for fuel lines... Stainless? Nylon, Neoprene, or Steel/Copper plated? Other question is what is the proper fuel pressure to go to the Carb? Some of the Fuel Pumps I’m looking at are mentioning the Fuel Pressure they operate at. I’m hoping with a New Fuel System, New Plugs-Wires Cap and upgrading to Electronic Ignitions she’ll run like a champ *fingers crossed* any feedback would be helpful. Thanks
  3. Someone on a B Model page said it was a Vacuum Operated Governor? They pointed out that the screws have security holes in them, I haven't taken the front plate off yet because I didn't know what if anything could possibly come popping out on me....lol....that's my luck
  4. Does anyone know what this rectangular box is at the base of my Zenith Carb. there is a copper tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. I was wondering if it was some kind of automatic choke valve.... once the motor heats up maybe a spring or something opens in base of Carb???
  5. Does anyone know what this rectangular box is at the base of my Zenith Carb. there is a copper tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. I was wondering if it was some kind of automatic choke valve.... once the motor heats up maybe a spring or something opens in base of Carb???
  6. Thank You All, I'm going to look into that Tomorrow
  7. I’m trying to find a blog somewhere here on BMT where a guy updated and swapped out his distributors with HEI ?
  8. I’m trying to find a blog somewhere here on BMT where a guy updated and swapped out his distributors with HEI ?
  9. That was before I found the one I received the other day. But I'd like to find someone that sells them restored just in case....lol
  10. So I've been chasing many Vacuum Leaks on my 1955 B Model Gas motor Rig. I rebuilt a vacuum control diverter valve on the Hale Fire Pump that was leaking like a sieve, I believe I fixed a Vacuum leak going to the Hydrovac Unit for the brakes. I now think I have a Vacuum leak in the Zenith Carburetor which I believe could be worn Vacuum Pistons of the Governor Throttle or the Vacuum Controlled Pump Piston of the accelerator pump. Either way I guess I have to rebuild the Carb, which leads me to my question... Are there any Complete Rebuild Kits out there? Are there any Rebuilt Carburetors out there? I've been all over the internet and have come up empty, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jimmy K 1955 Mack B85 Thermadyne Fire Engine
  11. So I've been chasing many Vacuum Leaks on my 1955 B85 Thermadyne Gas motor Fire Engine. I rebuilt a vacuum control diverter valve on the Hale Fire Pump that was so dry rotted and leaking like a sieve, I believe I fixed a Vacuum leak going to the Hydrovac Unit for the brakes. I now think I have a Vacuum leak in the Zenith Carburetor which I believe could be worn Vacuum Pistons of the Governor Throttle or the Vacuum Controlled Pump Piston of the accelerator pump. Either way I guess I have to rebuild the Carb, which leads me to my question... Are there any Complete Rebuild Kits out there? Are there any Rebuilt Carburetors out there? I've been all over the internet and have come up empty, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jimmy K 1955 Mack B85 Thermadyne Fire Engine
  12. It appears to be, I was just reading on another thread about having to bleed a Hydrovac? Is that the tank on the Drivers side that the 1 brake line off the Master goes to? Is there a bleeding procedure for that? Someone said bleed that first, then go to furthest wheel cylinder which would be passenger side rear I would imagine and start bleeding from there. I'm unfamiliar with the Hydrovac System if that is in fact what is on this truck. I just assumed they were Hydraulic/Mechanical.
  13. I didn't have it running when I bled them. I used the Venturi vacuum system from Harbor Freight to bleed each line. I kept topping off the master as I went along. Some brown crappy fluid came out and it appeared that overall the flushing of the system went well. Prior to starting it I topped off the master again, started her up, released the emergency brake and pushed on the brake peddle (Rig was running) and to the floor it went. I tried pumping it a few times but it didn't work..... no brakes. I looked again at each wheel and under the truck and I don't see any fluid leaks.
  14. I was able to get a new Master Cylinder from NAPA, I installed it today, did a vacuum of bleed on each wheel, topped of the master, started her up and when I hit the brake pedal .... to the floor it went. No Brakes, I tried pumping them a few times, looked under the rig....no leaks that I can see.... Still No Brakes. I'm going to try the old school brake bleeding tomorrow and see what happens. Any thoughts or ideas what else could be the problem ? How exactly does the vacuum canister work in the braking system ?
  15. Yes jhancock that’s the one. NAPA was able to find it, should be here in the morning. Now for Brake Shoes, Drums and Muffler and both Pipes ~ Head / Tail pipes. We have a few truck shops here, Is there anything online that I can go to and order a Muffler package? What do you guys do? Thanks for all your input and advice, much needed.
  16. Yes you’re correct, FE 777 but not showing anything at NAPA
  17. Yarnall ~ I'm going to try Napa tomorrow, 41chevy I tried uploading a picture of it a few times but the system keeps telling me failed. Anyway the molded number in the side say's CG 27 I assumed that was the model number....No?
  18. Hi All, Going over my 1955 Model B85 rig for the first time I realized the Master Cylinder was empty. I filled it and went around to bleed all the brakes. All was good, pedal felt high and firm. Came in the garage this afternoon and there was a puddle under the Master Cylinder area, I checked the Master and it was empty. Upon further inspection I noticed it was leaking from under the front boot are. I pulled the Master and took it apart to check it out and came to find the cap (which didn't fit well at all) must have allowed for years of debris to get into the brake fluid chamber which made it's way down into the piston area, it was almost a 1/4 filled with sludge, piston had sludge all over etc.. I started to clean everything and now have found pitting in the piston area, the piston and a few other areas. I was wondering if anyone has any of these for sale or know where to get one if possible. It's a Wagner Lockheed CG27. Any help would be much appreciated
  19. Hi All, I have a 1955 B85 Fire Engine, going over my rig for the first time I realized the Master Cylinder was empty. I filled it and went around to bleed all the brakes. All was good, pedal felt high and firm. Came in the garage this afternoon and there was a puddle under the Master Cylinder area, I checked the Master and it was empty. Upon further inspection I noticed it was leaking from under the front boot are. I pulled the Master and took it apart to check it out and came to find the cap (which didn't fit well at all) must allowed for years of debris to get into the brake fluid chamber which made it's way down into the piston area, it was almost a 1/4 filled with sludge, piston had sludge all over etc.. I started to clean everything and now have found pitting in the piston area, the piston and a few other areas. I was wondering if anyone has any of these for sale or know where to get one if possible. It's a Wagner Lockheed CG27. Any help would be much appreciated.
  20. Could I see some other pictures and do you have any idea what you want to get for them
  21. I can’t figure out why my truck runs rough and stumbling, chugging whenever I start it and stays running like that for 2-3 minutes then all of a sudden purrs like a kitten and runs smooth like a fine oiled machine. It reminds me of a vacuum leak or something opening or closing when it gets to a certain temperature it activate something and she smooths right out. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on what to check? Come to think about it, I’ve only started it in the “B” position for batteries and ignition toggle switches on the dash. But that still does’nt make sense. I changed all the spark plugs today.... Heavy Wetish Black soot/crud build up. Haven’t checked or changed Cap/Rotor/Points etc. Truck has been sitting not run for over a year until I bought it a few weeks ago. Anyone else experience this? Thanks ~ Jimmy
  22. I can’t figure out why my truck runs rough and stumbling, chugging whenever I start it and stays running like that for 2-3 minutes then all of a sudden purrs like a kitten and runs smooth like a fine oiled machine. It reminds me of a vacuum leak or something opening or closing when it gets to a certain temperature it activate something and she smooths right out. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on what to check? Come to think about it, I’ve only started it in the “B” position for batteries and ignition toggle switches on the dash. But that still does’nt make sense. I changed all the spark plugs today.... Heavy Wetish Black soot/crud build up. Haven’t checked or changed Cap/Rotor/Points etc. Truck has been sitting not run for over a year until I bought it a few weeks ago. Anyone else experience this? Thanks ~ Jimmy
  23. Do you have any idea where or what my Trucks history is B85F1107

    2D0D681A-AC8B-46F3-8927-71A551928331.jpeg

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