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220cummins

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Posts posted by 220cummins

  1. M-drive/I-shift still has a clutch it's just automated.

    As a fleet owner, the value of an automated transmission is fantastic. Higher initial cost but repairs almost eliminated. And clutches!!!

    And I think most sensible drivers would prefer it once they try it. I would be hard pressed to give up my I-shift now.

    I'll get off my soapbox now lol sorry I can't help you much with the technical aspects of a swap.

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

    M-drive/I-shift still has a clutch it's just automated. The automated trans is way more costly compared to a manual when it comes time for replacement but with 7 year 750k warranty it's well worth it. The downfall is coasting or moving them without the truck running, a few feet and the trans is toast. I just replaced a m-drive a couple weeks ago because an oil filter blew off the engine and the driver coasted to the shoulder...
  2. Here are some pictures (credit to the copywrite holder) of Eazors R and F models they ran. At one time they were a big outfit and a big Mack user. I've heard many, not so nice, stories about Eazor. They ran during a couple steel hauler strikes moving steel and were not taken fondly of. Carrying around a rebar for poking radiators or a bottle of Clorox for dumping in fuel tanks was not unheard of and was practiced. I knew some old timers who took part in these activities. I also knew the a driver/mechanic who's task was to go around in Eazor's territory picking up vandalized tractors during that era and pulling them back to Pittsburgh on a lowboy. He always said they could never figure out what seized up those Detriots. The Clorox that's what haha.

    post-262-0-90689300-1456200195.jpg

    post-262-0-68180900-1456200205_thumb.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. Were the injectors checked for aeration, balance, and compression? Some have complained of engine/driveline vibration in the MP's and its the injectors. I test drove a Volvo with the D13 (mp8) that had a bad vibration and miss. Diagnosed injectors and when removed them found two had the tips broken off. No MIL or codes were present.

    • Like 1
  4. Go with the older, simpler E7, IMHO. If I may relate my experience this evening, it may help you decide...

    First time in the 3 years I have worked for Brothers Auto Transport, I decided to go to work on a Sunday evening, just to get a head start on the short week, and help out, since we are so busy. Leave the house, 20 minutes to the yard, pop the hood,check the fluids, fire up the VOLVO, got a check engine light for "COOLANT CRITICALLY LOW". OK, pop the hood AGAIN, coolant right to level in the tank, mess with the sensor plug & wire in the rain & muddy yard, can't figure it out, not really my job. Long story short, no mechanic until 4am, so I am back home until they figure it out in the morning. I can't go to work, and lose 1 load this week because of an electronic faulty sensor. Not happy.

    With issues like this, plus the new logbook mandate, I am more confident than ever moving forward with my 30 year old MH E7. Technology sucks lol.

    Gregg

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

    Tap the coolant jug with a rubber mallet, that usually does the trick.

    On that note. The newer MP engines are smoother and more powerful than before. A non dpf MP7 is night and day compared to an AC/AI. The downfall of the MP is the cups/injectors, EATS component issues, and little issues like Underdog's story. I personally prefer a pre-2004 all Mack granite. The 460's I've driven have some crack and pull nice. I'd take a Mack trans over an eaton anyday although a 8LL is a decent trans. I think the Mack shifts better. If your off-road more than highway you can't go wrong with Mack rears on camelback, they are simplistic and have been proven forever. That being said if the bugs ever get worked out of the MPs they will be no joke.

  5. If all what everyone has prescribed hasn't worked try a port-a-power from the frame to the edge of the drum. Apply some pressure then spin the drum and repeat as necessary. Soak it with pb blaster or any other penetrating oil. You could also use some heat on the face of the drum where it seats on the hub to expand the drum and hit it with a heavy hammer.

  6. Yeah you might bet a sound of a boost leak when this is happening intermittently. That's what these two trucks were doing as well. No codes were present. Also check the stalk stick wiring harness in the steering column for chaffing. I've seen one other that was dropping out like that on a CXU and that was an issue.

    • Like 1
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