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Posts posted by 220cummins
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Here's a link to the Eazor terminal getting built in the 50s.
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Here are some pictures (credit to the copywrite holder) of Eazors R and F models they ran. At one time they were a big outfit and a big Mack user. I've heard many, not so nice, stories about Eazor. They ran during a couple steel hauler strikes moving steel and were not taken fondly of. Carrying around a rebar for poking radiators or a bottle of Clorox for dumping in fuel tanks was not unheard of and was practiced. I knew some old timers who took part in these activities. I also knew the a driver/mechanic who's task was to go around in Eazor's territory picking up vandalized tractors during that era and pulling them back to Pittsburgh on a lowboy. He always said they could never figure out what seized up those Detriots. The Clorox that's what haha.
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Yep I've seen these on penn dot trucks and pa turnpike trucks
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Bearing number can cross and seal number can cross
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Curious have you had any injector or cup problems with the mp10; or is it just mp8 with the problem
It has been in mp7s as well.
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It is the same setup everybody uses today in front of the radiator.
I understand that. I just wanted to see mounting, piping, and cooler style.
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Were the injectors checked for aeration, balance, and compression? Some have complained of engine/driveline vibration in the MP's and its the injectors. I test drove a Volvo with the D13 (mp8) that had a bad vibration and miss. Diagnosed injectors and when removed them found two had the tips broken off. No MIL or codes were present.
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- Popular Post
Not to change the subject. It was the first aluminum cabover from Mack. Then came the Cruiseliner. My dad owner a 62 g75 that had 220cummins (he turbo it 262) 14 quadruplex 38k rears on camelback. He loved that truck. It was almost identical to Doug Maneys G. He bought it after it repowered and tag axle added. He had to have it dyno'd at Pittsburgh Mack because the weight laws changed at the time and required a minimum brake horsepower to get the 73,280. He went on to turbo it and put the full screw under it from a f model. My user name on here is because of that truck. Coincidently I work in the same building and same bay that the dyno used to be in and has since been removed, or so I've been told.
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Is like to see the chassis mount cooler setup if anyone has pics or such.
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That looks like that was onsite at a rig. That's a pretty penny. I know FTS (Frac-Tech) has a ton of CHU up this way.
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Very cool! Any pictures around of them?
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Woah! Glad to hear that everyone is ok. Thoughts and prayers sent your way!
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The first four gears so you mean you can only shift in low range? Are you able to get it into high range?
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What did they do to the MP8 to get 800HP
http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/42392-new-mhd-crew-cab/
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My b-61 has that one on it. The rad setup was out of a b-61sx
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Is the discharge line from the compressor supplying air? Disconnect and check to see if the compressor is building air.
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There currently a recall for epdm replacements like challenger described SCO375.
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A headache.
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Go with the older, simpler E7, IMHO. If I may relate my experience this evening, it may help you decide...
First time in the 3 years I have worked for Brothers Auto Transport, I decided to go to work on a Sunday evening, just to get a head start on the short week, and help out, since we are so busy. Leave the house, 20 minutes to the yard, pop the hood,check the fluids, fire up the VOLVO, got a check engine light for "COOLANT CRITICALLY LOW". OK, pop the hood AGAIN, coolant right to level in the tank, mess with the sensor plug & wire in the rain & muddy yard, can't figure it out, not really my job. Long story short, no mechanic until 4am, so I am back home until they figure it out in the morning. I can't go to work, and lose 1 load this week because of an electronic faulty sensor. Not happy.
With issues like this, plus the new logbook mandate, I am more confident than ever moving forward with my 30 year old MH E7. Technology sucks lol.
Gregg
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Tap the coolant jug with a rubber mallet, that usually does the trick.
On that note. The newer MP engines are smoother and more powerful than before. A non dpf MP7 is night and day compared to an AC/AI. The downfall of the MP is the cups/injectors, EATS component issues, and little issues like Underdog's story. I personally prefer a pre-2004 all Mack granite. The 460's I've driven have some crack and pull nice. I'd take a Mack trans over an eaton anyday although a 8LL is a decent trans. I think the Mack shifts better. If your off-road more than highway you can't go wrong with Mack rears on camelback, they are simplistic and have been proven forever. That being said if the bugs ever get worked out of the MPs they will be no joke.
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Cooling package protection.
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At least it's off. On the next one back the slack adjuster all the way off until you can see daylight the edge of face of the lining and the worn lip.
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If all what everyone has prescribed hasn't worked try a port-a-power from the frame to the edge of the drum. Apply some pressure then spin the drum and repeat as necessary. Soak it with pb blaster or any other penetrating oil. You could also use some heat on the face of the drum where it seats on the hub to expand the drum and hit it with a heavy hammer.
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Yeah you might bet a sound of a boost leak when this is happening intermittently. That's what these two trucks were doing as well. No codes were present. Also check the stalk stick wiring harness in the steering column for chaffing. I've seen one other that was dropping out like that on a CXU and that was an issue.
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http://www.roadranger.com/rr/CustomerSupport/Support/Calculators/index.htm
I used this when I decided to make my RT a RTO. I know it's a road ranger site but you enter you specs to determine road speed.
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manual eaton fuller to an autoshift eaton fuller
in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
Posted
M-drive/I-shift still has a clutch it's just automated.
M-drive/I-shift still has a clutch it's just automated. The automated trans is way more costly compared to a manual when it comes time for replacement but with 7 year 750k warranty it's well worth it. The downfall is coasting or moving them without the truck running, a few feet and the trans is toast. I just replaced a m-drive a couple weeks ago because an oil filter blew off the engine and the driver coasted to the shoulder...