ivanuke

9 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

Usually a Mack tractor will have a 12,000 rated front axle and 40,000 pound rated rear axle, but the Texas weight limit on the tandem is 34,000. Texas will sell you a permit for 10% over on the axles which would allow you 37,400 on the tandem but the front axle is limited by it's 12,000 pound rating, so the heaviest you can run provided your within bridge formula is 49.400, so no point in licensing for over that. With that 12 yard box I hope your loads are light, wet soil car run 3000 pounds a yard and would probably push your load well over legal weight and invoke a liability for that HUT you're trying to avoid. You're doing it the hard way, easier to start with a real dump truck.

I agree I would like to have all purpose built dump trucks, one of my macks is but it was expensive, but in order to grow my fleet and remain competitive in terms of driver pay/profits, I have to purchase used tractors from the auction sites and equip them with dump boxes (they will work perfectly fine for our business). The loads are light, the supply company is liable for over loading us so they are light loads. Dirt hauling in Houston is tough and competitive, the rates are 50-55hr or 500-600 per day. The goal is to have 5 trucks in total. I can't justify paying 50-60k for granites or similar dump trucks. 

4 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

Are you adding a pusher axle on these trucks?

No pusher axle. My trucks are registered at 52k and 54k. Anything more than 55.9k I believe I have to pay highway tax which I don't need to, I don't go over 54k for my business needs. Occasionally I will haul some crushed concrete but it is rare.

1 hour ago, JoeH said:

Unless of course they're single axle dumps and the dump bodies have their own subframe that disperses the hoist cylinder point load.

Youre correct, the dump bodies have their own subframe thats also mounted on the chassis. 

2 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

Keep in mind that the typical road tractor has only a 1/4" single frame, a 12,000 pound rated front axle, 40,000 pound rear axles, and an optimistic 52,000 pound GVW rating, and an air ride rear suspension that doesn't provide enough articulation for off road use. It'll work as a dump truck if you stay well within those limitations, but to be competitive in most areas of the country a dump truck needs at least a 60,000 pound GVW.

Thank you for that info. In Houston my trucks only haul about 12 tons of select fill to various construction sites, theyre on the road 80% of the time during transport, the other 20% or so loading/dumping at the construction sites. At the loading sites they regularly repair the entrances so its not harsh on the chassis. My biggest issues are the drivers. 

On 9/8/2019 at 8:24 PM, Maxidyne said:

Are you thinking of converting a tractor to a straight dump truck?

Yes I plan to start manufacturing my own dump boxes, so I'm looking to convert tractor to dump trucks.

16 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

If you're looking at a used truck just buy one with an automatic, it'll cost more and be a bunch of headaches to convert one from a manual. The Allison is the best, especially if you're doing a lot of work on site or in the city.

Thanks for the response, the reason i was considering a conversion is because I want to fit the best automatic (trouble free) transmission to my dump truck with cammel back suspension. I could buy used but i have not been able to find this combination! Hell i cant even find any used macks with allisons in them for that year range. 

Are there any AMT or fully automatic transmissions that work with the E7 Etech and Aset motors? Im looking at the eaton ultrashift, but dont know if it will work with these motors. Or what is involved to make this conversion if possible.

I have a small fleet of 12yard dump trucks, All Mack CH613s 2001-2007 Range currently with Eaton Fuller/Maxitorque transmission. I am currently building my fleet and hope to have 2 more trucks by the end of the year. We haul dirt mainly to construction sites in the Houston, TX area and good drivers are hard to find, so I am considering getting one AMT or AT to test in our fleet as there are a lot more drivers that can drive automatics vs 10/13spds properly.

I understand the complexity of the AMT and ATs, lots of mixed reviews on them, but would like to try one for myself if there are any out there. 

Hey guys, I have a 2005 CHN613 with a Maxitroque 13 speed. When using the splitter I'm able to get into high gear, but when I go back down the splitter doesnt activate. I have to press harder on the splitter for it to engage. I believe It needs to be replaced. I was able to remove the single 11/16 nut on the shifter knob and remove it, but i'm not quite sure how to fully open it and remove the lines and inspect it maybe I can fix on my own. If theres any advice on how to properly remove the shifter knob Id appreciate it! Thank you.

Here is a link to the type of shifter I have. This listing says 18 speed but I have a 13 speed.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Mack-18-Speed-Transmission-Shift-Knob-T2180-20qe3336a-3767/10013726229

On 5/18/2019 at 4:49 PM, Mack Technician said:

Did you fix yours without replacing the dash cluster?

Yes I was lucky enough to have a dash cluster with a date code that did not require replacing. It was an easy fix. 

What year is your CH613? I have a 2001 that the dash goes crazy and beeps with the seatbelt indicator coming on. I think there is a technical service bulletin (SB-732-005) about rerouting the grounding wire to fix this issue. If that doesnt work try unplugging the connector and clean it our with electrical contact cleaner on both the connector and the gauge cluster. Just google the service bulletin number and it should come up.

20 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

I see your 2001 schematics for sale on Mack E-Media for $54. Oddly, they are $22 for a 2000. Must be because of chassis mating. They group CL with CH on pre-2001 then the conversion occurs and chassis-groups CH with CX in 2001. 01’ is a 6 pc set. 

I see that as well now. I'll place an order for that. I also have a 2005 CHN613 but do not see an option to select CHN, only CHU. Hopefully the schematic I purchased originally is the right schematic for my other truck. Thanks again for the help.

35 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

Go to your dealership at 8PM with a flat of white printer paper. Ask the night foreman/service writer to print off the wiring diagrams or allow you access to print them off. If your a customer they should oblige. If they do it, come back with a large flat of bakery. Tips and food make you an “A list” customer. Night shifters at a dealership are the most under appreciated creatures on earth. 

lol Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated!

On 5/9/2019 at 3:04 PM, Mack Technician said:

This is the diagram for your truck reverse circuit. Go to Fuse (FU42) 42 in the right upper corner and follow flow.

Reverse Circuit.pdf 191.83 kB · 5 downloads

Thank you for the schematic. Where could I obtain the full diagram?

Hello, Ive contacted my local mack dealer (Vanguard) and they were not very helpful in determining the correct item to purchase to obtain an electrical schematic for my truck. I also contacted mack directly with no response. Hopefully someone here can chime in.

I purchased this from the mack eMedia center

I have a 2001 CH613 E7 E-Tech with an Eaton Fuller FRO15210C that recently was removed to replace a rear main seal by a mechanic, ever since the reinstall when I go into reverse the green PTO light comes on and the truck won’t go past 1200 RPM this did not happen before. The mechanic doesn’t know what’s going on and I can’t seem to figure it out, has anyone else experienced this Issue?

Thanks

Thank you for the reply. I think I may have found the problem. I disassembled the quick release valve supply inlet and found the rubber diaphram had a hole in it. I cut a piece of rubber the same size and put it in its place. It seems to be working fine now. The auto parts store is closed today so I will have to buy a replacement valve in the morning.

Another thing to mention is, when I have the yellow valve pushed in, I have a constant supply of air coming into the R14 from the quick release valve balance port. I disconnected the supply port from the QR valve and that is supplying the air. Im not sure if this is normal operation, or if there is a diapharm between supply and balance that is torn, but this is whats causing the leak i think.

Hey guys, im having an issue with my air brake relay valve on my 2005 Mack CHN613 that I can't seem to figure out.

When I release the air brakes (push in yellow valve) I get a constant exhaust leak out of my relay valve. When I apply the foot brakes the exhaust leaks stops, and when I pull the yellow valve the leak stops as well. I cant figure out what might be causing this constant exhaust leak.

I have an R-14H relay vave from Bendix. I replaced all the interals (O-Rings, Piston, Spring) and I am still having this issue. 

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Thanks very much Mackpro! I was able to adjust the plungers and got the full travel I needed, my steering gear had manual adjuster screws. Thank you thank you thank you!

Hello guys. I have a problem with my 2001 CH613 with a sheppard m100 steering pump. I lifted the front of the truck and turned the wheels and they have full range. When I put the truck back down, when I turn to the right, the wheel only turns about half way. I don't know what the issue could be. When I have a full load of dirt and I turn, I feel the steering wheel want to jerk to the opposite direction and I have to hold really tight to keep it from doing that. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

6 hours ago, br549 said:

That looks like it will work on a old 2 valve where the injector is on the outside of the valve cover with the one that is on it in the picture.  remove that one.  The other ones is what you use, one is fine thread and I think that one is the one you use on the E tech engine, it should be the same thread as the threads on the injector hold down nut you take out of the head.  The other one that is coarse thread was the early E-7 or E6 injector hold down nut.

Thank you for the clarification! I didn't realize the plugs had two threads on them! Kind of hard to tell from the photo. 

Ok I identified where the nozzle comes out of, initially it was hard to see the plug because of oil but i hit myself in the head for not paying more attention!

My only question now is, the adapter comes with a flange and two nuts. Not sure where these tie into to keep the adapter from popping out? 

Hello Guys, noobie question here. I want to perform a compression test on my 2001 E7 E-Tech 355/380. My truck is blowing white smoke and the coolant tank goes empty every few months. I think there is a problem where the engine is burning the coolant. 

I found an adapter online for the E7 Etech to perform the compression test, but I'm not sure where it plugs into to create a seal. 

I followed the injector tubing from the EUP to the cylinder head and removed the valve cover to take a look, and I wasnt able to identify where I can plug into to perform the test, do I have to remove the rocker arm assembly to get to the nozzle?  Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

16 minutes ago, nwfs600 said:

If the Mercedes uses the same Bosch unit pump as the Mack then I don't see much block showing in the bore. The moving part of the unit pump has a oil hole in it that I built a puller to get out. W.W. Williams gave up on one of our Mercedes OM 460's so I had to take care of it. Did this unit pump eat the roller?

Im not sure if I understand the not "much block showing in the bore statement". Can you please elaborate? Im not exactly sure of how it failed. But I do know I have the bottom piece of the roller sleeve just wiggling around in the bore, I cant pull it out even with a powerful magnet. 

Hello guys, I finally got around to doing some more research as to what happened to my engine. The roller sleeve looks to have broken off from its base, and the bottom half is stuck inside the bore. The bore looks to be slightly damaged, I can run my finger down the bore and feel the damage, its slightly scratched near where the break happened, im sure a new sleeve can slide in and out with ease. Is this repairable or do I need another cylinder block? Below is a picture of where the roller sleeve broke.