ivanuke

17 minutes ago, Truck Shop said:

On the early FRO's the shift fork in the rear section was held in place with a snap ring, those are known to break. You will have to remove the transmission and remove the top cover/shift bar housing. You will be able to see the shift fork

and shift bar. Snap ring goes on end of shift bar. It's a simple fix. I have repaired several for that problem.

Thank you for that information. I looked at the manual and it looks like the shift fork for the reverse is also for first gear, but my first gear engages fine and im able to shift into another gear fine as well. Would this still be likely cause of a fail snap ring for the 1st/reverse shift fork?

Hey guys I'm having an issue with my 2001 CH613, its got an Eaton fuller FRO-15210c that does not go into neutral or reverse gear. I can go into any other gear. Here is a bit of troubleshooting info:

Air tanks take a long time to build pressure, and leak off within 5 minutes but cant hear any air leaks.

I have to start the truck with the clutch engaged or else it moves forward.

The shifter is physically in the neutral position but still has the last gear engaged

The range selector will shift from high to low gear even when gear is engaged. The shift sounds very weak (Maybe air module?)

I somehow got the truck into neutral one time and idling without holding down the clutch, but as soon as I lifted the splitter, a gear engaged and jerked the truck forward. Can no longer go into neutral and i cant repeat this behavior. 

I can clutch and shift into any of the low or high gears no problem using the splitter, i verified its going into all other gears because i creep forward at different speeds.

Truck does not engage reverse switch so no siren or reverse lights (cant go into the gear so this is probably a given)

The transmission has a plug where the neutral switch is (I guess its not needed for this model?)

Any help or advice is appreciated!

When I decided to build my small fleet  of dump trucks. I chose to stay in the 2001-2007 Range to avoid the DPF and regen stuff that I hear people have problems with and to make it easier to build a knowledge base so I can do my own repairs (older trucks do need more maintenance and repairs, but i saw this as an opportunity to learn). I currently have 4 Macks and will have a few more next year, for the price of a newer mack (2013+) I could purchase two 2001-2007 range trucks and with the help of this wonderful forum and other resources, one can stay on top of breakdowns and repairs. I think the key to successfully run older trucks is to build a knowledge base of your equipment, repairs can eat your bank account for breakfast if you aren't careful. Being resourceful, handy, and hard working you can reduce downtime and repair costs. Its almost a must to do your own repairs on older equipment. Part of the reason going to older trucks is to save money, and if you constantly take it to the repair shop, you may not profit. 

The ECM has a self learning capabilities and it might be possible the ECM reprogrammed  itself when the values of a disconnected pressure sensor when you turned it on. It self calibrates, I'm not saying thats the case but It might be something to look into. There is service bulletin PV776-89064958 for replacing the sensor. While your sensor may not need to be replaced, you may have to take it to someone that can reset the parameters. Here is a paragraph from the service bulletin. Technically it shouldnt reset itself but anything can happen when it comes to hardware/software.

"Due to the electronic control module’s self-learning capabilities, it is necessary to reset the learned data parameters after replacing or servicing certain components. This allows the electronic control module to calibrate itself to the new component. Using Tech Tool, perform Calibrations 2549-07- 03-01 Function Monitoring Parameters, reset the parameter related to the component replaced or serviced."

Does anyone know if the cabins are the same between 2001-2007 CH613s and CV713 except for the hood? I am looking to purchase a wrecked CV713 and can only find CH613 cabins for sell for replacement. The damage is the roof of the cabin was smashed and I am wondering if I can chop the roof from a CH613 and replace the roof of the damaged CV713. I have a few CH613s and 1 CV713 back home but im unable to verify as I am out of town, looking to purchase this wrecked CV713 before returning home! Thanks for the help.

I have a 2005 CHN613 that started shooting oil out of the air dryer whenever the compressor reached max PSI and leaving oil circle stains on the floor. I'm not familiar with this problem should I replace the air dryer or could is this signs that my compressor is going bad? It still builds pressure fine and when I manually drain the air tanks nothing but air comes out and a little bit of moisture at first. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

Here is a link to the diagnostic code 1-6 troubleshooting steps. The manual is free to download from mack. Simply click the View File link in the description and it should download.

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6156

On Page 101 of the document (112 of the PDF) it shows you the starter circuit followed by some troubleshooting steps that might help you find the problem. The top half of figure 92 is for your CV713. Ignore the bottom half circuit its for other models

35 minutes ago, Deere Mack said:

Proprietary rights are legally confusing and seem to have loop holes. I've often wondered why someone hasn't developed such for all the big boy toys.

I think the only proprietary thing is the actual diagnostic software, and how it implements with the manufacturers documentation/parts catalog like Impact or any other software bells and wistles their software has. The SAE 1708/1587 standards are not proprietary, you can actually purchase the standard from SAE and read just how every parameter has to communicate. If the diagnostics were truly proprietary down to the design on the ECU, nobody but the vehicle manufacterer would be able to make diagnostic software/hardware. I believe the DOT mandated heavy vehicle manufacterers adopt this standard in order to prevent such things from happening.

There is the "hackster" community that has been growing very rapidly in he past 10 years with the introduction of very cheap microcontrollers iike the arduino and rasperry pi boards. A lot of open source software and hardware makes it possible to make these "toys" with a little know how for very low cost. that ELM325 chip is only $10! Pretty crazy if you ask me

13 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Sounds like you need to start a how-to thread for the benefit of Mack posterity. 

In the blog post there is reference to a chip called the ELM325. It has a 31 page data sheet that goes into detail on how to use the chip. It even goes on to explain how to “simulate” the chip as an ECU to send data. The ELM is a serial communication chip that can talk to the J1708/J1587 bus on our ECUs. Using an arduino microcontroller and some serial write commands you can “clone” messages to be sent to the vehicle ECU via the ELM325 lets say in the event you “lost” your EGR ECU. 
 

to write a how to would be way too in depth, but With that information and some good ole google searches should help people be on their way to manipulating values. I’d be happy to answer any questions if people pm me directly.

2 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

It seems like a lot of work to get basic “read only” information? Be curious to see if you could navigate deep enough to do something interactive.....perimeter adjustment. 

You definetly can, I made a comment on an old EGR delete thread. *ahem*

On 7/16/2017 at 7:52 AM, Mackpro said:

I tried the resistor thing along time ago and could not get it right. I've seen lots of homemade delet's done but still sets the low EGR flow code going down the road. This is the best thing I have seen on the internet so far . https://otrperformance.com/product/mack-aset-ac-egr-performance/

Just a wild thought, and In no way am I saying anyone should try this and get into EPA trouble, but wouldnt removing the EGR ECU bus lines VJ3-1E-0.8 and VJ3-2F-0.5 to the EECU and VECU and connecting an j1708 integrated circuit and a little arduino hexadecimal coding magic give the precise "data" the EECU is looking for. Just a thought. The VMAC III Service manual has all the PID data of where one might want to write certain bits of data to.

Ah, after doing some readings I've come across some DIY methods with creating your own J1708/J1587 interface and displaying the data. I know most are in the few thousands of dollars. I found this super helpful blog someone made back in 2014 that I think is incredible information. Thankfully i understand most of this as im an engineer by trade, I will give this a shot! The blogger used this to interface with his motor home, but it should not be any different for our Macks on J1587.

The VMAC III User manual has a table how to access the data from the ECU, Hopefully I can pull a few IDs and display the relevent data I am looking for.

http://j1587scanner.blogspot.com/2014/08/how-to-build-j1587-data-scanner-for.html

Hey guys I came across this article and wonder if it is true? Or just a way for diesellaptops to get my information. If this is true how can I go through mack directly.

https://blog.diesellaptops.com/2018/03/08/free-v-mac-iii-diagnostic-software/

On 3/4/2019 at 3:08 PM, OldRedMack said:

If possible, keep the studs soaked in penetrating fluid for a couple days before you try to remove the manifold.

Something to add, I came across SB214048 - Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal - ASET Engines in case someone does break a stud doing the manifold removal, according to the bulletin, the studs are too hard for conventional stud removal methods and this procedure could save from having to buy another cylinder head.. Hope this helps anyone!

SB214048 - Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal - ASET Engines.pdf

1 minute ago, Mack Technician said:

It’s equipped as a dump?

Not currently, It just has a 5th wheel on it now. I purchased it to convert to a dump truck. Will be making my own box as soon as its delivered.

On 10/28/2019 at 11:49 AM, Mack Technician said:

Scroll back to page 1 and click AI link. It’s a step by step. Don’t be too quick to go tuner till you get your hard parts converted as per thread. PM Mackpro with your vin and he may be able to check your software level. 

 

I have to say that link was an absolute treat to see. I just purchased a 2007 CV713 with a AMI 370 10spd with camelback suspension from an auction. It hasnt arrived yet but I am super excited about getting it in top shape wit the help from your infomation. I am curious if my engine has had the software upgrade? I paid 9k for it at auction and im starting to feel like I got lucky! It has 313k miles. 

Edit: Realized I have to PM MackPro and ask about software.

17 hours ago, 1965 said:

Why wouldn’t you just drove it home? Take a little longer & little extra fuel but cheaper than hauling 

I don't know if these trucks are registered, or if they are safe to drive. You're allowed to inspect the vehicles the morning of the auction, I would like to be prepared if it can't be driven, but I will if its possible.

On 9/18/2019 at 4:43 PM, Mack Technician said:

If you bid $13K you won’t beat Manders Diesel. They’ll be bidding on that unit. 

The auction ended at 8K. I did not bid because I would have had to pay too much in transport. On another hand I will bid on some in Texas in October. But if they got that truck, what a deal!

Question about transporation, is it legal to haul a tractor trailer like the CH613 on a gooseneck to a Ram 3500 as long as the weight limits are met and the truck does not exceed the trailer. 

12 hours ago, JoeH said:

Diesel is about 3.10 up here, driver hourly rates are $20-25 or so I believe.

What's important is that you're making money; just be careful on 30/60/90/120 day pay, it's all well and good til the economy tanks and you're left hanging for 3 months worth of unpaid invoices.

Sounds like your an effective entrepreneur! Keep it up!

Thank you, were fortunate enough that our customers usually pay within 7 days. Our drivers make 35% of whatever the truck makes for the day and have a guaranteed minimum every week. It has worked out so far.

10 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

$18,000 because it’s ASET AC and it’s a Northwoods Salty Dog. Like to see the frame up close. Much as your putting on it you want good metal retention.

Is the ASET AC a not desirable? I have the AC427 in my 2005, aside from an occasional diagnostic code for the EUP that tends to come and go when it wants, Its been working great for over 3 years. 400k miles. Thanks for the heads up on the frame, I didnt consider that. We don't have those issues down here so it slipped my mind. I will bid 13k and try my luck, after taxes, fees, and delivery, it would be closer to 18k.

On another note, if I win the truck and the transmission ends up not working out, could I disconnect everything and install an eaton fuller 10 speed? Or would the bell housing, sensors, etc need to be changed as well.

I think I found a good truck at a RB auction, could someone help me identify what type of A/T this one might have? Also what do you guys think this truck is worth based on photos? I would not have time to go inspect. Given that information what would you guys bid?

https://www.rbauction.com/2004-mack-ch613-day-cab-truck-tractor-ta?invId=11516000&id=ci&auction=minneapolis-mn-2019294&utm_source=www.ironplanet.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=syndication

I realized photos might not appear on mobile devices. So i've attached two. Thanks.

7 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

The one you can’t see well looks like a rawhide without the sleeper.....

Its a 2005 CHN613 not sure if there is a trim, its 100% mack and I love it. Its my favorite. But my drivers prefer the 2001 with the 10sp eaton fuller and airbags, Its a lot smoother for sure.

I had a 1999 CH613 as well, but I sold it, I want to stay in the 2001-07 range, I want to maintain the ease of maintenance and repair in terms of knowledge. You know one you know them all in the fleet kind of mentality.  It makes it easier for me to train someone to maintain the vehicles with not much experience.

4 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

Throw out a pic of your custom build.

I haven't made any bodies yet, I plan to start in October. I've had my bodies made by a local shop, although I think they get a kit from someone else and just do the welding work. I've made some designs in Fusion 360 that I think would be overall improvements. They are semi round. Here is a photo of my first two I had made locally. Aside from design improvements I plan to add some inclinometers for added safety when dumping. Its not my priority though, I need to finalize my design first.

1 hour ago, Maxidyne said:

$55/hour for a tandem dump & driver? I'd find something more profitable!

unfortunately that's the rate down here  this is why I am going to limit to 5 trucks max. This isn't my only source of income, I also do fabrication, and engineering work, which I am going to start building dump boxes, it all ties in to our operations. We've made lots of friends and good contacts with other owner/operators of dump trucks. Most of them are in need of new boxes. Good way for us to network as well.

48 minutes ago, JoeH said:

PA triaxle rates are in the $75-$100 per hour range I do believe. I don't know how different operating costs are, but 55 for a triaxle? Not sure how anyone makes money on that.

I don't have any triaxles, but I believe the rate is about 65hr, the 50-55 rate is for tandem. Most of the work we do is very light, and usually hauling dirt for new pad constructions for homes or freeway construction. Its not as lucrative, but the work is plentiful. Diesel is 2.40gal and I do 100% of my own maintenance and repairs. It helps.