Flat Work

There used to be a lot of those old Mack pumpers around. And I've probably been on the business end of 1/2 of the ones here in Michigan!

Thank you.

Another stupid noob question- where is the oil cooler filter screen located? I also want to access the thermostat. Is it in the housing behind the short hose that connects the upper radiator pipe to the housing? Thanks.

'04 CX-613. AC-427 engine. Do these trucks use a thermostat in the oil cooling system?

2004 CX 613. Boy, have I got an issue. When I bought the truck, I knew the steering gearbox leaked. It's at the point it has to be fixed. So, I called Weller in Grand Rapids, and they've got one ready for me to swap out. But I can't get either the pitman arm, or the drag link off. I'm sure if I'm willing to 'eff up the drag link end with a BFH, I can get it out. But I can't find any information about a new end to press back in for the one I'm about to destroy. I live within easy driving distance to Weller's shop. And the guy told me he would change the pitman arm for me for free. But I can't get the box off to take in without getting one of these two things loose. I hate to even deal with the dealership. Does anyone know if the ends on the drag link are replaceable? They're just like a ball joint. Or, will I have to buy the whole damn drag link? Any help is greatly appreciated.

This is for the much newer 12 liter E-7 that I have in my '04. http://www.macktraq.com/installs/cd/disk1/datasheets/1001408.pdf

It appears to be the core.

2004 CX-613. I've got a leaky heater core in my bunk. Anyone here ever take this project on?

Here's a couple of pics of the beast. I was told on here if there aren't any pics, then it doesn't exist! And before anyone asks- yes, the smoke stack is now turned in the right direction. This was just after I got her home from Texas, to where I live in Michigan.

Yeah. Let's hope it stays working. What I think the problem was is that the assembly that rotates the vanes inside the turbo was sticking. The tech at the dealership said he played with it a little bit, and that the actuator piston seemed to be working. My theory (and I could be just as wrong as possible) is that the rotating assembly that works the vanes was carboned up. Although the truck has relatively low miles (343,xxx), it has almost 15,000 hours. The truck was used in the oil fields to run a blower to unload incoming pneumatic trailers full of fracking sand. It basically spent most of its time the last few years (according to the previous owner) going between idle and 1100-1200 rpm's to run the pto. It seemed the more I ran it at road speed, and spooling the turbo up, the more it wanted to start working. I've yet to put the truck to work. And probably won't do so for another couple of months. I still have a few things I need to do. Like fix a leaking heater core in the sleeper. And I'm going to post on that separately. I've also got to get a properly sized wet kit on it. I was able to sell the blower to a guy in the North Dakota oil fields. And I got really lucky that he didn't need the pto because he's running 9 Pete 379's with 18 speed trannys. Which all of that is brand new. I don't know why, but the previous owner had it ALL replaced: the unit itself at the trans, the pto shaft, and the tower in the cab. Everything. The unit will need to move enough fluid to operate the long cylinders on a sliding-axle trailer, and the motor on a 20,000 pound winch. I'm slowly getting her all ready to work. I have more questions on some things I need to fix yet. But I'm getting down to all small things now. At least I hope! I'll try to get some pics of it up soon.

Sorry, I've been swamped the last week or so. I've got it working. I took it for a drive the other day, and noticed as the truck hit about 1700-1800 rpm's, the boost would really come up, and the lightning bolt on the dash would go off. But it would come back on when the engine speed would lower back down. I actually just used a pry bar where the actuator rod connected to the vane control, and pry it up and down, until it moved freely. And sprayed it with some of grandpa's secret penetrating oil. Its working fine now. And its not throwing a code anymore.

'04 CX 613. Spicer axles. How do I identify the gear ratio of drive axles. I've only given them a quick look. They are spicers. Is there a tag or anything on them?

So I took my new (to me) '04 CX 613 Vision in for some work. AC 427 engine. It's throwing a code indicating a seized vgt. The turbo is working. And while accelerating, the lightning bolt on the dash will go out when you get the turbo spooling nice and fast, then comes back on when you let back off the throttle. And it stays on during steady cruising speed. Sometimes, the engine seems a little sluggish, until it hits around 1800 rpms, and you can feel it (kick in). Almost like its hit a different power band. The dealership's solution is to replace the turbo. The price of the turbo from them is $6000.00. Michigan Turbo can get me a new one, 2 year warranty, no core charge, for $2800.00. Or, a rebuild direct from Borg Warner for $2100.00 exchange. With a 1 year warranty. The mechanic at the dealer says the computer does not need to be flashed, or anything like that. So changing it myself is an option. Which is what I would do. None of the turbo shops will rebuild it for me. Neither will Borg Warner. So I guess my question is: has anyone had this problem, and found a way to get it working again? Can you spray the Hell out of it anywhere with penetrating oil, or something like that? I have not taken a deep look at the turbo to see just exactly how it works. I understand the concept of a variable A/R. I just haven't seen the exact mechanics of it. Like I said, the turbo is working. It spools right along with the throttle with almost no turbo lag. But I haven't put a load on the truck yet, and probably won't until spring. I am considering putting a boost gauge on it, and getting an idea of what kind of pressure it's making. Any home remedies here would be greatly appreciated.

Hmm. Learn something new everyday. First time I've ever seen a tandem drive without both. Which kind of surprises me, considering the truck was bought for, and used solely in the Texas and Oklahoma oil fields its entire life. Its probably one of the reasons it has such aggressive drive tires on it. I guess my next question is- does the system work like it's supposed to? I know like on old school 4wd pickups, if they didn't have a limited slip, the open differential almost always sends power to the wheel with the least resistance. Rather than to the wheel that could actually grab traction. But like in the explanation above, lightly applying the brakes should help control that. Thank you guys for explaining this to me.

I'm new to Macks. I have an '04 CX613 Vision. On my dash, I have a switch for the Inter-Axle lock. I do not see a switch identifying the differential locks. What am I not seeing? Or what am I not understanding? Every other tandem axle truck I've owned has had both.

Mine is in Grand Rapids too. I went over each and every item on the estimate. There were a few things that they "just replace" when they're doing a specific job. Make them tell you exactly what they're doing, and why each part is needed. I also had them walk me around the truck and show me everything they said needed replacing. I had a bad motor mount, and in their estimate, it included replacing the fan because it had minor wear where it had been rubbing. After I questioned it- it turned out it didn't need a new fan after all. Another example- the truck was making no heat. In their estimate, because the valves had been turned off to the bunk's heater core, they included replacing the core because "they just do it". Turns out the core is fine, and the thermostats were stuck open. I've got a couple others. But you get the idea. Know what they're doing and why. I also told them, as required by MI law, that I want to inspect each major part they replace, so I can see for myself.

I don't have a boost gauge to measure it accurately. But I've owned turbocharged engines all my life. Not to mention tractors on the farm. There's no doubt it spooling up in sync with the throttle. Like I said, even though I'm bob-tailing, I was impressed with how little turbo-lag there actually is. Of course, putting a load on top of it will tell the tale. That won't happen until spring.

I just bought my 1st Mack. '04 CX 613. AC 427. 343,000 miles. Oil field truck from Texas. I gave what I think is a good price. I figured whatever I bought used, was going to need some maintenance. So I also set aside money for it in my budget. I took it to the Mack/Volvo dealer last week and had them go over it from bow to stern. They found a few things, which I'll address each one specifically. But I'll start with the turbo. The truck was throwing a code for a seized VGT. I haven't put the truck to work yet. I bobtailed it 1200 miles to where I live in Michigan. And I was actually very impressed with just how little turbo lag the engine had. So I was surprised to hear that there's an issue with it. I also got some of the maintenance records with it. And the turbo had been replaced in '07 while under warranty. It had an exhaust leak, too. I'm having the exhaust leak fixed with other things. But I plan on doing the turbo myself. The truck will likely not be put to work until towards spring. But if I find this vgt to be stuck in "sweet spot" and working fine, will I hurt anything by not replacing it? The best prices I can find for a replacement turbo is $2800.00 for a new one. And $2100.00 for a factory Borg Warner rebuilt I'm also having the wiring harness replaced. The coolant sensor is leaking, and the harness is absorbing the coolant, and working its way to the computer. One engine mount is bad, and being replaced. Plus, I'm having them do a valve adjustment. Clutch, clutch brake, and brake adjustments. As well all new fluids, oils, filters and thermostats. And they're waiting to hear back from Mack if this engine can have the software upgraded to the AC 460 version. The power steering gearbox has a leak on the frame side seal. I need to find some info on that. The dealer's solution is to just replace the $2000.00 gearbox. Myself, I would just like to replace a seal. Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated.

Hello to all. Just bought my first Mack. '04 CX 613 flat top sleeper. AC 427. 343,000 miles. I live in MI, and I wanted a truck that had never seen salt. I found an oil field truck that had spent its life in Texas and Oklahoma. I gave what I thought was a fair price, while leaving room in my budget for the undoubtedly needed maintenance and repairs a used truck would need. I'll be posting on those soon. I hope to find a wealth of knowledge here. And I'll sure contribute whatever I can. But I'm going to be asking a lot of questions to begin with.