Ezrider

the hose that leaked was post filter. so the filter shouldn't have gone dry. and the right side drive is working properly the left is still giving me fits. i am amusing everything at the filter and below is fine do to the right side drive still operating properly. i have thought of changing the filter because maybe if its partially plugged up might be making it harder for a possibly weak pump to work. most systems iv worked with always had the filter on the return side rather than the suction side as pumps like to push better than pull. so i am thinking a restriction at the filter might be adding to my problem. however at the same time i hate to possibly introduce more air into the system.

2 hours ago, 41chevy said:

This may help, got it from my grandson at Va Equipment

 

http://husqvarna.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/465/~/maintanance---how-to-purge-hydraulic-drive-system

sounds pretty close to what i have tried to do run it in nurtal and each direction with the tires off the ground and then try to drive it a few feet back and forth the problem i am having is after i get it blead out enough to move on its own it gets air locked again

2 hours ago, Lmackattack said:

sounds air locked. Pumps will go bad if ran dry but you likely would have had to starve it for a long time.  as soon as it runs dry you cant move it so unless you let it idle for a long time after that I think it would be ok?   only way to remove air is to bleed it out like on a car but most times the system will self prime as you work the control valves. Can you look inside the hyd tank when its running? if you can look for air bubbles and that is a good sign that it needs to be primed again. if the tank is full try and move all the functions back and forth with a line cracked open a little to see if air or fluid is escaping.

can't look inside the tank, like normal for a skid steer 10 lbs of crap cramed in a 5 lb bag although this one really isnt as bad as a lot. still no way to see in the hydro tank other than see whats on the dip stick. but the hydro line suctions from the tank the line goes uphill to a filter then t's post filter and to each hydrostatic pump. back down hill witch is kinda a weird setup to me but its how its always been and how the factory diagram shows it being plumbed. i have thought of trying to change the filter as well but at this point i hate to chance introducing more air into the system. from the hydrostatic pump it then returns into the gear case where it fills the gear case about half full and then returns to the tank threw a large hose by gravity. there is a cover on the very top of the gear case that i might be able to remove and look for bubbles. i do know i have air in the pump. there is some plugs on the front of the case where a optional preasure relife valve can hook up i have been able to get air to purge out cracking the top plug and then will get movement of the drive again for a short period of time. however it will still be weak.

it seems like it really should not have this much trouble pushing the air out. especially considering the return is quite a bit higher than the suction line. of course i suppose the pump tolerances are probably not as tight as they should be as this skid steer was biult in the 70's

hydraulic tank is full and bucket controls work flawlessly however they do run on there own pump

might be a challenge to try to pull a vacuum on the return side its probably a 1.5-2 inch hose that comes off the gear box. hose is kinda old and stiff would be hard to get it off without damaging it. and then would have to figure out a way to get from a 2 inch hose to a vacuum pump. wet dry vac mabye....lol if i can get the hose off without damaging it might be easyer to try to plug the tank side of the return line and pressurize the tank. 

im thinking the pump is probably damaged from running dry. or sucking air from where the control arm comes out of the case. seems like hydrostatic pumps should move quite a bit of fluid seems like once it started moving it should push all the air out rather quickly unless i am missing something. 

iv got a old small skid steer. its a gehl 2500 long story short i was using it the other day broke the coupling that conects the two hydrostatic drives together and damaged the oil feed line to the left side pump. didn't look like the hose was leaking fixed the coupling and went to finnish what i was doing 20 mins later left side drive quits working. then as i was trying to limp it back twards the shop the right hand drive quits. both sides just freewheel. so i figured the hose that i thought was not leaking must be sucking air and the hydrostatic drives filled with air. replace the hose screwed around with it a while, with all 4 tires off the ground . spin the tires by hand till it biult up pressure and couldn't spin them anymore. and the right side came back to life after a couple trys. after it came back to life it was slow at first after running it for a few mins it was normal. the left side however i can get it to run slow for a couple mins and then it goes back to freewheeling. 

i pressurized the hydrolic tank with air to just a couple psi to check for any leaks i found a slight leak where the linkage comes threw the case on the left drive but non of the hoses are leaking and i think its leaked there for a while. or at least its always been damp around there. 

basicly it seems like there is eaither air traped in the pump that doesn't want to work its way out or its introducing new air somewhere. it seems like once you get it moving though it should move the fluid threw and purge any air rater quickly like the other side did. but maybe there is a trick to getting the air purged out?

im at a bit of a loss i know hydrostatic drives are basicly just a hydro pump that pumps into another pump with a varaiable vane that controls the ratio to make drive power and that is about as far as my knowlage of them goes. never had one apart. guess im looking for idea's from what i can find parts are hard to come by for these drives couldn't find much found some reports of people getting them rebiult at a few different places for $3k witch im not spending that kind of money on this thing. 

its too small for a lot of things i need to do but its a hell of a lot better than nothing. esp once the snow starts flying witch isnt far away now. i guess if the drive is shot im not going to spend 3k to have it rebiult id rather put that money twards buying a different skid steer. esp considering the engine burns about a quart of oil per hour. if its a take it apart and replace a seal that can be found at a normal hydrolic shop that is doable. 

i think i am going to run my pre egr Mack untill its no longer feasible to run a truck that old. basically until the frame rails rot out and then if the truck is still in good shape at that point i might even replace the frame rails. really have no interest in running a emissions truck. especially now that they changed the wording of the e log mandate to include 99 and older engines rather than just the model year of the truck. my truck being a 2000 with a 99 build date and a 99 engine.

but anyway back to the original discussion. my 7.3 truck would pull anything made to be pulled behind a pickup. it was a 5 speed with 4.10's as long as you kept your speeds 65 or below it got great mpg. running 75 would lose 4mpg over running 65. my 8.1 had more pulling power than my 7.3 but if you wanted to get even half the mpg you had to run it on the foot pedal and let it slow down a little pulling hills. cruse control would drop a gear on a pull and run up almost any grade at your set speed but you could just about watch the fuel gauge drop when it did. when i bought it diesel was about double the cost of regular unleaded. so half the mpg was fine by me. easy winter starting and fast heat were nice too. once the gap in fuel prices came down though i found myself wanting to go back to a oil burner. my newer ford has more pulling power than my 7.3 did but also doesn't get the millage the 7.3 did. my current ford has 3.73's and automatic. 

iv got another truck 98 chevy with a 5.7 its a heavy truck with a service body on it. come in at almost 10k lbs at its every day weight, it has its tongue hanging out most of the time and gets about 10mpg on the hwy. never checked the towing mpg but i don't tow with it often and the heavyset ill tow with it as about 5k lbs and with that load overdrive is pretty much non existent. 

one time i bought a chevy fullsize reg cab short bed half ton 5 speed truck with a 4.3L v6. thinking it would be a great run around economy truck.  that thing was awful. would hardly do the speed limit of 75 on the interstate without being on the floor in any kind of a headwind and the mpg was worse than a v8. 

I would be curious to know exactly how the trucks they compared were speced to come up with gas getting better mpg. 

my experiance is by the time you get a big enough gas engine to tow without straining the gas millage is single didgets under load. and 10 ish unladen.

I've had a 8.1 chevy before as well loved that engine. i had a pretty big camper that i pulled with it you could set the cruise controll in the mountains but when working it hard i had gotten as bad as 4mpg. 10-12 hwy mpg unladen loved that truck though, my only complaint about it was the gas tank was way to small for the amount of fuel it could use. there was times towing you were only 150 miles between fill ups. 

If you never go very far and live in a place with as cold of winters as we get i would defiantly recommend a 8.1L truck.

The truck i had before that had a 7.3 that thing almost never dropped below 10mpg no matter how hard and heavy you ran it. could do 14-16 towing 18k lbs if you drove it easy and kept your speeds down.

I now have a bit newer powerstroke its not as good on fuel as the 7.3 but better that the 8.1 by a lot.

I would guess the testing they did with a small displacement gas engine essentially a half ton in a heavy duty body. that will struggle doing any work. 

yeah its a big one. 

its a coal mine, they have two big draglines they use for stripping overburden. 

Draglines

There are TWO Marion 8750 electric powered walking Draglines, the AChief Ironsides@ and the APrairie Rose@ remove overburden from the top of the coal seams. The draglines specifications are:

Base – The base is 80 feet in diameter and covers the area of a baseball infield.

Boom – The Dragline boom height is 215 feet from the tip of the boom to the ground and the boom is 360 feet long. The Dragline dump height-130 feet, reach depth is 180 feet.

Bucket – The bucket weighs 244,000 pounds empty and holds 125 cubic yards or 160 tons of material. The bucket is 20′ X 16′ X 10′

Cost – The cost of the Draglines in late 1970’s dollars was $38.5 million and $41.9 million.

Construction – The Draglines were built onsite over an 18 month period.

Energy – Each Dragline uses 10 megawatts ( 10,000 kilowatts ) of electricity at 25,000 volts equal to a city with a population of 1775 people.

Motors – The power to run a Dragline comes from a total of 13,000 horsepower of electric motors at 475 volts.

Production – Each Dragline completes a digging cycle every 65 seconds. The Dragline has a digital scale that records every scoop and the weight and sends this data back to the office for production tracking purposes.

Re-generate – The Draglines generate power as the bucket returns to the ground in each digging cycle.

Shoes – The Draglines walk on 16 X 80 foot shoes at 7 feet per step or 1/10th of a mile per hour.

Weight – Each Dragline weighs 13.5 million pounds.

one of falkirks drag lines was operating near hwy 200 the other day when i came threw there so i snapped this picture of it. 

that came out great. iv been wanting to paint my truck for a few years and keep putting it off. problem is i can do it myself. but it will take a pretty good chuck of time. im kinda anal.....lol

your truck looks fantastic though. i would be very satisfied. 

smoke from Montana in North Dakota today.

they were talking about something regarding the first post on a morning radio show i was listing to i had no idea that was a thing that happened. lol too funny. i would have left it in the toilet and come out of the bathroom and said hey your toilets fucked you might not wanna go in there....lol

the engine break video is hilarious......... are you listing.. are you listing brrrrrrrrrrrrr 

i spent 2 days of the weekend out camping and fishing on the river on the boat. 

drove the car some more this week, now have about 550 miles on the biuld. is kinda starting to develop a new problem. every once in a while when you punch it will pull good threw first gear hit second then just kinda break up and lay over. still pulling strong but probably 80% power i think its ignition related. at first cause i was a little low on fuel i though mabye it was sloshing fuel away from the pickup. but i was watching the a/f gauge when it did it one time and was at 11.9 a/f ratio. i went ahead and dropped jets a little smaller in secondary the tune up would cruse at about 13.9-14 punch it and it would drop to 12.5 and then come threw the top of the gear about 11.9. with the jet change in the secondary its now all the same but it runs threw the top of the gear about 12.2 now. made no difference on the occasionally laying over problem though. plugs read good very slightly sooty not fouled. no oil or buildup. threads are clean and engine has not burned a drop of oil. 

spark quality has been suspect with this distributor from the get go one of my first drives it was breaking up pretty bad and among other things i closed up the spark plug gaps and that helped, cant really close them up more than they are at now though...lol i think the quality although probably good enough for a stock application on these super cheap ebay hei's is just not there. i think a ignition system upgrade is probably going to need to be sooner rather than later. 

i did check fuel millage for the first time though lol 13.9 really not to unhappy with that considering i have not been babying this car, i bet its still capable of its original fuel millage of 16 city 23 highway. cause iv been beating on it pretty hard. 

heavy gunner i watched that one now too. good episode. big blocks defiantly are good for power, id hate the idea of buying a rv as a donor though just imagine the hassle of getting rid of whats left....lol my engine should be fine with 87 octane i would kinda hate to try it though and find out i am wrong.  

We have a big drag line in nd that often times can be seen from hwy 83 in Falkirk. A couple years ago I hauled a bunch of gravel into the Falkirk mine for biulding haul roads after we finnished the job they invited us to go for a tour of the mine witch included getting to go up in the drag line and watch it operate from the control room. Unfortunately they didn't let me take a try at the controls. The drag line I got to go inside had a 125 yard bucket 

http://swce.coop/educational-opportunity/facts-about-falkirk-mine/

all the factory gauges function, oil pressure and rpms are not currently accurate. oil psi is a easy fix, i broke the jag sensor removing it so i used a chevy sensor and the resistance values are different still indicates weather or not you have oil psi but its not accurate, tach is calibrated for a 6cyl rather than a v8 still need to figure that out. for now i just have to roughly calculate the real rpms from the reading. good enough for reference but its not right. 

here is a video of it driving on one of my first test drives it was running pig rich at the time and timing was set super conservative should really shoot basically the same video now for comparison. 

its got a posi 3.54 rear gear

that sounds like a lot of fun, iv never drag raced competitively i had a few fast cars and iv gone out to drag strips on test and tune days done some auto crossing and road course racing. none of it at a competitive level. when i was a teenager i had a 4 door dodge dart that i stuffed a 440 in never did take it to the drag strip but that was a fun car, and would throw people off being a 4 door. my mustang was one of the funner cars to drive that iv had mostly cause the thing was tire smoke for days on the street. but that was probably 10 years ago now, my go fast for most of that time has been a honda goldwing engine in a custom hard tail frame that i built. never ran it on a drag strip either but its pretty damn quick i wouldn't doubt that it would run a 11 flat if not faster. 

on paper at a conservative 360hp flywheel horeposer right now the jag should run about a 13.40 @ 112 witch honestly is pretty close to seat of the pants feel. it may be making more power than the 360 estimate. on 5lbs of boost 360 should make 485 or so should be more than enough to push it into the mid 12's real world. i wouldn't want to push a stock rotating assembly over 500 hp though. ring end gaps are filed for boost but cast pistions and stock rods i don't plan on spinning it much past 6000 rpms or over 500hp without building a whole new bottom end for it. 

12's are my goal for the car cause its a street car and 12's certainly not fast for a all out drag car but it is where i consider a street car to be pretty darn fast. later down the road i may build a forged 383 swap the blower setup onto it and make some real power. budget didn't really allow me to build the engine to that level and get it in the car and everything else that goes with that on what i had set aside for the project. but once all the little minor details of the swap are worked out i can build any small block Chevy i want and plug and play it in and out of the car. its one of them projects that isn't really planed as a build it once and done it will evolve over time. 

i certainly wouldn't mind hitting you up and playing in your shop if i am ever in the area.

drove the jag today just normal running around town stuff. very happy with the drive ability last weekend i pulled the hei and welded up the advance slot a bit and re timed it for a bit more initial timing (the Chinese hei had 17 degrees of mechanical advance out of the box) i ended up at 11 degrees now, timing set at 28 all in and 17 initial have far better idle quality now and the car even runs cooler and starts like as if it was fuel injected. very happy with that change. defiantly look forward to ditching the hei though and going to a better ignition system but really couldn't beat 85 bucks for a complete functional ignition system to get the car up and running. 

hauled a couple loads so far so good. about 1300 miles so far

my truck is 2000 vision with a e7 460 has nearing 1.2m on it, dropped a liner at 940k was inframed with new heads ran pretty much trouble free till recently just normal old truck stuff some gaskets and seals here and there breaks and hoses ect. then it ate a camshaft and i had a string of shoddy work done by Mack on it. hopefully all is good now. the e7 is a good engine though, my hauls heavy gets good mpg for what it does and been a good runner with decent power. 

there probably won't be a whole lot of note worthy stuff for a little while. just a lot of little things, there quite a few things that are just kinda thrown together to make it work,  things that need re-routed cleaned up calibrated ect so thats going to be most of the progress for a little while anyway, the little things that take it from works good to is good if you know what i mean. 

i do have another cheap fun project i could post too, built and raced a car in 24 hours of lemons you can actually see parts of the car in some of the engine pictures on this thread if people want to see that project as well, i might start a thread for that one too. 

yeah but don't you look in your mirrors while your driving, let alone that would have to "feel" funny driving down the road like that. i have a side dump and sometimes when you set the tub down on uneven ground it does not set all the way down, i know its not down all the way right away. 

how do you not know your box is in the air??

im sure one of his engines costs way more than i have into my entire car....lol.  it wasn't that long ago if you could make 6-700 hp at the flywheel and have it be street-able and pump gas friendly was really something. now we have production cars that make that out of the box with full powertrain warranty. and people with engines making over 1000 hp that will idle in traffic without fouling the spark plugs out and puking coolant everywhere. 

i was taking to someone the other day about my car, and i said yeah its pretty quick. they asked how fast i thought it would go. i replied right now it feels like it would run a mid 13 as it sits at the moment. there reply was basically wow that's really slow. i just kinda had to laugh obviously they watch way to much tv and never actually have gone out and ran a car to realize there daily driver is like a 16 second car at best and what a 3 second difference feels like. yeah 13's are not blistering fast by any means but still faster than the vast majority of cars on the road. and considering this car factory spec's list a 8+ second 0-60 and 1/4 miles in the 16's and it now does 0-60 in 5.0 and it was not a painfully slow car to start with. was actually fairly quick on the top end in factory trim but pretty slow out of the hole. 

anyway enough ranting, i think a lot of people get used to reading this stuff and do not realize how insane a 1000+ hp  sub 8 second car really is. 

i figured that was probably at the wheels, if your getting a 700 to hold up to that i shouldn't have any trouble, after this one pukes and gets re-done. i wanted a overdrive trans but i didn't wan't to go to a 4l80e and have to get a trans controller. also the deeper low gear is a plus for the 700r4 with a car on the heavier side. 

heavygunner its amazing how far things have come to be able to biuld 2k hp like that and have it be so well mannered and drive-able at low throttle positions.