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steeler

Big Dog
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Posts posted by steeler


  1. 2 hours ago, mackcat12 said:

    fjh you are right I talked to the former service manager at my dealership and he said if i was a huge company they would have already replaced my truck no questions asked

    Oh ya, for sure. We do a lot of work for a nationwide garbage company. When we have issues, they make one call to Mack corporate and things happen. I feel bad for the small guys.


  2. Wow. Just catching up on this thread, what a mess!

    When they replaced the engine, I assume it was just a basic that required all of your external components to be swapped to the new (reman I'm sure) engine? So you've still got the same egr cooler/turbo and all that?

    Theres a guy around here that back in the 90s had several trucks, they had braking issues. At the time I worked at the dealership and this guy fought this problem for probably a year as we threw every valve, shoe, drums, whatever Mack told us to throw at it we did.

    Never did fix the problem and Mack refused to give the guy new trucks. These were cl's. He ended up suing Mack over it, I don't think he got squat.

    The 2 trucks he was having the problem with he parked in a barn while the lawsuit was ongoing, several years.

    He never bought another Mack. And this is when they were solid trucks, not Volvos with a dog on the hood.

    Good luck to you man!

    • Like 1

  3. 12 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

    The 8888.... number at bottom of screen is a bag with replacement swag bits. If you see VOE on the box that is a “Volvo Original Equipment” number. That means it was cheaper to buy from Volvo. If you want the numbers Grab it since I have to erase pics soon, too little storage left. If you give Mack the Volvo number of any of these their system will automatically supersede to a Mack #. 

    Thank you!


  4. 3 hours ago, Mackpro said:

    Only saw a few of the stainless cup tips break off. Saw lots of the copper cup tip break off when using the newer style puller. Lucky we held onto the old style tool that taps threads into the cup tip and then uses a pulller that threads into the cup . 

    And don't get lazy when tapping the copper sleeve and not go all the way thru. Ask me how I know. Had to pull the head for that mistake.


  5. On 8/17/2018 at 6:04 PM, Mackpro said:

    Actually there are 3 install tools. One for stainless cups, one for the early stepped bottom copper cups and one for the standard flat bottom copper cups. 

    Do you have the part number for the install tool for conicals? I never knew they had one other than the pull thru. Is the push thru easier to use?


  6. 52 minutes ago, fjh said:

    Bro In my opinion,

      you can chase this for ever! If the truck is pulling well and not throwing codes just ignore the idle situation  ! It could be any number of things !  It may even be the ECM  tring to compensate for a minor compression issue! Just be happy your driving a RELIABLE  somewhat old school truck and not a new one!

    Again Just my opinion !

    I agree. Run it.

    As far as testing the eup, sometimes you can lay a couple fingers in the injection line and feel the pulse, some may feel stronger/weaker. If you have one that feels noticeably weaker, that could be your problem, but if you're not sure then I would live with it myself.


  7. Ok fixed it. I am no longer a fan of working on an engine that has had the aftertreatment deleted.

    I had no check engine light, I was checking for codes in guided diagnostics add I always do. Well since this is us10 emissions, I took a quick look at the faults in the test section and was showing an active fault for coolant level. I fiddled with the sensor connection and now that's all good.

    I don't know anything about the software they program these things with when they delete them, but apparently it's whacky.

    Ok next problem (which ain't gonna be my problem) there isn't anywhere in ptt to program the injector trim codes as I always do. The truck runs fine, but has a little haze to the exhaust. Like I said, it's not my problem. If he wants the codes put in I guess he will have to take it to whoever deleted it.

    Anyway thanks for the help guys.


  8. On 5/15/2019 at 11:30 PM, terantrucking93 said:

     


    I have one more question my lines for my a/c they freezing up I blow my condensor it’s clean from the outside I know it has a filter but any body can get me a location


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Filter should be right next to the evap, behind the center panel. Is your ac compressor cycling? If not could be a bad thermostat. Also make sure it has the correct charge amount.


  9. Working on a 2011 Volvo road tractor, not sure of the model since they don't put it on the vin label. It has a D13, came in with hard starting problem. It had 3 cups leaking. I changed injectors and cups, now the thing ribs great for 45 seconds and shuts off. It will fire right back up, run exactly 45 seconds and shut off.

    The key is jacked up in this thing, you can take it out whole it's running, and I'm pretty sure you could start it with a screw driver. No new faults, only the same one that was in it before I worked on it, for def level from the instrument cluster.

    Of course this one has the aftertreatment deleted as well.

    Is there any security feature I'm not aware of that would shut it off because the key is flopping around in there?

    I'm just grasping here, not sure where to go.


  10. 8 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

    Volvo helped cured the issue by screwing up Mack’s parts system. Now they have to chassis search every part instead of operating on shelf-memory and the first two alpha’s. 

    Tell me about it! My mind used to be an encyclopedia of Mack part numbers. Our parts shelves lined up alphabetically, now I couldn't tell you the part number of squat.


  11. On 5/10/2019 at 10:18 AM, Hvtech said:

    Mack Trucks are now total Junk. Ever since Volvo Bought Mack They Have Been Junk. The computer systems on these trucks are the worst i have ever worked on . The scanner software is no better. We have Tech tool on our pc and most of the time it fails and we have to repair the software before we can even scan the broken vehicle..! It is very frustrating.. The poor bulldog is ashamed to be on the hood of these turds.

    I'll give that an AMEN! None of us know what would have been if Volvo had stayed out of it, but this sucks. There is almost nothing I like about Volvo.


  12. 12 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

    Make sure you get the correct pedestal gasket for the oil manifold base. I believe there are two variations that can be easily swapped after Mack did the left hand revision for the flipped centrimax and cluster plate cooler. 

    THIS! Make certain you have the exact gasket that came of it.

    • Like 1

  13. 2 hours ago, terantrucking93 said:

    I have the same issue can y’all tell me where it is locator the ahi module I have the same mp8 I can’t find it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    It's located below, and in between the ecu and the air compressor. 

    • Like 1

  14. 5 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

    My vote is no-go on the bottom-up installation. You'll never know if your in perfect alignment.

    H ring.pdf 295.46 kB · 4 downloads

    Agree. It would be very difficult if not impossible to get it in straight without the tool.

    Whenever I replace one, I always put some sleeve retainer on them. Don't know if it helps hold them better but can't hurt I figure.


  15. 11 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

    If it is the same as the N14 this is the specs.

    The crank gear has one timing mark that is aligned to cam gear which has two marks.....and cam gear has two different marks one is for crank gear to cam........and other is for cam to accessory drive.  It will only line up one way. Have crank gear at 12 o'clock position the cam gear will have two marks one will be at 6 o'clock position to align with crank and other will be around 2 o'clock position to align with accessory drive.
     Hope it helps.
     

    Yup, this has an idler gear that mates with the crank/cam/and accessory drive. But apparently it takes 900 thousand revolutions before the marks line up. I don't know if there is an easier way to go about it.


  16. I know it's not a Mack question but one got a M11 that somebody has installed the accessory drive out of time.

    How the heck do you time this thing? There is a rubber plug that allows you to see the idler and cam gear teeth, and I'm figuring that if I roll the engine around enough, eventually these will line up, but I've turned this thing till I have blisters on my hands and still haven't got alignment.

    I found the "v" mark for timing the accessory drive, and I can put it together lined up, but shouldn't the crank/cam/accessory drive marks all be lined up at the same time?

     


  17. On 1/30/2019 at 11:13 PM, turckster said:

    I believe before you go to all the trouble to raise the engine high enough to remove the egr cooler that you can remove the egr valve without breaking bolts or stripping threads in the manifold. If that happens (which happens a lot)then you might as well remove the turbo and so forth. 

    Yes, if I'm doing a valve and cooler, I'm going to go ahead and pull the turbo.

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