Macktech689

A cracked injector sleeve will put air in the cooling system also, if you havent tested the cooling system for combustion gas already you should test it just to be sure its the compressor airing up the cooling system.

If I saw those 2 faults logged the first thing I would check is the connectors, if the line connectors are hooked together and the harness connectors are hooked together thats wrong, the lines should be connected to the harness. You can check line resistance at the line connectors the ACM connector or the rectangular connector below the ACM connector,(FCUT in the schematic) can't remember the resistance in the heaters but if the lines are open there will be no continuity

There is a 12V driver in the module that supplies voltage to the heater circuits, the module grounds the heaters when needed. The line heaters are part of the line assemblies, if a line heater is faulty the line needs to be replaced. The connectors for the line heaters are in the DEF harness behind the tank, keep in mind the connectors are not "BOZO" proof and can be hooked up incorrectly causing "open" faults.

The DEF line heaters are controlled by the aftertreatment control module mounted on the left side of the DEF tank. There is an output for lines 1&3 and another output for line 2. Check the connectors for corrosion and the line resistance, sorry I'm not computer savvy enough to post the schematic.

We had a group of 2014 CXU613 chassis in the area with the same type of handling issue. The fix turned out to be replacing the original Bridgestone drive tires with Michellin's. Some sort of problem with the sidewalls flexing.

The most likely cause of your problem is the "combo" valve. It is mounted on the crossmember in front of the drive axles between the ABS modulators. If the hiss of air is coming out of the springbrake relay exhaust port (mounted on the same crossmember, opposite side on the right side) the "combo" valve needs to be replaced.

Works exactly the same as your Granite, all 11 13 & 16 liter engines preheat the same way.

Not sure what button you are looking at, the preheater is operated by the engine control module. The ECM determines when and for how long the preheater is activated.

Outlet Nox sensor, faulty device or component. I always replace both Nox sensors if either one fails. This fault will lead to a derate of the engine and possibly vehicle speed penalty of 5 MPH.

It sounds like you have a HDMS electronic fandrive, I have seen overheating during parked regens and its almost always a fandrive problem. the easiest way to test the fandrive is to disconnect the connector and run the engine over 1200 rpm it should lock-in and run at 100%, you will be able to hear it . If it doesnt lock-in the fan drive needs to be replaced.

You can ignore the heater wiring if you are not concerned about freezing in the purge valve.

Possibly just poor contact, the breaker should reset without removing it unless there is a short in the circuit. If the system fails again you will need to check the wiring.

2 fuses in the electrical center in the center of the dash below the triangle shaped cover power the HVAC controls, they are F25 and F70.

Just because the injector is clean doesn't mean it is operating correctly. The first thing you should do is get it flow checked to make sure it's sending enough fuel into the DPF for a good hot regen, it's also possible the catalyst is face plugged preventing the fuel from heating up the catalyst properly. The filter is located above the catalyst, its the largest section of the DPF below the outlet housing.

6-4 is the J1939 datalink, the high speed communication link between the control modules. Double check all the wiring around the engine and the triangle shaped connector on the firewall by the steering shaft, the 1939 wires are green and yellow.

You need to use the speed control buttons to retrieve blink codes from the control module, the codes will help to determine the problem.

No I dont, the cameras we install are part of a satellite system. You can search the net for simpler blindspot camera systems, I know there are several on Ebay.

There are dozens of blindspot camera systems for big trucks available. We install them at the dealership all the time and they work very well, installation is not complicated.

If it doesn't smoke it isn't getting any fuel to the cylinders. Try to bleed the injector lines to remove the air, these engines were sometimes hard to restart after having the heads off.

If the injectors were left in the cylinder heads and the heads were set down flat on a floor or table the injector tips are damaged. If the engine smokes but wont start its possible the valves were adjusted on the wrong stroke.

As long as everything is adjusted and torqued correctly you wont have any more problems. actually those engines were famous for breaking exhaust valve guide pins.

Valve yoke guide pin failure is caused by bending load on the pin usually caused by misadjustment. installing a pinless yoke will probably solve the problem, MACK has been using pinless yokes on intake valves for over 10 years

Fault codes reported to the dash by "04" emmisions MP-7 engines were cryptic at best. the only thing I get from what you posted is there are 2 engine faults and 1 instrument cluster fault. You will need to get the truck to a repair shop that has PTT software to read the faults.

Most likely a data link failure. If the malfunction light is on, check the fault code using the speed control buttons. probably a 6-4 J1939 fault, if the modules cant communicate with eachother the engine wont run.

The 4-5 will always cause low power because the turbo is not functioning correctly and the boost pressure is low.