Macktech689

It does sound like low fuel pressure, the engine needs fuel to make boost. With the cover off the supply pump, see if the gears in the pump will turn by hand, if they will the drive gear is slipping the shaft. There is a plug in the front of the block just above the timing gear cover that can be used to hook up a gauge to check the fuel pressure if you find the pump is OK. There is also a plug below it behind the cover, sometimes that plug will come loose and cause low fuel pressure and leak fuel into the engine oil.

Sounds like the synchronizer is worn out if the clutching teeth disengage. It can be replaced without pulling the transmission out but requires special tools to do so. I would take it to a Mack dealer to get it repaired. Its also possible the bolt in the range fork has come loose, tightening the bolt probably wont fix the problem but its something that can be tried. If the bolt is found loose it should be replaced.

Changing the transmission wont help, you will need to change the rear gears to get more roadspeed.

The Mack service manual for the E-TECH engine is #5-106, you should get one.

The EBAY listing is a E-TECH flywheel housing, it seals oil around the back of the block. Older style housings had a "drain" in the housing at the cam area, all that drain did was to allow water and dirt to get in and corrode the plug, newer housings don't have the drain because of that problem. there are no covers on the flywheel housing if its leaking between the block and housing you'll have to pull it off to fix the leak. Hope this helps.

If you are referring to the rear crankshaft seal, the transmission, clutch and flywheel need to come out to replace it. If your leak is higher up behind the cam, there is a steel cup plug in the block cam bore. the flywheel housing needs to come off to replace the plug.

Just to check it you can bolt the ground cables on the breaker together and see if the batteries are charging, but don't leave it that way get a new breaker.

That black box is a breaker that protects the vehicle ground system. Replace it and I'm sure your problems will be solved.

I found some on EBAY, 30 bucks for a 16oz bottle.

You will need to replace the accessory shaft in the engine also. The shaft comes out the back of the engine to remove it. Remove the steering pump and the nut on the front end of the shaft, knock the shaft out of the gear and pull it out. It's been years, can't remember if the oil pump needs to be removed or not.

6-4 is a J1939 datalink fault, there is no communication between the engine control module and the vehicle control module in the cab. Check that all the fuses are installed and look at all connectors from the cab to the chassis.

The cover wont come off because of the wiring going to the windings inside the solenoid. You can replace the solenoid seperately by removing the three screws you mentioned, it slides right off.

I tried to log on using Bing and my antivirus blocked an intrusion from Singapore. Something is going on with BMT's link.

It's rare that a reman transmission has the correct clutch housing on it, I always have to swap the housing from the old trans. to the reman.

The one piece tank is the replacement for the split tanks. If an engine is pushing coolant out the overflow on the split tank setup and all of the pushing coolant revisions have been made to the engine, Mack recommends to install the one piece tank. The sight glass is the cold minimum level, cold max level is at the bottom of the tube inside the fill neck.

There were big changes made in 2004 to meet EPA emissions. An EGR system, variable geometry turbo and sensors/actuators to make the systems work. There were also changes made to the cooling system and the valve train. 2004 engines were problematic the first couple of years, but if the truck has been properly repaired and maintained over the years it should be OK now.

I am sure there are some, but I dont know of any in particular. I dont order parts i install them. Surely some one else will know where you can get the kit. You will need to know the Manufacturer and Model of your steering gear.

When you get the repair kit for seal it will contain detailed instructions on how to replace it.

Crankcase pressure cant be monitored by the driver, Tech Tool software can read it, all dealers have this software

High crankcase pressure will turn the shutdown light on also, possibly the CCV canister isn't working properly at low temperatures. You may need to start driving when the oil temperature is a little higher.

Have seen this quite a few times, most likely the pressure sensors are faulty. Gauge will show 100, no warning light.

I have seen steam from water collected in the system coming out from under the front mounting strap before, usually disappears after a couple of minutes. First started noticing this in 2013 trucks. There should not be any soot coming from there though, indicates a problem with the filter or excess smoke being exhausted from the engine.

Well, with no wiring diagrams or knowledge of the electrical system the best bet would be to take it to a shop with experience in the older versions of VMAC. Good luck!

J1587 ( aka J1708 ) is the low speed communication link between control modules. If the wiring is damaged and the communication is too slow or missing 6-3 will become active. Check the wires between the modules located behind the kick panel on front of the passenger seat.