Macktech689

SPN 105 is the intake manifold temperature sensor, you didn't mention what year your truck is. The earlier engines used 2 sensors one for pressure the other for temperature, the sensor is capable of doing both so newer engines only had 1 sensor. Regardless the temperature sensor is located in the back of the intake manifold. If you have a older engine with 2 sensors switch them and see if the fault goes away. 

If you are unable to adjust the engine speed using the speed control switches it's possible that the function is not enabled in the VECU. PTT will need to be used to make parameter changes in the control module.

I would start with checking the sensor 5V. supply, ground and signal voltage. Do it first at the sensor and if everything is OK check at the ECM connector, may be a wiring problem.

I can't help with the VIN, the pinning campaign was PI0785 and was issued in May 2102. You can check your trucks build date it's on the decal inside the drivers door jamb, you could also contact Mack to see if your truck was part of this campaign and whether it was already done. Another thing to look at is to see if a plug is installed in the top of the flywheel housing next to the crank sensor, the plug is put in after the pinning is done.

Double idler gear failures are not uncommon. Starting in 2010 the oil temperature was raised to 238 degrees and the hotter oil was causing the retainers to loosen, originally the retainers were installed with Loctite and not staked in place. After a rash of failures staking the retainers was put into production can't remember exactly when. There was a campaign to "pin" the retainers for a while, haven't done it in years, You could ask your dealer about it and see if they would be willing to do it for you. It's possible the gear in your engine has a staked retainer already.

Could be a loss of module communication on J1939.

It's behind the washer fluid reservoir, easy to replace once the reservoir is removed.

I got chased down a hill by a grizzly bear at that park in the late 70's.

Installing an aftermarket sensor should be done but is not part of Mack's "fix", that's something you'll have to do. Reprogramming of the instrument cluster is done as part of the "fix"

Mack knows the exhaust temp sensors are unreliable and has come up with a delete kit to remove it.

If you have had the crank and cam sensors disconnected it sounds like they are hooked up backwards. The engine will stop cranking immediately because the ECM see's engine overspeed.

You do not need to remove anything from the turbo to loosen the inside bolts, get a long wrench or "hook" 2 wrenches together. Keep in mind the inside of the mounting flange is slotted so the bolts just need to be loosened not removed.

You will need to find the old tools that tapped the small diameter of the sleeve and the puller to get it out, not a big deal the get that small piece out. The installation procedure is the same for both 11 and 13 liter engines.

I wouldn't be too concerned about this fault. The fix could be as simple as a software update or a problem with the temperature sensor. The fault will not cause any performance issues, get it to the dealer when you can.

Rectifiers convert AC to DC, Inverters convert DC to AC.

Any location where fuel can leak will allow air to enter the system and cause hard start or no start problems, repairing all the leaks should solve your problem.

Outstanding, good luck with the truck.

The picture did not appear when I posted yesterday, not seeing any pump drive percentage. Make sure you're using the SCR start up test correctly before tearing into it. No drive percentage means the pump is not running so no pressure is expected.

Make sure the DEF tank is not empty and that all the lines are connected and not damaged. The pump pressure should be 126 to 135 psi and remain steady for several minutes. If there is no dosing during the tests I would suspect line is pinched or the pump isn't priming.

No offence taken, I can see what you mean maybe that's why I do so many valve adjustments.

The reason the engine changes it's "tune" during parked regeneration is the ECM changes the injection timing and rate to provide unburned fuel in the exhaust stream to help the regeneration process the EGR valve does not open during regeneration. What did you find awful about adjusting the exhaust valves, Volvo has used those shims for years and has just recently gone to screws on the MP-8 and D-13 engines.

I doubt anybody uses that alignment tool anymore, I've seen reman engines come back weeks later with the lightning bolt on and found the cam a tooth off.

Since Midliners were manufactured by Renault you might have more luck trying to find a diagram or info searching Renault electrical systems.

Thats definitely a Chelsea PTO. I'd buy a new one and install the air shift and get rid of the cable .