RowdyRebel

Determine the electrical load of the circuit before you up the protection via a larger fuse rating.

I don't like electrical problems either but they have put food on the table for a good many years.

Rob

so far the 20 amp fuse is working...not like I have the switch turned on all the time...just when I'm at the mines or at a construction site which requires it...

anyway, thanks for all the help. I never even thought to look for a second fuse box under the hood...looked at the one in the dash and didn't see a fuse burned out, so assumed it was the switch...

...how many more fuse boxes does this thing have? Just the 2? or is there another one hiding somewhere that I should be aware of in case there are more electrical fuses blown in the future?

A blown fuse is an indication, or result of a high current draw in the circuit it is protecting. There must be a problem in the circuitry that caused this result that needs addressed.

Buy more than a single replacement until your troubleshooting reveals the reason for the blown fuse in the first place.

Rob

After I bought the truck, I ran a wire from the hot wire going to the back-up alarm up to a switch on the dash and back down to the alarm so that I could shut it off when I'm backing into the driveway at 2 AM or anytime I'm in a truckstop....I was planning on retracing those wires to make sure they weren't rubbing on anything they...maybe it was just close enough to the 20 amps that the extra wire length along with the lighted switch was enough to blow it...not sure what the draw is on the back-up light/back-up alarm/idiot light is supposed to be...

Truck's going to Mack over Labor Day weekend to get the overhead run and I'm going to have them quote me a price on getting that leak on the rear axle taken care of too...if I blow another fuse and can't find the reason by then, I'll have them trace the problem too....either that or I'll up the fuse to a 25 amp and see if that blows.

I hate electrical problems

Fuse 18 does the back up lights on ch/cl up to 1998 or non Etech engines. On 1999 and up Etech engined models its fuse 42 out under the hood.

Thanks...found the burnt out fuse....now just gotta buy a tiny little 20 amp replacement.

...OK, so the new reverse sensor is in and it STILL isn't working ...no backup light, no backup alarm, and no "R" idiot light on the dash. Is there a fuse in that circuit anywhere that I should be looking for? Or should I be looking for a loose connection or short?

Dont buy it unless its for local hauling or farm use. The 2004 CX and CH trucks had more warranty claims than any other trucks that Mack ever made. Later the CXN and CHN came out with the same engine but had most of the bugs worked out. We still have problems with EGR coolers(made in Mexico), VGT position sensors, EUP's and exhaust manifold gaskets. This is not to be confused with the 2004 CV's and vocational trucks which used a totally different version of the ETECH engine, thoses engines are great.

Yup...that's why the company I'm leased to quit buying Macks. They USED to be 100% Mack, but with all of the problems they had with the '03 and '04 trucks, they bought a few freightshakers and a few petercars....the freightshakers are being phased out and they are sticking with the petercars...not sure if that'll change in 2010 when CAT no longer will supply the C-13...but they'll be "pre-buying" enough 2009's to give them a little time to figure out where to go next.

I'm in my own truck now...found a good low-mileage '01...so what the company buys really doesn't concern me too much...but I still wouldn't mind seeing them go back to the Macks...at least then the guys in the shop would keep the peculiarities of the Mack a little fresher in their heads when I have a question.

Installed the new D-2 governor today. Off at about 120 after adjustment, on at about 105 thereabouts.

Thanks,

Rob

Good deal!

BTW, Mack Performance Tour is in town this weekend

I was thinking it was gonna be @ McBride in Carbondale, but this schedule shows it split between Cape and Carbondale....don't make no difference to me....same distance either way....just gotta make sure I go to the right one

...hope they gots my reverse sensor in stock

After this one is locked up for corruption.

Rob

...speaking of corrupt governors...

...an interesting read:

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/3...o_stranger.html

Rob

I think its more of a chicago land thing as all my newer cars get letters about every 3 years I think they law just changed recently to only test cars 1992 and newer? my 91 toyota did not get a notice this year and I was expecting it. I know I have frineds that live out in the sticks and they dont get hastled with letters like I do.

Trent

You've gotta watch them emissions nazis up there...got a buddy in Joliet who was past due on getting his car tested (he was out on the road)...scale house in Indiana pulled him around back and when they checked his license, it came back suspended!

So, his company had to send another driver ASAP to come get the truck to finish his run...he had to find a ride home...and he had to deal with a "driving a CMV on suspended license" ticket.

RowdyRebel: You said that you bought the shifter that is shown on the left side of the first picture at the Cape Trailer store?

Left side shifter came with the PTO....it's a Muncie, so any Muncie supplier ought to be able to get it...just a simple on/off with a light. The right side PTO switch is the one I bought at Cape Tractor Trailer Supply to run the hydraulics for a dump.

Do they smog test in the communist republic of Illinois on large trucks?

Rob

not sure....don't think so. I know they don't do nuthin' with cars 'round these parts....if they did, I'd be in trouble

yes, it is located up on the top of the trans. Easily acessable from the floor of the cab( especially on the ch/cl).

thanks

BTW, RR, in that photo you posted, I see that your truck has an electronically controlled engine, as evidenced by the potentiometer type electronic accelerator pedal.

This puff limiter disabling stuff is not applicable to the electronically controlled engines, you'd have to mess with the ECM, or install some sort of aftermarket "chip".

Or take the intake manifold pressure sensor out of the manifold and connect it to a regulated 35 psi air line to "fool" the ecm into thinking the engine has turbo boost at all times.

Of course that would not be legal, so I wouldn't recommend it.

gotcha

And yer right....it's an '01, so its got the 'lectronics....but its only "illegal" if yer caught

it turns the puff limiter on or off. its just for smoke shows. normaly its plumbed into the parking brake to actavate its operation. I just put it on a dash switch.

Trent

...still not sure what a puff limiter does, other than having some magical ability to stop the DOT from writing you a ticket for something...and now that it can be rigged up to be turned on and off manually. I'm guessing if it has something to do with smoke...but not sure how that has anything to do with DOT fines...

A puff limiter saves you many $$$ D.O.T. fines

howzit do that?

I used to travel the state extensively in days gone by....

You are quite a bit south in the state. I always liked it there.

Rob

Yup....just about as far from Chicago as I can be without leaving the state.

I've got more than I need; I'm not a trucker either, just like trucks.

Where are you from in so IL?

Rob

35 miles north of Ft. Defiance

Wouldn't worry about that. The guy is a well known crook that is as bad as his predecessor. Ryan is proof that you can only piss so many people off till it catches up with you.

Blagos' time is comming.

I received the new air governor today but did not install it. Probably won't get a chance until the middle of next week but truck is not needed all that often.

Rob

DADGUMIT!!! how many trucks you got ta choose from? I just noticed you got quite a few listed...if I had that many trucks, I wouldn't have to jerry-rig up various "fixes" to get me down the road 'til I can make it by a place to get the "proper" parts....

...the latest is a reverse sensor on the trans...gotta run a hot wire to the backup alarm from a switch in the dash so I don't get kicked out of the mines or written a ticket by MSHA

After this one is locked up for corruption.

Rob

I was surprised he got RE-ELECTED!!!

Then again, too many idiots in Chicago vote straight ticket however the union or Jesse Jackson tells 'em to, and too many people downstate vote democrat because that's how their daddy and grandaddy and his daddy before him all voted....nobody seems to look at the candidate and what that candidate stands for or has done anymore...just voting for the letter after the candidate's name...(D) or ®...Last time Blagosab!tch was up for re-election, there was a friggin TRUCKING company down here with one of his signs out front....I guess they forgot all the tax breaks he did away with, the fees he increased, and the multiple veto's of the bills to get rid of that danged split speed limit (amongst all of the other corruption and wasteful spending)

but since I don't want to hijack your thread (too late, right? )....so you get your air problem sorted out yet?

I have 3 air switches on my dash. PTO,tailgate, puff limiter all are of the simple lever style. I took them out of a wrecked pete at a junk yard

puff limiter? Whatsitdo?

Looking for a dash mountable PTO shifter. Any one have one?

You looking for one that just does on/off? Or do you need dump (or any other) controls along with the switch? Seems any on/off air switch should work for an air-operated PTO...and any electric switch (of proper amp rating) would work for an electric PTO.

The controller for the PTO I run my blower with came as part of the installation kit with the PTO, so I'm not too sure where I'd go to get another one. The controller for the second PTO that I run a hydraulic pump for a dump with I bought at Cape Tractor Trailer Supply in Cape Girardeau, MO....I think it was $150 if I remember right, but mounts under the dash....has the on/off switch as well as the raise/hold/lower for the dump. Any local tractor/trailer supply location SHOULD be able to get you something similar. I didn't like the tower that the previous truck owner had in this truck...took up too much space in the cab. When I started pulling it out, I noticed that all of the switches were just generic switches like you could find at Wal-Mart (the electric ones, anyway...the air switches LOOKED the same, except had air connections on the back instead of electrical ones).

What I've got now:

What came out:

I suppose those switches in the old tower COULD be installed on a bracket in any other location in the truck...or even just put in a hole drilled directly into the dash. It'd do the job, but it might not look too purty...I guess that would depend on how much fabrication work a person would be willing to do

Time to re-elect a new governor Rob

very true

Where'd Mack hide the sensor on the T2180B trans? I'm thinking that's why the backup light/alarm as well as the "R" idiot light quit working on me last week...but I can't see where any wires are coming out of the transmission other than for the speed sensor at the rear. Would it be on the top (out of sight)? If so, what's the best way to get to it? I'm thinking if it IS on the top, it would be easier to remove the rubber shift boot to go through the floor rather than work blind reaching up from underneath....

...need to get it fixed before the mines decide to check and then refuse to let me go in to load...or before MSHA tries writing me a ticket for not having an operational backup alarm in the mine Worst case scenario (if I can't find the dang thing), I suppose I can rig something up that'll work by running a hot wire to the alarm from a switch inside the truck to manually turn on the buzzer whenever I need to back up, but I'd prefer to fix it right.

Had an 80 gallon tank on the passenger side of the truck....22" diameter and if I remember right, 49" long. I took it off to get it converted to hydraulic to run end dumps...then after a week of running on only the left side 80 gallon fuel tank decided I had better get it split 60/20 for the extra 100-120 mile range it would provide on a single fill-up.

Well, long story short the guy the local Mack dealer recommended to do the job for me FINALLY got it finished after nearly 2 months...but screwed it up BIG TIME!!!

There was some sort of cap (plugging a hole where I guess you could put the fuel pick-up or maybe the fuel gauge sending unit) in the way of where he would have needed to put the baffle......so he decided (without calling me to check) to put the hydraulic in the front and the fuel in the rear! So, if I would have paid him for the tank and tried to use it, I either would have not been able to add fuel or hydraulic oil (the cab would be in the way) by spinning the tank 180 degrees from how it came off the truck (fuel in front), or I could put it back on the same way it came off (fuel in rear), but there would not be clearance between the air tanks and the split tank for the hydraulic hose to come out of the front (where the 1-1/4" bung is located)...not to mention the fuel crossover wouldn't reach without switching the OTHER side to the rear also....and then there would be clearance issues with the driveshaft to the blower from the left side PTO.....

He's supposedly going to fix it, but he didn't seem too happy about it...and mentioned that it would be "expensive" for him to go back in and correct HIS mistakes. He was going to charge me $400 for the initial job, and so I'm going to refuse to pay more than that original $400 to get the tank back finished. I highly doubt he's going to let me have it for that, though, so I'm probably going to have to start looking for a replacement tank.

All he had to do was call me to see what I wanted him to do...or even ask me during one of my several calls to check on the progress of the job over the last 2 months....I guess that was asking too much

2001 CH613, dome light burned out and I can't find a replacement bulb anywhere. T/A had one that LOOKED the same, but was just a hair long and would not stay in place...and then they had the gall to try telling me they would not refund my money on the return less than a minute after I paid for the thing They did give me my money back, but I'm still in the dark. Anyone know the correct bulb number and/or know where to go to get a replacement?

Gotta keep a close eye on my fluid levels in this thing...the front drive axle seemed to be leaking pretty bad, but when I looked closer, it was leaking where the drive shaft went into the rear end...seems there are some 5/8" 12-point bolts that weren't very tight...and since I've always preferred 6-point wrenches and sockets due to their decreased likelihood of rounding off rusty bolts, it took me 45 minutes digging through 6 different tool boxes before I FINALLY found a 12-point 5/8" wrench to put a cheater bar on to snug them up . That slowed the leaking...but it still drips a little. How difficult is that going to be to disconnect the driveshaft, unbolt that box/flange/whatever it is, and change that gasket? Probably going to be a project for my next day off...'till then, I'll just be keeping an eye on the fluid level.

...also seems to be using a little oil too...finding I'm needing to add a gallon every 3000-4000 miles. I don't SEE any leaks, so I'm assuming it is burning it. Would an overhead help this any? I bought the truck with 261K on it...has 272K now and 12k hours, and I don't have any idea what maintenance had been done before I bought it.