tech_j

Year/Model of truck... Cruise control off, press SET button. What is blink code(s)?

Yeah sorry, totally assumed you had a Mack axle. He is correct, Rockwells (nor Spicers) do not use the bottom bearing. It is possible you have a worn bushing... Have you shaken the wheel to see how much endplay you have? Anything 1/8" or less, I would be looking for another cause of the wear.

Just wondering... What is the condition of the mount bushings? Oil pressure is well within spec. for an E6 BTW.

Look on the flat sloped area on the front of the carrier. The ratio will be stamped there, and most likely have a layer of paint covering it. If the noise is terribly noticeable, I would start by pulling the plugs out of the diff. and power divider to inspect for metal. You never know about shade tree mechanics. There can be much work involved in setting preload on the bearings and little room is left for error. As for the slip, a little play is tolerated but around an inch seems a bit excessive... Replace it!

Hmmm not too sure about the web... Tell ya what, I'll see if we have a similar truck in the shop tomorrow and if so I'll snap some pics. Just to be sure, this has the square pancake style oil cooler on it correct?

Use a long bar and shake the wheel up and down. If you have a ridiculous amount of play, it is possible the kingpin/bearing could be at fault. If not, it may just need tires and an alignment. First I would recommend trying to tighten the cap. Simply remove the cotter key and tighten clockwise to the next slot. If not, you'll have to remove the cap and inspect the bearing. If it is not crushed, then the bearing is not at fault, and you'll need a set of pins/bushings.

Not sure how much experience you've had with E7/E-Tech engines and Jakes, but you will NEVER feel the same stopping power as an ASET with Powerleash or MP series with VCB. In any case, if you do decide to run the overhead yourself, be sure to adjust the brake loosely at .017". When I say loosely, only MINIMAL drag is required. Otherwise you could end up with a broken guide pin and possibly replacing a head.

This is more or less a consensus. I'm sure you were all aware of and participated in the PI campaigns for replacement of the injector copper sleeves, hold down yokes, tip washers, etc. Was simply wondering if any of you have recently experienced anymore failures of injector related components? It seemed like for about 6 months straight these things were coming in non-stop for copper sleeve failures, and now they just kinda trickle in every now and then. Kinda interested to see how your's are holding up... Thanks!

1 quart of ATF every couple thousand will keep the whole fuel sytem clean and in good running order!

I think you're talking about 1 of 2 style adjusters. My first guess would be the hex 9/16" with the collar around the head. If it is this style, you must depress the round collar in order to get a socket/wrench around the head. The 2nd style would be a 4 sided square head, and you need a 5/16" open-end wrench to turn it. Don't forget that if these are Rockwell self adjusters (however doubtful), you will need to release the pull-pawl to turn the adjuster!

What color smoke? Sounds like the plastic gear on the supply pump could be trying to spin free of the shaft... Also verify that all fuel line connections are tight. A fuel pressure reading would be much useful.

Easy... Drain coolant and drop oil filters. Unbolt oil cooler inlet from waterpump and unbolt filter stalk. Replace filter stalk gasket AND cooler-waterpump gasket. Beware that 3 filter stalk gaskets were implemented so be sure ya grab the right one!

Hey everyone! My name is Jeremy and I am a service tech in Hobbs, NM. I'm employed with Bruckner's and have been working on bulldogs for 8 years; though I have been a fan since my dad bought me my first toy R model. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for allowing me to be apart of your community and feel free to ask any technical questions, as I will do my best to help.