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SMFire History

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Posts posted by SMFire History

  1. Thank you for all the assistance and input. I am seriously considering a 10R20 radial that should hold up well for our use. I know Brunacini has the 10.00's on his 52, but anyone have experience or input on why we shouldn't go with these?

    Although we would prefer the older ribbed style, the radial construction is going to win out on these and the 10.00's are much easier to locate.

  2. Thanks for all the input guys. Looks like we'll have to decide on bias OEM look with the trouble that goes with them or a newer style radial with a much smaller ribbing on the edge.

    I've been put in touch with a large international tire dealer so I'll see if I get anything different from them.

    Anyone have experience with the Power Kings?

    Thanks.

    Dom

  3. We are currently in the market for a set of tires for our 1952 125LS and would appreciate some assistance. The rig currently has 6 very old 9.00 20 tires on the original (split?) rims. I have done hours of research trying to find suitable replacements and have a few options but nothing that's exactly what we're looking for. We would like the following:

    1. Size 9.00 20 but would consider 10.00 20 as more options are out there. I believe the increase in width should fit our rims?

    2. Radials (this rig sits for periods of time and the tires now have developed a few flat spots).

    3. Old school ribbing on the outer walls if possible. (This is the hardest part to find it seems).

    From what I can find the big name tire companies have all but abandoned the 9.00 20 market in the states. I can find suitable tires by big manufacturers in nearly every country outside of North America. Hankook makes a 9.00 R20 but it looks a lot like a trailer tire.

    Here's the ribbing I'm talking about as posted by Mike today...

    http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=45

    Any suggestions are appreciated.

    Also here's a link to our project if anyone is interested. For now it's just a placeholder but will eventually have real build info/updates. You can see the type of ribbing on the sidewalls on the black and white delivery photo on the linked page:

    www.bringbackthemack.com

    Thanks,

    Dom

  4. That style of switch is original. The pull action of the rod makes the contacts rotate in the housing.

    I have an ignition switch that is the same style out of an E model fire truck. Also, I think A, E, and L headlight switches were all that same style.

    Any problem with spraying break free or another synthetic based cleaners in there to loosen it up?

  5. Thanks all for the input. I'll try to get the switch loosened up to see if our fuel gauge will work with it pulled. We have the 707cu in motor so not the Hall-Scott and the pump is rated at 1250 GPM. The switch is hard to get to but I snapped a pic from beneath the dash. It looks like a weird lever type switch???

    Oops... Forgot to mention no electric fuel pump anywhere from the tank to the mechanical location on the side of the block. We're using a low pressure fuel pump in place of the mechanical until it is rebuilt as it had grenaded inside.

    post-16036-0-37629300-1388524075_thumb.j

  6. Not dual tanks, and I don't believe its a Hall Scott. 1250 gpm pump. My buddies in Oceanside said they have a secondary electric fuel pump near the tank that is activated by the fuel knob. Part of the redundant system. I do not see another pump on ours so maybe it was removed some time ago.

    They say its an electric pull switch. I'll check it out next time I'm there.

  7. I've been going through the wiring harness and identifying loose wires, switches, etc in an effort to figure everything out and clean things up. I ran across what's called the "Fuel Gauge Switch" in the wiring diagram. Anyone know what this is for? It looks like a pull knob attached to an electric switch rather than a pull cable. It does not pull out with reasonable force and I don't want to break it. The knob turns but it isn't threaded and doesn't have a set screw like the light switch knob.

    Looks like this...

    post-16036-0-91155600-1388207208_thumb.j

  8. I dug out some items from the compartments of our '52 125LS that I could use some help identifying. I appreciate any assistance.

    Thanks in advance!

    Dom

    Item 1 of picture 1- ???

    Item 2 of picture 1- ???

    Item 3 of picture 1- is a hood retainer (now installed).

    Item 4 of picture 1- looks like a valve handle.

    Item 5 of picture 1- ???

    Item 6 of picture 1- ???

    Item 7 of picture 1- ??? (sorry no number on the pic)

    Item 1 of picture 2- ???

    Item 2 of picture 2- flasher.

    Item 3 of picture 2- ???

    Item 4 of picture 2- ???

    Item 5 of picture 2- double sided windshield wiper motor.

    Item 6 of picture 2- ???

    Item 7 of picture 2- ???

    Item 8 of picture 2- are just allen wrenches.

    post-16036-0-72140200-1388193251_thumb.j

    post-16036-0-83534800-1388193271_thumb.j

  9. I have a window that I pulled out of my 1951 ls engine. I could trace the window and send you the cardboard or paper template, if that would help.

    I would love a template of what you have. Butcher paper or the like would be fine and I can put it on posterboard here if needed. Much easier to ship that way.

    I appreciate the suggestions. I'll keep you posted on our progress.

  10. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take a look at the vendor list to start. I don't recall seeing one there but I have not looked at it in a while.

    I didn't realize the museum would have the glass drawings but that makes sense. They've been very helpful in the past.

    Thanks,

    Dom

  11. We are in need of windshield glass for our 1952 125LS. We have one side (2 pieces) of the windshield trim and will try to source the other but I'm wondering if there are templates readily available for the glass? I can ask my buddies in Oceanside to pull one of their pieces if necessary but I'm hoping not to have to ask.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Dom

  12. Finally got a chance to troubleshoot this today. Was not getting 12v to the switch so I jumped a 12v lead to one side and it turned on the brake lights... continuity good. Next I ran a new wire from the brake light terminal at the fuse box to keep it simple. Worked like a charm and brake lights came on with the pedal. After closing the fuse box cover the lights did not work again. Found a loose connection with the 14A fuse. Brakes worked again. Replaced fuse, removed new wiring.... all works fine.

    Maoral of the story... even when the fuse looks good it may not be. I tested both sides of the fuse terminal and it seemed good but it intermittently lost connectivity. No hiccups since the new fuse. I'll be replacing the rest just to be sure.

    Thanks for your help!

    Dom

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