gearhead204

alot of them had holset one lung compressors. so the truflo  is almost a rare in that application for that vintage  

unless you are moving to Arizona I would rather have a 350, them damn 400's need an extension cord as soon as the temp drops below 42 degrees, just my two cents worth! 

how much do you use the engine brake? as I understood it cummins main reason for the big cam was to better take the abuse of the engine brake( too many people figured out that a loose set slave cylinder would greatly increase the jakes strength) this puts more pressure on the exhaust lobes of the cam, thus causing cam falure.   

thanks again!

the two terminals with the Philips screw heads you should have continuity thru,  if no continuity the heater element has failed.  

thank you! one more question I cant remember is the cylinder # like a ford or a chev. as viewed from the flywheel is the right bank 1234 or 1357 or such? 

when on 1-6 did you check to see if the rocker arms on #1 were loose and # 6 tight ? or in overlap (exhaust closing intake opening) also when rotating the engine over did you go in the direction of normal crank shaft rotation? (I've seen guys go either the wrong way or over shoot the timing mark and back the engine up (against normal rotation) the backlash in the timing gears will cause the pump timing to be too far off and cause either a no fire or a very smoky  low power  performing engine. if you had the engine on #6 instead of #1 the pump timing is 180 degrees out and the engine will only roll white smoke but will fire on either.   

start with checking and cleaning all ground wire connections

need torque specs and valve set procedure for an e9 please, replacing the head gaskets on mine  thanks in advance!

Billy if you look at the side pic. you will see the prop stand is up, pretty sure that's causing the twisted sister look  

DAMN RATS!....... pack rats ruin more stuff in my area than wild fire! ....feel for you, takes for ever to get that damn urine smell out not to mention they will  chew on every thing. be sure to check the battery cross over cables! would hate to see that thing burn up after you put a bunch of work and $ into it!    

truck shop, I take it you are out west here some place, cuz I don't see any spoke wheels and the Werhouser  log truck ,looks like all west coast stuff . 

I would suggest to unpin the linkage and "play" with the throttle and see if you feel a pulsing in the throttle rod at low rpm if so you may need to do some pump work to fix this issue.

with that bit of information I would defiantly change out the spiders!

Yes, you rears should wear quicker than the front, also the rear will lock and slide easer! as for the spiders all I can say is remove one and try it. are you sure the spiders are different or just the slack adjusters.

I would use a square and check the center of the s cam to the center of the air can  mounting flange and compare to the stock axle, then use the slack adjuster that allows "pinning" with no or minimal deflection of the push rod. slack adjusters should be available 1/2 inch increments.      

Dumb question ..... it the spring strong enough to stop throttle bounce at low rpm caused by a worn or loosely set buffer screw adjustment? in the injection pump. I'm thinking the compressor may be causing the governor in the fuel pump to flutter and thus make it appear as the air cylinder is working the throttle, when in fact its just the opposite.

Mack air ride ? would that be "neway"?   also are those the smaller diameter  fuel tanks?

A cordless saws all and a dark night will get you what you need  to bad you are on the wrong end of the country I could find you several parts hoods out west.

Here's a picture of a trailer totter of Bill Harwood from Quincy Wa.  its a 55 that he cut down from a tandem, was his spud hauling truck.   He wasn't there when I stopped by so I didn't get all the details.

What underdog said make sense, but also check to see if the cans are coming into contact with any other components, frame, or axle limiter stop. An excessively worn suspension can cause unique problems. if paired with rough terrain work.   

go to your local napa and have them print of a series parallel  switch wiring diagram for you. also if you have the old style voltage regulator you may have to repolarize it after having the batteries in wrong.  

Well .....if its a Clintionville  edition I cant argue with you as I'm sure all related documentation has been shredded or deleted!....... furthermore I don't want to die from a "sudden ailment "   AKA LEAD POSIONING !