HarryS

Sweet! Looks like you'll be driving soon.

I just went through that when I had the duplex direct switched to a 9 spd overgear. The speedo was off by about 20%. I changed the driven gear which is located down in the hole on the trans. If you remove the cable connection nipple you should be able to pull the driven gear out. As it turns out the drive gear has to be a match. Changing that gets a little more complicated you have to pull the driveshaft and housing from the rear of the trans, Once that was done it works fine. The cable end at the transmission on mine is square. I'm also having trouble with the tach cable which has the strange looking tang at the drive end and a square drive at the tach end. The tach end of the cable has about half inch broken off and doesn't make full contact so the readings vary from 0 to 800 regardless of engine speed. I sent the tach cable and housing to Bob's Speedometer in Michigan on Tuesday and he called this morning saying he has fixed the cable along with lubricating it and is returning it today for $15 + shipping. That's what I call service.

Sounds like either a fuel supply problem; fuel pump pressure, restriction or debris in fuel line, pin hole leaks in fuel line or connections, debris in carb or other restriction or it could be a vacuum leak which could be anywhere from the inake manifold to the wipers or maybe a vacuum brake booster if so equipped. Cool looking truck hope you can sort it out without too much aggrevation.

It was on the History channel this past Saturday night. I'm sure they will replay it. I still can't believe those prices and some of the buyers were dealers buying with the idea of reselling. I would not want to be at the end of that chain.

Here's a link to the article in Old Cars Weekly: http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/going-lambrecht-chevrolet-sale-living-hype?et_mid=639924&rid=241919733

Where are those people when I'm selling.

Very nice.It makes it all worthwhile when you can take them out on the road.

I finally got to checking the cable and at the engine end it was fine but the instrument end was not tight. When I removed the instrument end to take a look the crimpted on square end was very short and not fully engaged. I was able to get it in and tightened. I took the truck out today and the tach worked great, for about 5 miles and it slipped back to not registering much above 800 rpm. At least now I know that I need a new cable. Thanks again for the advice and vote.

Sounds like a specific order for a repair. I'm surprised they didn't take the air cleaner too.

Very nice truck. I hear you about the wife, mine doesn't either.

I believe that is the same as fender welting as used on antique cars. These folks should have it:

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/Products.html

Very Nice! I'll be looking for it at up coming shows.

What a great show and great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

Congratulations. It's a great feeling to get them back on the road. It is also a lot of fun to talk to people that either drove or worked on them.

Very nice truck. Looks like most of the dirty work is done. I agree on the jack stands, especially after reading the Superliner story.

My B-61 had new Stewart Warner guages when I got it, but the fuel and temp guauges had to be changed when I switched from positive to negative ground. I got the replacements from Summit Racing. I also had to change the sending units which came from Summit. I don't recall the price but it was reasonable. Watts has a mechanical temp guauge which they claim is more trouble free than the electrical. I don't have much time on the new gauge but no problems so far.

What a sad ending to the story and for Harry. That is a beautiful truck and a great tribute to him. Enjoy it as each of you intended in the beginning.

Thanks for the advice. It sure makes sense. I had hoped to get to it today but didn't. I'll keep you guys posted.

The tachometer in my '60 B Model (673) started out being off (under) by about 25%.. It now won't go above 800 RPM regardless of engine speed. I tried disconnecting the cable at the engine end and using an electric drill. That pushes the tach up past 3000, but I'm not sure how many rpm's the drill is turning. The square drive on the cable end doesn't seem rounded nor does the drive connection. I'm not sure what to check next. Thanks for any suggestions. Harry

Enjoyed the ride. Looks like the pickup at about 2 min just went into re-gen.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Congrats on the show and the drive there and back. I like the color combo too.

I just finished doing the entire cab including the inside doors with Dynamat Extreme. It is easy to work with but as mentioned more expensive. I got mine from Summit Racing for about $3 something a sq ft. It took 72 sq ft to cover everything but the inside firewall. The factory padding had already been installed along with all the wiring, cables, etc. It sure has a solid sound when thumping. Hope to do a road test in the next couple of days.

Very nice truck. Nice to meet a fellow 1960 B Model owner. I'm kind of in the same position as you just getting the truck on the road and working out the bugs.

Here she is you can even get to "see dees" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuXbWxgEN3s

Very unusual and super nice. Love to see the oldies get saved.