MACKTRUCKS4

I know how you guys like pictures. 338 tires, 418 tires when the outriggers are deployed. 2 trucks pulling and 3 pushing.

I replaced my turbo on my V-8 with a custom built one from Dale Francis, building 50 pounds of boost. Talk about power. Anyway, when I pulled the air tubes off, there is oil covering the inside of the tube on the hot side only, nothing on the cold side. I am concerned on oil inside the cooler restricting the cooling of air. I thought about pulling the cooler and flushing it with fuel oil to clean the inside. Should I or is it a waste of time. Any thoughts.

In my 94 RD, I would like to add pause wipers. Do you have to change the wiper motor or can you just change the control switch?

Can anyone tell from the pictures what year truck this was? One of the pictures of the transmission shows what I think is a date code of 1967. Also there is no air cooler for the turbo. I could use some of the parts. Any thoughtshttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mack-Transmission-/220756273931?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=itebm3366196b0http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mack-R-600-Engine-300-HP-Low-Reserve-/220756269642?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item3366195a4a http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mack-Rear-End-/220756291445?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item336619af75

Is the B75 for sale also?]

I had a request by one of my customers that I deliver pool water to in the summer. They were having a pool and spa expo and the water at the building they rented was brown. They wanted to fill a small pool and a hot tub. Well a 2 hour job turned into 5 hours. The temps were around 30, not too bad, but seems the oil in the pumps that I run in the summer didn't like the cold temps and I had to pull my B@$&'s off. Mean while I was blocking the front doors with the truck because the pool was right in front and the doors opened while I was there. When I unhooked the hoses, the water had to go somewhere and of coarse it went right in front of the doors. Time for me to exit. If I didn't deliver 200,000 gallons of water for him a year, I think I would have stayed in bed. And to top it off, I made a whooping $120.00.

When I pulled the tranny out of my RW, I did not have to remove the floor pan. My truck has a E9, I don't think the pan has to come out for the E6 either. The superliner cabs sit a lot higher on the frame.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...tem1c18412e26

If someone is looking for a nice superliner camper, this would be it!

You won't see any new Macks for Penndot. I heard they lost the contract for any more trucks. Does anyone out there know for sure if that's true?

Anyone looking for a nice b-model truck needs to check this out. http://www.town.swan...5-3C0B277B9495}

When I changed my transmission from a 9 sp. to a 12 sp., I had to move the round support bar that goes across the top of the transmission from cab mount to cab mount. The holes were already there. I don't know if that is the mount you are talking about, or is the cross member that holds the air ride cab mount in the way? My truck has an E-9.

If you don't mind my asking what's the Model# and Vin# on this truck. I was doing a little historical

research a while ago on here about the 1000 V8's and the trucks they were in. I correct myself from earlier,

the very last 1000's had the air to air set up right before they went to the E9 designation. If you

could take some pictures of it it would be really neat to see. As for the price factor a Friend of mine just bought

a 95 CL chassis with a V8 that didn't have a cab or hood for $9000 and it had 400000 miles on it.

I hope this helps.

Thanks, Josh

Do you know where the CL chassis came from? I was watching one on BigTruckSalvage that sold for $8,600 that needed a cab and hood. The truck was in Maine and had 1,100,000 miles on it.

Thanks, Mike

I'd also suggest cleaning the intercooler & rad. cores externally, either with compressed air or with a pressure washer. I've had heating problems that were caused by partially plugged fins on the cooler & rad.. It also seemed that when air flow through the cooler & rad. are reduced, the fan clutch did not sense a high enough temp to kick in even with high water temp, but once things were cleaned out and proper airflow was restored, the fan clutch worked properly again.

You should remove the intercooler and clean it and the rad. separately, as it is difficult to clean them properly with one in the way of the other.

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I had an older V-8 that I did that to and it worked. I already tried that by taking them apart to clean them with no luck.

I need a hood for a superliner I'm building. 1988 with square headlights. I was looking at Jones Performance. Did anyone every buy one of their hoods? I was wondering how they fit. If anyone one has an OEM they would like to sell, please contact me.

I have worked on engines since the jake started and i have seen and corected the fact that some guys have tighen the jake lash up and that is only a story they hear on the radio. Like been stated be carefull with the lash and dont experment withe the lash setting. Here is a look at why your tighter than factory lash setting will not help but be some less than usefull.When you set lash closer than it should be that makes the valve start to open faster due to the timing efect on lesser lash. Of if the valve opens faster now or another way of looking at it the piston will be at a lower postion in the hole than normal so that means the air being compressed to use as a compression brake is not compressed as much as if the piston was alowed to come on up at a normal postion.The pop off air pressure is not as much now is another way of looking at it.If you put more lash in the jake it would let the piston be at a higher postion in the hole and would be a better brake but dont you know jake brake has tested this and found the best lash for that brake. They have all to lose and nothen to gain by printing the incorrect lash info.I have hear this story since the early 60s and if dont help to try and change what has been tested.When you play with the jake lash you stand a change of having valve to piston contact if another problem was to happen.I also have found there is not any difference in the braking power in the two brake systems. If you have all of the parts for the dynatard and want to sell them contact me.

I have all the dynatard parts and want to sell them. I sent you a PM.

Air filter gauge is showing 10 on hard pulls, (I don't think that is high). Red line is 30 on the gauge. Stats are new. About three weeks ago, a clamp between the turbo and cooler broke, blowing the tube off. I did notice a small amount of oil in the tube. I wonder if there is enough oil in the cooler to block the tubes up? Causing lower boost. As for the fan test, do you put the cardboard between the rad. and the fan? and does that direct the hot air to the fan hub? do you rev the motor up?

Now my truck is starting to run hot. My V-8 Superliner is acting up. On long hard pulls, the temp. goes up to 220 with the oil temp reaching 230. When I level off, the water temp. comes down to 200, but the oil temp, takes a lot longer. I changed the clutch fan because I could not hear it lock up when it should. I still can't hear it lockup with the new one on. I do run dual open stacks so it is loud, maybe I just can't hear it. Does anyone know how to test the clutch fan? Maybe I have an oil cooler problem? The motor is fresh, pulls hard, pyremeter never goes past 1000. Turbo boost hits 27lbs. at max. The motor is turned up to around 650Hp. but never gave me problems of heating up. Lately it has bin using a little anti-freeze. No outside leaks, no signs of where it is going. Oil shows no sign of water in it. I think maybe I have a cracked head or a blown head gasket. I am going to do a exhaust gas check on the anti-freeze to find out for sure.

Awhile back I had my cam reground in my 1994 E-7 400, one of the lifters went bad. The motor had a Dynatard on it and I replaced it with a Jake. From what I gather that cam was ground for a Dynatard from the factor. Now the problem I have is seems the Jake does not work like it does on my 2000 V-MAC III, which was built from the factory. It seems to work as good as the Dynatard did, which was not that good. I set the valves as I should for a Jake, but when I turned over the motor to go to the next valve in order, I went back to the other valves that I already set, and it seemed they were really loose ( like they were going to make noise, but they didn't) I was wonding if the valves should be set differently? I went over the valves twice to make sure I did them right and I'm sure I did. Could the settings on the Jake be tightened up to make the Jake work better? Like say .060" I have the setting on the slave piston set at .080" as per Jacobs installation chart. Oil pressure is 30lbs @ idle and 60lbs. @2000RPM. The Jake I used was a new set-up, so I don't think it needs to be rebuilt. Model is a 680B

I will be there on Saturday for sure. I might get talked into taking my superliner down, don't know yet.

We tested the anti-freeze for exhaust gases today and the test came back negative twice. Turbo has about 20,000 miles on it. The water pump was replaced about 50,000 miles ago. We will pull it off to check it. Does anyone know how much clearance should be between the impeller and the housing? Than if all else fails, we will pull the radiator out and have it cleaned.

Pyrometer peaks out at 1000 on the hardest pulls. I forgot to mention, the clutch fan was replaced and now you can hear the fan kick in around 195, but that did not help. The heater does blow hot. We checked for any leaks outside the head gaskets, none were found. No water in the oil. Belts are tight.

A friend has a 79 R model 10 wheeler dump, with a 1984 300 2 valve with a tip-turbine. Lately it's bin running hot on hard pulls. Radiator looks good, changed thermostat, coolant looks good, and we put a gauge on the intake to see if there was a leak. Boost needle is steady up to 20 pounds but when it passes 20 going up to 25, the needle starts bouncing all over the gauge. Is this a sign that there is a leak? or should we look somewhere else? This truck never ran hot before. I first thought it was the gauge, but it is steady up to 20 pounds and after that , starts bouncing.

Thanks for all the tips.

GreenGiant2- I got the cam reground, resurfaced 11 lifters and bought 1 new. I put everything back together a few weeks ago, what a messy job. I think if I do it again, I will roll the truck on it's side so I can work on it from the sides instead of going under the dripping motor. LOL Total cost was around $600.00 for everything. Better than $2,100.00 just for a new cam and lifters!!!!!!!!!! Trucks runs good.

Looks like it's time to replace my turbo on my V-8 Superliner. I have the pump turned up and now I want to put a bigger turbo on it. Does anyone know what to put on it as far as size, make , and where to get it? I run the truck every day so I don't want to get too carried away, something that will live on the street. Maybe one step up from stock.

Did it come from the factory as a 460HP? If it came orignally as a 350/400HP and someone bumped the HP up and didn't change the camshaft keyway it will overheat in the summer time. I know I have done it. If it was orignally a 460HP did it just start doing this? I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

Mackpro68, what is this keyway you are talking about? I have a 2000 RD, 400 that I put superflow injectors in to give me 490Hp. It does run hot in the hot summer days. What is involved with putting it in? Is it a stepped key that you put in place of the stock key? Changing the cam to crank timing. What would you ask for at the dealer for part number?