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theakerstwo

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Posts posted by theakerstwo

  1. You are correct. I could make out the E L 1300 after peeling off the vinyl protective layer to the aluminum rivited tag. No one in the Peoria, IL area had an unloader kit so I'll have it on Tuesday.

    Got "Momma" chores for the weekend so my truck times are through......

    Thanks,

    Rob

    I think they are better compressor than the bendix untill they are on a 60S DD and they are short life.I have a E 7 with a Holset compressor on it.

  2. Yes i hear them crying yesterday on the radio. Ever one of them was calling there dog. One was counting one, two, three.ones dog may have been named Audio. one said no one could cover him up cause he was the man. One was talking about running with 2000 watts and other one was bare footed.You could turn the radio off and still hear them. One was beging for some one to vote for him. All from souther Al.Now that dont make them bad because were they from but to beg.Yes skip was terribly yesterday. I did not know if it was the loader or the Demcratic talking to me.

  3. In a B model that double disc would be a push type, as opposed to the more modern pull type double disc clutches.

    First off, does the pedal have 1 to 2" of free travel at the beginning before you feel resistance? If not, then adjust the linkage at the clutch release shaft on the side of the bellhousing. It will have a 3/4 hex jam nut and a square head adjusting bolt. Loosen the jam nut and back off the adj. bolt til you have the proper free travel in the pedal, then tighten the jam nut.

    If the pedal already has free travel and the clutch is slipping, then you can take out the shims between the pressure plate & flywheel to get some more life out of a worn clutch. Take out the floorboard, take off the inspection cover on top of the bellhousing, and remove the pressure plate attaching bolts one at a time and take the shim out (the shims are washers with a tab that has a hole in it where you can hook a piece of mechanics wire while removing, so you don't drop a shim into the clutch or bellhousing), then replace the bolt Do not fully tighten any of the bolts until you have rotated the flywheel 360 degrees and removed all the shims, then go around one more time and tighten all the pressure plate attaching bolts.

    After removing the shims you will have to re adjust the clutch as I described previously.

    If you find that the shims have already been removed and the clutch is properly adjusted and still slipping, or, you cannot get a good adjustment, then the clutch is history and needs to be replaced.

    .

    You must be as old as dirt. Not many guys remenber or have seen them.Something i have forgot is have you ever seen a pull clutch in a quadplex?I think they came up into the R models with them but can not remenber for sure.

  4. AI engines need to be speced almost perfect to get good perfromance. We have had bad combos like 8LL fuller trans, 4.17 gears and tall 24.5 tires. Finally had to change the rear gears to 4.64 to get it up and going. Tourque curve on an AI is screwy.

    A 4.17 rear is a problem on lot of macks with the big over drive trans and even on the older macks. They would be better off if the trans was a .83 o/d instead of a .71 like mine.You stay under 1500 rpm to long in hi gear.

  5. Once saw a truck drive across the state after having an M100 steering gear "rebuilt" someplace. He was complaining that the truck wouldn't steer one way. When they assmebled the gear they didn't time the parts correctly, at steer ahead the pitman arm was toggled backwards about 150 deg. If the splines are damaged don't try to scrape by, it's not worth the liability involved. Remanufactured steering gears are fairly affordable and should be readily available through Straight Line (http://www.straightlinesteering.com/) or Mascot Truck Parts (http://www.arvinmeritor.com/products/aftermarket/northamerica/mascot/default.aspx)

    A rebuilder in Dallis a few moths ago priced rebuilding a box of mine or exchangine one for a inside frame rail mack for 440.00. But two weeks ago i had to have one on my superliner and got one her over night from our spring shop and it was about 675.00 but its worth it to not worry about a half wore out part that can kill you and some ones little buddy child out there.That would kill me to have to live after killing a small child that was riding around with his mommy just having fun for the day.

  6. I second what all has said and if your not a good truck mechanic dont try messing with it.So many trucks have been put in the salvage yard over this kind of thing. when you stop and think about it the whole thing is a blessing that it happened the way it did. The good Lord has been helping you out some there.The shaft and arm is what i would say worn out because the bolt that holds it on dont come off for no reason with out the spline being worn.

  7. There was two styles of S/P switches and have not seen one like you have in years. This is used i think only by mack and it is the one which has the magnectic switch built in the switch and does not use a senold on the starter. Later years they went to the smaller switch which used a senoild on top of the starter.It only had two section in the s/p switch.You switch is call a s/p switch magnectic combination.

    • Like 1
  8. I see two problems. The front mount on a B73 was a trunion mount meaning it was a rap around the center trunion that some old cummins had around the crank on the front cover. I have seen these mounts up later on 855 engines but have never seen one on a big cam. The best thing is use the front mount from a big cam and build your cross member that it sets on. The other thing is the flywheel and clutch will be a pull type if using the old mack trans.The flywheel from a 220 will not be same as a 855 engine.

  9. This is i guess a rear chamber with the parking brake on it. If so sounds to be leaking thru the spring chamber in to the service side. To check it is simple and you would with the parking brakes released disconect the service hose to the chamber and there should be no air coming from the service port of the chamber. If it is replace the chamber.

  10. 98 CH 613. Left side ABS valve ( inside framerail...a few airlines and an electrical connection )leaks at the diaphragm on the bottom. I replaced it once and its leaking again but not all the time. When it leaks down to about 80psi I get a "malfunction" light on the dash. Is the new valve bad or is it an ECM issue/

    I think you are talking about when you hold down the foot valve. Us play like that is what your saying and that it ius a wabco. The most problems i have seen with them leaking when air is applied is trash in the valve and holding the seat open. Some times it is rust from the brake chamber. If it is rust you some times can do a accuator test were it purges the valve and that is did under full foot valve pressure. This will clear the rust some times.If it does pull the chamber apart and take a look.

  11. Highly recommended I might add!

    On the newer engines these have caused a lot of greif!

    These rarly come adjusted correctly from the factory They tend to take out the clutch brake which then wipes out the sensor on the fly wheel housing two or three times before you get all the peices .

    The sensor is Not a nice thing to change.

    Funny thing is they blame the clutch brake when the real problem is the clutch adjustment.

    Delete the air doins and get back to the real clutch cable!

    Years ago on the old B models and early R with the air duplex it had a air assist and it would do same thing very offten. It was ok if some one owned the truck and knew how to adjust. But problem was you did not have a good feel of the free travel as in a manaul link.

  12. What is PAI's website? I really dont have a problem with the local Mack dealers service dept other than I really feel hosed down with their prices. Depending on salesman if you get shop price or retail. Now the service dept is a different story. Manager is dishonest and had to fight with them for six months to get refund on a 2 month old altenator that fried my batteries and cost me over a grand on the road. Finally got my money but sure wouldnt let them work on my truck or my lawnmower for that matter. We was in the market for 2 trucks when this went down. They cost themselves 2 sales on trucks because of this. This almost made me steer clear of Mack all together but my partner is Mack to the core so I decided I would give it a try.

    Befor you give up on mack call or pm Barry here necause he is with a mack dealer and he can and will get what you need. All parts men make mistakes as i or you but that is the normal.The guys that have a hurt look on their face when you show up for parts is were i have a problem. I worked for a mack dealer here years agoand was a go dealer. The old white motor co dealer was a den of theives here and because it was a union shop they did not have to work.

  13. I should add that there are at least four different Centrimax rotors. The E7 and early E-Techs used the 57GC2134A, identifable by the rubber hose at the base of the canister that drains oil back to the block. The later E-techs used the 57GC2187 Centrimax plus, identifable by the short height and the cover mounted from the top. The ASET AI/AMI engines originally used the 57GC2206, identifable as a taller rotor with a cream color. The ASET AC uses the 57GC2231 (I believe this is the same rotor kit that was used on the 04 MP7 engines as well), identifable as tall and black in color. The difference between the 2206 and the 2231 is the diameter of the spindle. The 2206 will physically fit the spindle for the 2231, but since the spindle is smaller for the 2231, the 2206 will not spin and is therefore not functional. The 2231 will not fit the spindle of the 2206 because the 2206 spindle is larger in diameter than the through hole of the 2231 rotor. If installing an aftermarket rotor, MAKE SURE that you get the right rotor. Fleetguard makes aftermarket rotors, but as far as I know they are all cream colored, so you really need to check. I think Baldwin also makes an interchange for the 2231, I believe it is a metal rotor, similar in appearance to the original 2134A Centrimax.

    Also if you will call PAI they can tell you who can order parts from them close to you and also go to their website and your filters will be there. Also thin k about calling another dealer and have the filter kits shiped to you. There ant much worst than a dealer that thinks you are made for them to suck all of your blood.I have worked for a dealer for years and when they hired a company to do some research on what their problem was they found that it pays to have the customer feed back call to their attenion.And i may with names feed back helps.If they ant interrested then the hell with them.

  14. Its the cab air bag lowering and raising the cab.The pump is idling off of the throdle linkage instead of the idle stop screw. If the throdle linkage was disconnected the idle would be too low. I saw this happen on a superliner years ago and had been to the dealer a few times and they kelp saying it was sucking air.On my super liner in the morning when air is down i can hold the idle to maybe 1000 and as soon as the air bag raises the cab it jumps the idle to about 1500.

  15. Some guys from here was down there 3 years ago and said they lost money on the job. They said that like most gov. jobs the money was spent stupid. Too many inspectors and middle men and no hauling. He said the inspectors was the hold up. Just goverment supid nosence and i can belive what they told us.Some of the thigs they told me was for show and tell. Like on a 20 mile haul they would be held up for more than one inspectsion for as long as 2 hrs per load.

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