mclow

If it is a viscous clutch it works off of heat.... there are no electronics to it. At least on my 94 RD690s there isnt

I have a EM7 300 in my RD690 and it runs this hot while loaded im sure its normal I have run it this way for a long time

Well my truck started knocking under load the other day. I have narrowed it down to the number 4 cylinder. According to the tag on the valve cover it was remacked in 06. My question is should I go back with original mack parts or go with a cheaper aftermarket rebuild kit like clevite or something? What is your guys' opinion and where is a good place to aquire these kits? thanks for any imput

Climbing under my truck yesterday to grease the throwout bearing and noticed "Use automatic transmission fluid for wet clutch", stamped on the side of the case. Should I be running ATF in it? The manual says to put 40 weight in it

Thank you i'll check it out

Im looking for a tach and Speedo for a RD690. It is the electronic version

Also, the crankcase is probably getting so full that the crankshaft is "whipping" the oil, aerating it causing it to lose oil pressure

I bought mine at auction and thats what happened and it smoked the engine because the previous owner used ATF in the powersteering. After I overhauled it I went back with engine oil.

Its more than likely losing powersteering fluid through the powersteering imput shaft seal on the pump and dumping fluid into the engine oil. Most guys just keep adding powersteering fluid to the reservoir thinking they have an external leak. If this is the problem it is a pretty easy fix around about 100 bucks.

cool thanks guys I think I will just pull the entire transmission to check the condition of the clutch also and possibly save a few headaches

I thought you had to pull the top to get the rear section off because the shift fork is on the synchro?

Thats ok....I hope i can pull the top cover without interfering with the cab. I might just have to pull the whole trans

Pictures would be great! I appreciate it

Yes I bought a manual but its says to remove the transmission and stand it up vertical before removing the auxillary housing. It was revised in 1999. Do you know how to make these tools to hold the countershafts?

Hi guys Im new to this forum and I had a question about my T2090 grinding from hi to low. I have heard that the syncro is the weak link in these transmissions, so is this a common problem and what should I look for if I pull the transmission?