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Posts posted by OldRedMack
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I really like my viscous fan, only comes on as much as needed so you dont always have the full power loss. As hot as it was all summer in georgia, my fan would only kick on full power maybe 3 times a day for a few seconds.
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You pressure checked the cac and hoses, but did you pressure check the intake manifold?
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I have hit 46psi with this turbo, on the 370hp tune.
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Simple answer, no.
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For what it's worth, I never had a code for a weak eup. Put new injectors in and developed a miss, still no code. Cracked fuel lines 1 at a time found the problem, changed the number 6 eup, problem went away. Never had a single code pop up.
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No I havent yet, been too busy. And also the mack dealer in Atlanta moved buildings and left the dyno behind because they never used it on the new trucks, and I havent really had time to look around and find another shop with a dyno. If anyone in BMT world knows who has a dyno in Atlanta I would love to know.
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Basically the same, but I also use Lucas oil so it's closer to 30 at idle hot. That's with napa filters.
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That's where mine is at on start up. 2007 AI engine. Been that way since I bought it. No problems in 5 years.
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On loaders and such we have "scrubbed" the coolant system with cascade dishwasher soap and had pretty good results. But that is also heavy duty steel radiators, dont know if that would work in this application.
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On 6/22/2019 at 8:13 AM, Deere Mack said:
when I took it on the last drive, I took my father in law. He's not much of an mechanic but a retired over the road trucker. He thinks it's an injector. I'm not sure now because it's worse with an overall loss of power and it seemed to have an rough idle that kind comes and goes. Pyro is still quick to hit 900 especially in higher gears and I'm sure if I were loaded it would climb back to the 1200 mark.
I have checked for leaks with soapy water but I did not pull the codes or boost. I will this morning. The noise it's making sounds like a blown exhaust gasket to me, but it's not, no exhaust or intake leaks at all.
Did you check the intake with pressure or just with soapy water?
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Georgia, no salt and the roads are in pretty good shape, so the suspension and what not isn't beat up too bad.
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Intake, exhaust and brake lash. We had a 94 that had a weak Jake, adjusted all the valves and brake lash and it got a lot better. Still not great, but definitely better.
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You can try to adjust the valves. Is it an actual Jacob's "Jake brake" or mack version "Jake break" of the time.
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If you still have the bed PM me some pics and exact measurements and I might take it off your hands.
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If I remember right, the top has basically a built in nut, just turn the bag assembly counter clockwise.
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1 hour ago, eddeere said:
I have a heat pump in my house in Ohio . I like it works good above 30 degrees then has a back up to propane . I think geo thermal is the way to . I did not put geo thermal in when I built the house five years ago as I did not know how long I was going to stay in Ohio . All the new construction around here seems to be heat pumps . My first house in Ohio had a heat pump that lasted 42 years .
We just had a whole new system put in, but we are in georgia. All the hvac guys I talked to before the install said down to 30 degrees electric was good, but below that go with the duel fuel like eddeere. Where the lp/natural gas kicks in to help. We had 2 units installed 1.5 ton for upstairs and 4 ton for downstairs, both 14 seer units. The units and all new duct work came to $11,500.
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You guys are the best! They are both mechanical engines, guess I should have added that earlier.
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EM7 300 and E7 350
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BMT to the rescue, I need the mack part numbers for pln injectors. One truck is a 94 with a 300, the other truck is a 94 with a 350. I dont want to take the old injectors out until I have the new ones ready to go in. Thank you all in advance.
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4.42 rears and a 8ll will top out at about 77-78mph at 2000-2100 rpm. That's with 11r24.5 rubber.
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The brake shoes are wore out and over-camming?
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After linking that I realized it was done on an ai engine, not an ac engine. Not sure what you can do to an ac.
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If possible, keep the studs soaked in penetrating fluid for a couple days before you try to remove the manifold.
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36 minutes ago, byrohoe said:
Not sure where to start with my questions. I have been reading everything I can find regarding how to squeak a bit more oomph from my 2006 AI427 Granite. Truck was originally a fleet asphalt hauler from Iowa. Its rigged as a Strong Industry's 7 axel super dump. GVW 80k. Hauls around 25 ton of material. Love the truck very quiet and smooth ride. I upgraded from a 1977 RL788 so needless to say its a tad better. I am acquiring the parts to make the changes Mack Technician has called for on this form. And intend to start the conversion late March. My first question Is there any special order regarding what to do first? I plan on making the changes in 3-4 steps in order to keep the truck working part time. My next question is ECM updates/ upgrades. The closet Volvo dealer is 1 1/2 hr. drive. Although they handle Mack service. They don't seem enthused in helping me with Mack stuff. So the closest Real Mack dealer is 3 1/2hr. drive through a couple mountain passes. With record snow this year I am not excited in making that trip. Neither shop would give me info over the phone regarding updates. My vin is (last 6) 697965. Hoping someone on this form could cross reference and tell me if any updates are needed. Save me from a long drive that may not be productive. Thanks in advance for any advise.
The injectors, manifold, turbo. Can all be done in one day. If you have all of them available and on site. I would reset the valves while you are at it, and the valve cover is already off.
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Replacing Eaton Autoshift with a Mack 10 or 13 speed in 01 Vision
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
Who is the dump bed manufacturer on that 97 international? Figure this thread has already gone off the rails.