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Air Start V Brake Air


Andy Wright

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Guys

Okay, this'll sound really dumb, I'm sure! On Saturday, I replaced an air line that had blown at a joiner. No probs there. However, when I went to start her, she did not seem to have enough air to turn the engine over enough. Admittedly, she has been sitting for 3 months, however she's never had a problem with the air start tank draining, I've always managed to get 3-4 shots out of it if she hasn't started straight away.

Has she leaked her air out of the open air line between my removing part of it and then replacing it? Is the air start on the same air "circuit" as the brakes?

Hoping this is why she wouldn't start! Did consider fuel draining out of the pump, but that seems to be fine and the air just didn't sound "right"!

Btw, have loosely tarped her rear end up to protect the parts of her that aren't under cover. She now looks like she's got a skirt on!

Cheers

Andy :mack1:

Whatever rubs your buddah.

The Mack E Model Registry - 103 entries
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The air start tank should have its own gauge on it, if it holds air , then the gauge should be up a round 100psi+, if not then ,you have an airleak, try the old method of a squirt bottle with a bit of dish washing liquid and water, then wet all the joints you can locate and see which ones bubble the mixture. My dog will empty out the air system and drop the airbags, but the airstart tank will hold its own , sometimes leaving the splitter in neutral will cause it to drop when the engine is off , as there must be a leak on top of the gearbox. If it is hard to start on the starter, unbolt it from the block and oil up the shaft that the gear rides on as the start sequence relies on the gear meshing with the ringgear first , then it opens up the signal line to allow the rush of air from the start tank to the starter, if the first part of the sequence is sluggish, then you will have no end of problem. At least the starter is alloy and not to heavy on the knees.!

nigel :chili:

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