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rigfire

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  1. My 1948 Mack pumper is without hubcaps. It needs all 4. Any and all help appreciated. Donny
  2. Steve, good info. Thanks for the post. Donny
  3. Please send pics, info and price to donnymac@mcclureoil.com Thanks. Donny
  4. David, Thanks for the offer. Address is P O Box 14 Midland, TX 79702 I will gladly pick up any costs. Donny
  5. Thanks for the help. Sorry for the late reply. Have been swamped at work. For the time being we have wired a ballast resistor in from of one of the coils. I am trying to find out how Mack stock wiring was configured. Donny
  6. My recently aquired S75 fire truck has dual points and coils that are fried and cooked. Way to much heat. What is the cause? Wrong coil? For a temporary fix, we wired a ballast resisitor in front of the one coil we replaced. Was a friends idea that seems to work. Did stock wiring have a ballast resistor? Donny
  7. My recently aquired S75 fire truck has dual points and coils that are fried and cooked. Way to much heat. What is the cause? Wrong coil? For a temporary fix, we wired a ballast resisitor in front of the one coil we replaced. Was a friends idea that seems to work. Did stock wiring have a ballast resistor? Donny
  8. JJ and David, Thanks for the help. I have been away not near a computer. My line is metal not rubber. Surely it must be plugged. What is its purpose? Your pic is correct. Do your motors have twin coils/distributors? Donny
  9. That is one cool looking truck you have!!!!! Good looking dogs too. Thanks for the advice. I will try your suggestions when I get home Monday. What motor do you have? Donny
  10. Mark, Thanks for the info. I posted pics in my album to hopelully show the rust areas. As compared to other B Models, why is the sleeper so prone to rust? For replacement sheet metal, could another B Model be used as donor sheet metal especially at windshield tops? I know where 3 empty cabs are junked and abandoned. Donny
  11. Thanks for the info. The ID of the line is only 1/16 to 1/32 and is direct connect between thermostat housing and water pump with no inline valve or control. David (Dwaits) has the same line but it is removed and bull plugged at both ends. Thanks. Donny
  12. I plan to spend all day tomarrow on the truck. I appreciate your help. Donny
  13. Last week the Thermodyne was running rich but fine otherwise. Today it won't fire. Motor turns over fine. New 12V battery and fire at the coil. No fire to plugs but all wires look fine. Are the points sticking? Simple trick to unstick the points? Donny
  14. Here are my rookie questions: I am about to backflush the radiator and block on my 1948 firie truck. It appears to have been long ago when last serviced. Are there 1 or 2 thermostats located in the housing between radiator and block? Is there a retail source for compatible thermostats? Is there a retail source for compatible radiator caps? And finally, what is the 1/8" metal line conencting the thermosatat housing to what I am guessing is the water pump? All help appreciated. I have a million more rookie questions. Donny
  15. To all tracking this thread: after talking to RLStroope, I met with the truck owner. Truck has a swapped out rear end and turbo added to the orriginal but now sleeved motor. Owner did all the work himself. After the work, it made one Texas/Colorado trip and was parked in 94/95 where it now sits. I tried to put representative photos in my album. I think the album works. The worst of the visible rust is shown inside and outside at the windshield top. All of you saw RLStroope posts prior to me so I am last in line. Owner wants $2000 as is. If none of you want the truck, I do and it will be my first at restoration. Please let me know by this Friday. Discovering this Forum is financially deadly but very rewarding. I spent many an oilfield day in a Mack. Now I want to play with what I once had to work and sleep in. Let me know if you want the truck. Donny
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