MidniteMechanic

How are they failing?

I believe Truck-lite.com has what your looking for. Under the technical specs & regs heading.

Phillips plugs are marked on the wire side with the color for each pin.

Yea, I forgot about that way. If theres room and your good placing hits, you can sledge on the yoke while the driveshaft is jacked up. I've gotten so used to using a u-joint puller, I've put those miserable memories out of mind.

Basically anything that moves or pivots needs lubed. Things like spring pins can be a problem if they haven't been greased properly. You may have to remove them and clean out the old dry grease.

Jack up the front of the truck to take the weight off the front axle before greasing the pins so grease gets to the wear side. Also check for wear in all the steering components before greasing.

If the slack adjusters & brake tubes don't have grease fittings in, take out the plugs & install grease fittings. You will have problems if the brakes aren't greased.

Make sure grease purges out of all points.

If your new to this, buy a good quality grease like Lucas, it will probably take several tubes and most of the day to do the job.

Assuming you removed all attaching hardware, torch the cross out and try a air hammer to push the caps out.

You will have to change the hubs. The pilots are a different diameter.

An external satelite antenna would be best. If there is no external radio antenna there is a good chance they are using the CB antenna with a splitter. I know that's how Volvo and Freightliner have theres setup.

The old owner probably didn't dump the air on the lift axle all the time when turning. The only way to fix it is replacing the rails. It will crack again along the welds.

Generally to my knowledge a greaseless wear pad can't be used with a standard kingpin. The shank of the kingpin is not long enough and if you do get it coupled it will bind.

Regarding removing the fifth wheel mounting pins, it will probably require 'heat and beat'. Only heat the ears as there are rubber upshock bushings in the saddle mounts. If the pins are really loose the head is shot.

I use caution speaking of kingpin replacement and fifth wheel work because of liability issues. A lot of companies won't touch it.

Check out this link to Holland fifth wheels to understand what your looking at.My link

Yours is probably a model 3500. The biggest problem of not releasing is the cam plate and rollers are dry or worn or tightened too much. It is a time consuming head to rebuild properly because the lock yoke requires grinding and or welding to properly fit the head.

Yes the bolt sticking out the front is to adjust for wear. There are alternate ways to adjust beside using Hollands method and tools. I can explain in an email later if your interested.

If you have the option, delete the automatic traction control. Also add parking brakes on both axles and upgrade to a Sheppard steering gear. If you haul heavy a 13 or 18 speed trans might be a better choice.

Just get some 1/8 inch steel rolled to match the tank and have it welded on. A friend just got 2 pieces rolled to repair where the straps go, cost $50. We will weld it ourselves but it should'nt cost much to have it done. Definately cheaper than a new tank or the cost of fittings and hose to try and make something else work.

Alot of times corrosion or dry parts will cause this. Remove the inner door trim to access the lock/latch assy and spray well with penetrating oil. Work the lock/latch while spraying to flush it out.

There is another new poster that comes close to this category to. I too believe they should remain silent.

Try a local spring shop, or find a Fastenal store or online, they have them in that size in grade 10.9.

Let's ask Barry, I'm sure alot of people would like access to that information.

I remember the Volvo axle that used shims. If I remember right it was a pain in the but to set up.

I agree with the above comments. However remove your engine position sensor and see if the plug is full of oil. If it is and there is no oil leak above the plug clean off the sensor end and check for damage or cracks in the epoxy coating. If you can't tell if it's cracked, smack it into the palm of your hand and then check for oil. If there is damage or oil regardless whether it tests good or not it's junk and needs to be replaced.

My Rs753LST western has that style hood. With the body lines back the hood and the pedestal mount turn signals. The westerns also had the rear hood extensions clipped to clear the step like Packers. The regular 700 series had the full extensions cast as part of the hood and the body line went overtop the radiator and the top of the hood was blank. The battery box was directly behind the hood.

The picture shown looks like they made fender extensions and put them on a western hood and mounted it on a regular 700 series. They will fit if the hinges and rear hood rests are changed. This is what I am familiar with please correct me if I am wrong.

What is your boost pressure under load?

Hey Rob, did you ever consider adding a spacer block under the spring? Even on todays new trucks they use them to level out the truck.

I also recieved 3 or 4 emails. It has happened before to.

Yes there are two thermostats in the housing. Removal is straight forward. Be sure to check the seal rings in the housing for damgage or out of place, they will cause this problem. It's best to replace them even if reusing the t-stats.

Any recap is ok. Each brand has roughly the same designs as the other. A good recapper will inspect the casing for any defects. If the casing is ok and the tread is applied correctly you will have no problems. Mostly all the tire debris you see along the road is from run flats. If a cap is going to separate it will do it in the first few miles. Brian

My '74 R753 has this sytem installed on a 4 spring Reyco. I only ever drove it about 50 miles all bobtail. I can't really say if it's any smoother or not. My plans for this truck don't include keeping it, so I might be interested in selling it. Rob email me and we can talk. Brian